bnam
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Everything posted by bnam
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Late style OEM Nose section with frame mount (nt)
bnam replied to tii bimmer's topic in Miscellaneous
Those 2 sheet pieces that are lying in front. Can you show where they go? Thx! B -
Pete, I wonder if what you experienced is because the head bolts have enough force to compress the head gasket while the 2 little bolts on the cover don't have enough force to compress the gasket the same amount. Instead, if the cover was first attached to the head before the head bolts were tightened down, and then then tighten head and cover together -- the parts should stay even then. Just a guess... Byas
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My understanding -- the gap is to accommodate thermal linear expansion of the valve stem. Remember, these gaps are being set cold. If you set it closer, there will be insufficient space for expansion and valve stem will distort or excess wear will occur. If it is set for too large a gap, it valve duration will be affected as the valve will open later and close earlier. Exhaust valve gaps tend to be larger as they run hotter and expand more. Byas
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What is a wipe wrt cam? Thx! B
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How is the carpet? Any tears? Do you have a close up on the color? Byas
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Could they be to compensate for A/Cs (more common on US cars) and later on for the heavy US bumper and shocks?
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8mm ID x 13mm OD I believe. Max does also list a 6mmx11mm without reference to whether it was for a different year or not. B
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That looks like the cover is 1-2mm LOWER than the head. Perhaps they took off more than they should? I would have them redo it. The lower portion between the cover and the block is a common spot for leaks. Looks like this would make it a nightmare. While your head is off, find another cover and make them redo it flush. B
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Exactly. B
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That's what I've seen as well -- a cover for the upper hole, but yet to see a cover for the lower hole. My assumption was that the upper hole cover was to protect the battery terminals from water/moisture as the terminals were in close proximity, while the lower hole was under the battery and uncovered. Byas
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Cable or strap from the block to the body. Same locations as when battery is in front --except instead of the Y-strap, you just use a direct one. B
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Good info. Thanks!! I will pull the plugs again after I run the car for a bit and do a closer look vs. this info. Byas
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I did. Wondering what those holes are for. B
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Nice!!!
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IMO it does not really matter. Even BMW uses a cable on newer cars. I don't buy the argument that it makes corrosion visible -- well the positive cable is a cable and could "Hide" corrosion just as well. The positive cable is also connected to the engine and has to handle the expansion, motion, etc. As do many other cables.
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The first one (which was not too oily) was on right and tight. I felt 2,3,4 were not as snug. Was wondering if the oily threads were a consequence. Got them all evenly snug now. The car came with a 292cam which I heard mixed opinions about on a Tii -- the majority say they will run lean at higher rpm with not enough fuel. So, on the lookout for whether that is the case or not. Will get a WB02 at some point. B
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These are the plugs I put in after I tuned the Kfish and have ~500miles on them. Here's a close up of #1. The others look the same. Thanks!! Byas
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Finally got to replacing the tensioner. Also replaced the front cover gaskets. But, what's the deal with these holes on the head gasket at the most inopportune spot -- right at the joint? No matter how much I cleaned, there was still some oil coming out of this hole above or seeping out of the joint. So not sure if the new gaskets with some sealant at the corners will hold up. I also checked the valve clearances. I measured (intake/exhaust) the following: #1: 0.014"/0.003" #2: 0.010/0.004 #3: 0.005/0.008 #4: 0.008/0.004 I reset them all to 0.006 except #4 intake which I got to 0.007". The problem was that the allen key I was using was hitting the cylhead wall on that #4 intake and I couldn't tighten any further unless I shortened the lower part of the L. I had to do each valve roughly 3 times to get it right as I finally figured out the right location for the cams. Byas
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Drivers side. Will call you. Thx!
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That's actually (mostly by design). The wheel arch is lower at the back. If you measure down from the upper trim line, the gap from trim line to top of arch is 1" more at the back than in front. So, if you maintain that 1" difference between front and rear the car and the trimline will be flat. If you make the gap the same, the car will be slightly nose down. B
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Went through the wiring and found the culprit -- for reason I cannot yet fathom, the switched wire that is provided for the radio circuit (at the hazard switch) was spliced with an always powered circuit -- so it was feeding voltage backwards through the fuse (#6) and many circuits that should have been on switched voltage were always powered. Fixing this fixed the original problem. My wipers and flashers which used to work even when the ignition was off now only work when ignition is on. Byas
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I use the pulley in front -- no the mark is fairly steady. I don't use the ball - (a) cause car came with lightened flywheel and not sure if it has the ball, and ( I tried to get the light over the ball, but the snorkle of the intake gets in the way. And, removing that inner snorkle is a pain -- have to take the airbox out etc. And even if I removed that, the return fuel hose is in the way, so I'd have to move that as well -- so gave up. When it was at 3-4deg ATDC @ idle (25@2700), car still ran well but starting was a bit harder and there was a bit of a run on when I turned it off. I've now set it to about 3deg BTDC -- which should be about 31@2700. Car starts and idles well and starts and turns off easily. Will drive at this setting for a while. I have a 292 cam on the car. I'll first install a WB02 and tune before deciding to recurve the distributor. Byas
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what is the offset on the rims? -
CD, this is on my 74Tii. Jim, I'll check out Advance Distributors. Will go back to the Torres/Kreeger recipe for now. Will also check out the tip in the advance limiter. Thanks! Byas
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Today I tried setting the advance per the spec (25deg at 2700 rpm) -- previously I had set it using the "Secret sauce" method of ~6-7deg at idle. When I set it to the 25@2700 spec, at idles I am retarded a few degrees ATDC. Is this an indication of weak springs? This is reportedly a new distributor (and looks it). Where can I get better/correct springs for this distributor? It's a new/remanufactured Tii unit. Thx! B
