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bnam

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Everything posted by bnam

  1. bnam
    Ok, that's not it. It stopped working again on my way back home. It worked all the way till the gym. An hour later it did not work -- and this time reseating/fiddling with it did not help. The Hazard works fine. When I switch the turn signal either way -- the first time I hear a click at the relay and then nothing. Bad relay or something else? Byas
  2. bnam
    Perhaps I'm knocking it loose when locking unlocking the hood.
  3. bnam
    The Flasher relay on my 74Tii has twice now popped off the mount (which grounds it) and the flasher stops working as a result. I suspect it is the vibration that's working the relay loose. How should this relay be properly mounted so that it does not come off? Any pictures? Thx, Byas
  4. bnam
    Is it getting flooded? What about the timing? If the timing is off, starting can be easier or harder. Points/gap ok? Wiring all seated properly? BTW, have you set the warm up regulator properly? It made a huge difference when I did so. I got good warm idle when I set it correctly at 2.6mm, but I did not get good non-fully-warm idle until I had adjusted hte warm up regulator piston propoerly. I've not adjusted the CO (don't have a meter yet till next week), but found that setting idle per the instructions was sufficient to have a good idle -- along with setting the warm up regulator. The regulator first needs to be set up so that the piston is even with the top surface as 68F. I've posted on an other thread of how you can do this without taking the regulator off the car. Then set the gap to 2.6mm. Then set idle and the CO screw to the default position. Then check timing and readjust idle. I think then adjust CO and readjust idle. (I've not done this yet). Then if really needed, adjust the running CO with verboten screw. If you do this, you may have to go back and reset gap to 2.6mm and start back up from there. (I have not done this yet).
  5. bnam
    The integrated gasket is what I have and it seems in pretty good condition -- was rebuilt 5-7K ago. That's why I had wondered about reusing it. Do all studs come out? I had ordered 4 new ones and am wondering if I should add 4 more to that order. I'll need to get a thread chaser. What I've read is to clean the threads with chaser and brake cleaner. Loctite the upper studs hand tight. Seal with RTV from behind? I'm assuming it will need hi-temp copper based rtv? Byas
  6. bnam
    What year is it? I have a '74
  7. bnam
    Google that question.
  8. bnam
    I had thought about that. But luckily -- took a 6mi drive last evening and no more clunking. B
  9. bnam
    A few options - - buy metric all thread from Ace or other hardware, cut off right length and cut a slot on one end with dremel - Take a long metric screw and cut off the head and cut slot like above - Use the screw without cutting off the head In all of the above stick the screw in a drill and chamfer/smooth the tip that acts against the elliptic. Byas
  10. bnam
    Post in the General section and delete this one which is in the for sale section.
  11. bnam
    The factory manual shows this shape for the bushing. Slightly different than the parts diagram. Do the new bushings look like this (the last pic)?
  12. bnam
    Thanks!! I left the bushing as is. I am a bit puzzled though. While the parts diagram shows the narrow end on top, Haynes says it should be at the bottom and the shape of the spacers #4 would support that -- the depression on the lower one (which in this case is part of the Bilstein HD black shock cover) is the narrower dia depression while the upper washer has a larger dia depression. So, not sure what caused the noise. After putting it back together the noise seems to have gone away -- though I'll want to test it with a drive to see if it returns. One possibility is that perhaps the lower mount was loose (didn't feel like that when I removed it) and now that I've tightened it perhaps it helped. Byas
  13. bnam
    I was tracking down a clunk from the rear suspension that was present since I got the car. Initially I thought it was from the zip tied exhaust, but fixing that did not solve it. I narrowed it down this morning to coming from around the rear passenger side shock and even though the nuts were tight, the top of the shock inside the trunk moved just a bit when i bounced the car. Removing the shock I found this. I believe this bushing is mounted upside down. The narrower end according to Haynes should be in the bottom. Now, how do I remove this bushing? THx, Byas
  14. bnam
    Perhaps you can try using a pair of plier to crush in the metal contact on the wire end a bit so that it goes in?
  15. bnam
    Are BMW logo ignition keys and trunk keys still available?
  16. bnam
    I'll be removing the Ansa 4-2-1 manifold on my 74Tii over the next week to install a WB02 sensor. What should I watch for? I'm thinking pre-soak/clean the studs. Are the nuts one time use or can I reuse? It has a later gasket with integrated heat shield with about 7K miles on it (since the rebuild). Can I reuse? What about at the flange between the manifold and center section? What type of gasket goes there? Byas
  17. bnam
    When I bled the new piston I installed this weekend, I too pumped for a long time and it got firmer but pumpable. I poured some more oil down into that area and kept pumping and it got to the point where I could not pump it any more. I think it needs to get that firm.
  18. bnam
    Battery+ive to starter solenoid. Battery -ive to a ground location in the trunk -- you'll need to make one Engine block (near the the bracket that is in front of the starter) to the ground point that is next to the relays on the driver side inner fender. There should be a red wire that connects from starter solenoid to the alternator. There should be another red wire that connects from the same location on the alternator to the wiring harness. In my car I have yet another that runs from this location to the Air con relay on the pass side fender. There should be a ground wire between the alternator and the engine block at the alternator mount. Byas
  19. bnam
    I just went thru this process last weekend. I first started with going cylinder by cylinder at TDC and doing both Ex and In at the same time. I then happened to check a couple of valves as they were more directly at the back of the cam and noticed that they were looser than what I had set them to. So I went thru again and this time adjusted when the follower was ~180deg from the cam peak. Byas
  20. bnam
    Thanks! This (all 3 replies) helped. I get it now...
  21. bnam
    Why not? Fuel amount is controlled by 2 variables -- fuel pressure and duration of injector opening. I'm increasing one of those -- why would that not increase the fuel injected? What am I missing? Byas
  22. bnam
    Has anyone tried or considered removing the fuel pressure regulator in the return nozzle of the Kfish pump and replacing with a straight thru outlet and instead running an external adjustable fuel pressure regulator - set up so that at cruise/low throttle openings it provides 28psi, but at wider throttle openings it provides enrichment - say 30psi? This could be modulated by plenum vacuum. My Tii came with a 292cam so thinking about options to provide additional fuel at higher RPMs Byas
  23. bnam
    It is not. Mine had a substantial flat spot. Ended up buying a good used throttle body as these seem to be avail only with the throttle body and not separately. I've wondered though about repairing the shaft. Either weld on a blob and girdin it down (if this can be done without distorting the shaft), or using something like JB weld. If the linkages are all in good shape -- including the cup bushing at the bottom, the sideways stress on the eccentric should be low and a JB weld should hold. I will try that on my spare.
  24. bnam
    I'm getting between 21 and 22 on mixed highway and suburban driving in my 74 Tii (recently refreshed, tuned) -- but each of the tank fulls that I've measured also included quite a bit of idling time as I've adjusted and readjusted points, timing, etc. Will see how this next tank fares, but the upcoming week does not look good here weatherwise in Sac or in the Bay area. Byas
  25. bnam
    I've been using the wave washer from the metric section of my local Ace hardware -- grade 8.8 I believe. Are these the same as the BMW wave washers? The wave washers seem to last just one use as they are flattened after that -- so am planning to buy a bunch more but want to know which are the best to get or if they are all the same. Thx, Byas
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