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bnam

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Everything posted by bnam

  1. bnam
    ---messed up wiring? I recently realized that the reverse lights on my car come on when the tranny is in reverse -- even when the ignition is off. Is that by design? I drove my car to work this week and left the car in reverse as I pulled back into a parking slot and left it like that without realizing I was still in reverse. Luckily I had a new battery and when I started the car in the evening it started right up. When I got home I noticed that the left side reverse light had burnt out. So tonight I removed the lens to replace the bulb. I found that the plastic above the bulb had melted and is now fused to the bulb. @&%^% Looking up the wiring diagram -- the reverse light and the horn are connected to Fuse 6 which is powered by the ignition switch. I would have expected this to be on only when the ignition is on. Apparently not -- or I have some miswiring near the ignition. Will have to check tomorrow. Byas
  2. bnam
    Mirror is cracked in half. B
  3. bnam
    Does this allow you to log rpm vs. AF ratio? I'd like a kit which allows me to log those 2 parameters. http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/kits.php I wonder if a gauge can be added to this kit? Byas
  4. bnam
    Mike, Was your article on just the outside mirror or did you cover the inside rear view mirror as well? I have a broken one I'd like to repair -- pains me to throw away part which are or soon will be NLA for something that seems do-able. B
  5. bnam
    Bimmernut, Good to hear you've got it running well. In my (recent and limited) experience with the Kfish system, I've come to believe that the most critical element of the linkage system is to keep the throttle and pump in synch. To this end -- the primary items would be (a) check the throttle eccentric cam shaft for wear -- where it goes thru the bushing on the outside of the throttle body ( check you have a good bushing cup at the bottom of the intermediate shaft (this is the shaft that is connected tot he above throttle eccentric shaft) -- replace as needed. © replace the connecting linkage or the ends (these ends are available separately and there is a left and right hand threaded items on each end) from the fuel pump to the throttle eccentric. On the remaining 2 linkage rods I would prioritize: (a) new bushings for the pivot shafts -- these are cheap and easy to fix ( check and adjust the long linkage length. I believe these 2 linkages are a little bit more forgiving on ball joint play as all that causes is slightly more take up play -- so replace as your budget allows. BTW, which O2 sensor did you go with? I'd like to install one to tune my mixture. My car has a 292 like yours does. So far I've not seen any ill effects from it. But, since I've not driven a regular Tii (or any other '02) I'm not a good judge of the difference. Byas
  6. bnam
    With good condition vinyl -- no speaker or other cuts. Don't care about backing board. Thanks! Byas
  7. bnam
    I had sent an email on the washer bottle+pump a few days ago but have nto heard back. I'll try again, but if you have problems, please email me. THanks! BYas
  8. bnam
    I may have been mistaken or something has changed... The last time I had measured the stance had been about 4-5 weeks ago - a few weeks after I got the car. That was when I noticed it was slightly off. Today I measured again, this time with pics.. Back right Back left Front left Front right It sits all square. I bounced it around and remeasured but it was pretty much the same -- rears @ 23.5 and fronts at 24.25. The only thing I had done in the interim wrt to suspension was replace the 10yr old tires, clean out the suspension and underbody and put 5-600 miles on the car. Perhaps some bushings or shocks that were a bit sticky got freed up with the cleaning and/or usage? One more item off the snag list. B
  9. bnam
    Happy Birthday! B
  10. bnam
    Thx. But, should the adjustment be even? The spacers are both 2-dot. Springs don't appear to be cut. Control arms look clean - though the left side one was replaced with a non-tii so something did happen in the past. The subframe strap on the left is slightly kinked (but just the lip rather than the entire strap). The shocks were replaced with Bilstein HDs at some point -- don't know if all the parts were reinstalled. Byas
  11. bnam
    I finally got to tackling a loose central console yesterday. I took apart the console and guess what I find under the gear shift console? A brand new foam donut placed around the shifter, but above the tunnel. I had noticed that I was missing the foam underneath and had bought a new one but was not looking forward to taking apart the shifter etc to install the donut. While looking at the opening from above, there seemed enough space to install the donut from above and sure enough -- with a plastic pry bar, I was able to squeeze the foam and install it from above. Now, I can check and adjust the foam from below next time I am playing with the driveshaft adjustment (should be soon). Anyway -- onto my question -- while taking apart the console, I found I was missing this spacer wedge on one side. Looking at the BEHR install & parts manual -- they list a spacer tube but not a wedge. So, wondering how to get a part number for this and where to get it. Thx, Byas
