bnam

Ah, that's what I missed... B

Jim, I'm confused. The third pic in your first posting showed a 1/4" gap from you fan hub (5-blade I believe) to the radiator. Your above note states you have 1/2" clearance. Assuming it is 1/4" clearance, I see the following measurements -- Radiator to firewall is same distance -- 26" Your engine is 1/4" back vs. mine Yet I have 1/4" more hub to radiator clearance. I can't explain the 1/2" (1/4"+1/4") discrepancy. I probably missed something. Byas

Jim, I just noticed -- you have a a later radiator -- see the mounting tabs for the shroud. Those came only on 75 or 76 I believe. Could the radiator be thicker? The Tii radiator is just at or under 1 5/8" at the core section. Byas

The difference in length between the CR and OD gearboxes is 11mm. Assuming the slope of the gearbox is 10degrees (could be less than that), the difference in ht is less than 2mm (1.9mm). So perhaps it needs 1 washer less. So the 80mm metric is probably 78 or 79 instead. B

Measurements on my car. Nose damage at some point. Drive shaft too long. From radiator cap, 26" Firewall is contoured -- so where you position the tape can throw off the reading by about 3/8" Measuring from a lower point on the firewall, I get just over 12" to the roundel center - -so my engine is about 1/4 forward of yours... My radiator is a bit askew with the closer point being the pass side where there is 3/8" clearance to fan while the center is about 1/2" clearance at blade and at hub. Radiator gap seems similar. Couple more reference points possibly for engine location My pass side mount has no gap (again consistent with being a tad forward of your engine. Does this look like there was some welding done? And, while my engine seems to be similarly located to yours, I was able to get the Airbox aligned to throttle body. I think you should be able to as well. And, gap at the top of the radiator is about 1/2" So, it puzzles me that despite the radiator being the same distance from the firewall @ 26 inches, AND my engine being a tad forward of yours, it has more clearance to the radiator. Byas

Thanks for the inputs and corrections! B

Hmm... seems reasonably understandable to me. #1 -- says Short block does not include other parts like ignition, distributor, flywheel, cooling system etc. #2 says it was manufactured to meet the factory standards

My car has no heat shields other than the exhaust gasket cum heat shield. I'd like to try to get some heat shields. After searching a bit, I found the following were likely on the car: 1. Ex Manifold heat shield 2. Idler heat shield 3. Center bearing heat shield 2 more that I found limited references to * Guibo heat shield * Fuel tank heat shield Were these on the 74 Tiis? Any that I've missed? Thx! B

No, ( will not create more HP. At every RPM PME is higher on (a). Since Torque is proportional to PME, this would mean that (a) has higher torque at every comparable RPM than ( HP = 2*pi*RPM*Torque/4500 (metric) --> so if at every RPM torque is higher in (a), so will HP. That's why it's puzzling to see that (a) flows better or equal to ( at every point in the RPM. Byas

Will post some from my car this evening. B

Joe, Thanks for the info. One question -- both (a) and ( have the same pairing and are 4-2-1, with the only difference being that ( has equal length headers while (a) does not -- soI was surprised to see that (a) has a better curve than (. Is it because it has the more direct path for the gases, while ( is more curved? Byas

I thought the AlpinA was paired differently -- cylinders 4&1 and 2&3 together. While this one is 4&2 and 1&3. B

Found this in another thread today. Original source was CD The top header has 4&2 paired -- I think I may have found the origin of my header. Anyone have anything good to say about this Ansa header? I had installed Ansa on a Fiat spider many years ago and I remember it went together very easily and hung/fit well. Thx, B

Well, the rightful honor should go to the Wikipedia for this. B

Another test would be to put your palm over the airbox intakes and block off the flow and see what happens to the idle. B

Jim, With the 2 throttle cams -- the main cam and the fine tuning/CO cam -- almost completely closed (which indicates that the throttle valve is completely closed) if you are still idling well, it feels like you have extra air coming in somehow. The first thing that comes to mind is the air hose from the warm up regulator. What if you pinched it shut? Or removed it and plugged the hole in the throttle body when warm. Byas

Ahh -- got it -- they all end up together. 4-1 not 4-2-1. Did you by any chance offer a 4-2-1 with the 1&2 and 4&2 pairing? My car's PO attributed the header to you. B

Sorry you have mis-read my post -- I said your shorty headers have the "correct" pairing, but was wondering if why your stage 2 headers have a different pairing. http://www.iemotorsport.com/bmw/2002-exhaust/02stephead1.html Thx! Byas

I found http://www.alpinabmw2002.com/2010/03/schrick-bmw-m10-headers.html had a couple of pics of Shrick copies of Alpina bundle of snakes. Though the first set has pairing similar to mine, while the second is 4/1 + 2/3 pairing. If the 4/1 & 2/3 pairing is better for torque, why is the IE stage 2 paired as 2/1 & 4/3? Is that for peak hp? Thx! B

PO had installed a 4-2-1 header on my 74Tii -- allegedly from IE. But, I could not find a matching pic on their website. The header on mine has cylinders 1&3 and 4&2 paired together. IE site says (wrt shorty header) that 4&1 and 2&3 is the correct pairing. But, their stage 2 header shows 1&2 and 3&4 pairing. I initially thought I had the stage 2 header until I noticed the diff in the pairing (unless IE changed their design sometime). So, which pairing is right and which one is worst? Thanks! Byas

Ha -- I'd wondered that myself so your question made me look it up. Apparently we all misspell it -- it should be correctly spelled GIUBO and pronounced as "jew-boh" It originates from Italian contraction of the word GIUNTO which means joint or coupling and the last name of the engineer who first patented the flex coupling Antonio Boschi. Boschi started up a company to make flex couplings called Giubo Spa. BTW, the misspelled word is often pronounced gee-bo or guy-bo -- at least that's what I was told. Byas

What I refer to as the piston is the part the rises out of the regulator as it warms up -- the one with the slot for the tool and the grub screw as seen on pic above. The shaft is the threaded rod that goes thru this piston and on which the the cone/hat and lock nut are affixed. B

Update on warm up regulator -- My warm up regulator was recessed -- sitting 2.5mm below @65F when it should be flat at 68F. A recessed regulator piston will allow air thru the regulator for a longer duration. I suspected this to be the cause of the high idle of ~2500 that occurs when the temp is in the upper part of the blue and in the lower part of the white range of the gauge -- engine is warm enough that the excess air + fuel was causing it to rev up. This was really annoying as after driving for a few miles, I'd be sitting at a stop light with my engine revving. I planned to adjust the regulator and thought i would need to take it out of the car. But, after playing with the spare regulator, I figured I could do the adjustment without taking the regulator out. Warmed up the car so that the piston was at its max rise of ~7mm. Used a racheting box wrench on the lock nut above the cone to turn the shaft till the grub screw was pointed out as in pic below (though this is a pic from my spare) Made a mark on the Cone as reference point. Inserted allen key into grub screw and loosened it and then used the allen key to prevent the piston from rotating while I used the ratcheting box wrench to turn the shaft 2.5 turns (since I was down 2.5mm). Made sure height of the piston was 10mm. Locked the grub screw and let it cool. Once it cooled I reset the eccentric screw to 2.6mm gap while holding piston with the tool. And that solved the problem. Now it idles correctly at all temperatures.

El Dorado Hills, CA

Yes, it was converted by the PO. B