  12. bnam
    I'm trying to figure out what's causing my ar to sit 1/2" lower on the drivers side left and consequently 1/2" higher on front right. One thing I had noticed that I'd like to eliminate is the rear sway bar setting. The left side is adjusted higher than the right. Are these meant to be adjusted evenly? Left rear (see 3 of threads below the lock nuts) Right rear (fewer threads) Thx! Byas
  13. bnam
    The outer shocks don't appear hit or compressed. The black goop was in addition to the black rubber sleeve that help fit round peg in square hole. So, looks like I need to just look for the center shock. If the goop was factory -- what can I use to reproduce? Thanks! Byas
  14. bnam
    (nt)
  15. bnam
    Does this product work with a WB O2 sensor? Or only with narrow band? Thx! Byas
  16. bnam
    BTW, I figured out what was "wrong" with the side accordions you gave me that we could not figure out that evening -- they were both for the rear -- and a set. Thanks! Byas
  17. bnam
    Call one of the Kfish experts. I called both Fairchild and Gus about my Kfish question and they were very helpful. Byas
  18. bnam
    Pulled off the rear bumper for the first time as it was sitting at a slight angle. I found the center shock was not connected to the bumper and sat about an inch short of the bumper. I could not pull it out -- I have to devise a way to get it out. Am I correct in assuming the center shock is a bit longer? I need to look for one. I do have a good side shock to trade. The rubber inserts on all three shocks were "sealed" in with black goop. Is that factory or a PO? I also need one of the metal plates for the accordion -- only one side had one on. I was able to clean it all up and get it properly aligned. Now need to track down those 2 parts and get some tips on pulling the center shock out. Byas
  19. bnam
    The SVBMWCCA organized a brake bleeding tech session in Auburn yesterday at Ryan's BMW shop. Since I've been a member only for the past 2 months, I decided to join them, meet local members, get my brakes bled and while waiting for my turn, use the shop equipment to drain my old reservoir and swap in a new reservoir and blue hoses. Was a great day for a drive -- sunny, clear, mid 60s. Instead of I80, I took the narrow two lane, winding, hilly, and scenic Salmon Falls road. It hits Hwy 49 near Rattlesnake Bar. Hwy 49 drops down at a steep gradient to cross the American river before the steep climb back up to Auburn. Initially I was stuck behind a slow Prius so stopped to take few pics. I thought I'd be early if I was there by 930, but I was one of the last and had to wait a while. There were about 20 cars including a really nice 635CSi that was the last manual tranny car sent to the US. Mine was the only '02. There was an NK being restored at the shop. Had not seen one before. Is the engine always this low or was this one modified? Returned home the same route with firmer pedals. Byas
  20. bnam
    Will try that today. But, just want to confirm -- this is the pic of it as it is now. It should go down further, right? Byas
  21. bnam
    This is an old thread, but came up first page on site search. I have the same situation on the drivers side mount. The locating nub is only about half way into the slot. Any additional tip other than the above on how to get it lower? Should I loosen the tranny mount also? On the passenger side there is no gap between the mount and the stop. How do I adjust it for the 3mm? Thanks! Byas
  22. bnam
    Will the wiper switch from this work on a 74? Does this have the 3 speed switch? If yes, I'm interested. B
  23. bnam
    I've not done this before on this car... but, can you not leave the sway bar disconnected at the trailing arm end (but mounted at the subframe), hook up the subframe and then and hook the sway bar up last? B
  24. bnam
    Is the distance between the output flange and the mounting ear on the back of the gearbox exactly the same for the 3 gearboxes (4spd, 5CR and 5OD)? My thought is that IF they were the same distance apart and if the engine GB/DS were all tilted at a slight angle (exaggeraged above), then the mount on the 5CR would need to be LOWER not higher than the 4spd. If the metric for the 5CR is higher (at 80mm) -- could it be because the relative distance between the mounting ear and output flange is different for the 5CR vs the 4spd? And, how does the 5OD compare to the other 2. Or, have I got it all wrong? Byas
  25. bnam
    How do you check whether the DS is square to output flange? I'd like to check on mine. I did raise the tranny to ~80mm. I can't say whether that caused the DS to not be square -- I may not have looked closely enough. My CB has no washers lowering it. Byas
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