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Here's the Guibo on my car The bolts are all in the same direction. Can this be corrected without taking the Driveshaft & Guibo off? How? I had been told that the drive shaft was too long and it was hard to get the Guibo back on there. It could be seen that the Guibo was not perfectly flat, but every other bolt was pushed in. Initially pushed in over 1/8", I've got it down to just around 1/16" now (loosened diff). I thought I could get it out some more, but I could not get the diff to move anymore -- perhaps at the end of its travel. I should have checked, but was in a hurry. Byas

I need to ID my struts on my Tii. I did not have this pic handy while working on the car today and I measured A instead of C. A looks like 3.25 to 3.5". Based on the pics below -- where A seems similar in dimension to C, I would say this is a Tii strut. The number on the strut tube was: 102127-4250 BOGE 11024431 BUT, the cap on the outside is flat not round. So -- what do I have? That is what I was looking for -- thanks! DJM

Will try the razor blade approach as well -- don't see too much down side. Byas

Thanks -- didn't know about the sleeve. Does the thin nut go directly over this or is there a flat washer in between? B

#6 looks almost like a grommet -- with that slot in the middle. Does it fit like a grommet in the wiper hole opening thru which the shaft sits? Or does it just fit under that hole? Byas

I bought a couple of dampers for the wiper linkage as shown in the parts diag, but I am not exactly sure where it goes and the parts diag (#6) is not clear on this. Also, where does #7 (NLA) go? Anyone know? Thx!

Here's what the roof and trunk of my car look like thanks to a cheapo paint job done about 8 years ago. Any tips on how I can improve the looks to tide me thru until I get to a repaint? I'm thinking of sanding with 180 then 400 and so on and then rubbing compound etc. Is 180 too much grit -- should I start at 400? Or not enough? Thanks! Byas

If you are replacing the speedo as well as the cable as you say above, why bother with the old one? The new one should have the needle in the right position. OTOH -- if you are reusing your existing speedo and the needle on that is indexed incorrectly, I believe it can be pulled off and reinstalled. B

Preval looks like a pump spray bottle. How does it achieve good atomization? Looks like they have an airbrush as well. Any difference vs. other airbrushes? Why is Preval different and/or better than rattlecan? Interested... Thanks! Byas

Before you take apart the regulator -- take the regulator off and check to see if the coolant passages are clear. Put the regulator in boiling water and see if it does rise to 10mm. But, before you do that -- so some more checks: 1. When the engine is warm does the eccentric screw bottom out? If it does not, it would indicate there is continuing fuel enrichment. Loosen the nut over the cone on the regulator to make sure the screw bottoms out when hot. This takes the fuel enrichment out. Do you still have the issue? 2. Again, when engine is warm, clamp off air hose that connects the warmup regulator to the bottom of the throttle body. This takes the warm up circuit out of play. Any change? I think the regulator can be taken apart, but start with the above. Byas

I too think that running problem above 3500 is not related to the regulator. Anyhoo... here're a couple of pics I took today on adjusting the regulator. These are on my spare which sat about 1 to 1.5mm below the threaded rim at 68F. I heated it up in some water The allen screw is visible. There are 3 ramps/slots along the edge of this piston. Air is let in thru these slots. As the piston rises these slots get smaller (as they are ramped) and let in less air. Once the piston rises about 8 or 9 mm the slots are closed. So, if the piston sits low, then it lets in air for longer. Loosen the allen screw by half a turn. Now the piston will rotate around the central threaded shaft. I turned it out little over a turn -- each turn is 1mm. Almost flush now. Actually when I measured inside the regulator it was closer to 71. At 68 it was completely flush. Byas

I have a similar situation wrt to the warm up regulator. When your regulator is cold is the piston that extends somewhat below the rim of the regulator? In my case it is about 2.5mm below and extends about 7mm above for about 9-10mm of total travel. When your car is fully warm is the cone fully lifted off the eccentric arm below the cone? If it is, then your warm running problem is probably not due to the warm up regulator. Once the cone has lifted off the arm and the screw on the other end of eccentric has hit regulator body -- there is no fuel enrichment happening. So your problem of not revving above 3500 could be caused by something else. BTW, have you set that "verboten" screw gap at 2.6mm as per the manual? If it is more than 2.6, then the enrichment happens for a longer time and if it is less it happens for a less. The regulator is adjustable. I intend to try adjusting it this weekend and will take some pics. At 68F the regulator piston is supposed to be flush with the threaded rim. If it is below then the regulator takes longer to close. There is a 3mm allen screw that needs to be loosened and then the piston that moves can be rotated around the threaded shaft and raised or lowered. My car runs well when warm. It idles well when cold. But in between - when the temp gauge needle is at the top of the blue (cold section) or the bottom of the white (warm section), the regulator is still open and letting air in and causing my car to idle too high -- at 2500rpm. Then when it warms up a little bit more, the regulator closes and idle drops down to 900rpm after that and runs well. Byas

Perfect!! Thanks! B

Put the screwdriver thru the hole in which the piston and spring go or are you saying to remove the upper front cover and put screwdriver down -- or... Thx, Byas

Great, thanks!! Had held off on this thinking that parts under the lower cover need to be changed as well. Byas

PO had installed a mechanical tensioner on my car. What parts do I need and what procedure don I need to follow to revert back to the original? Can I just unscrew the mechanical tensioner and insert the hydraulic one or do changes have to be made under the lower timing cover? Thx, Byas

Perhaps C.d.'s units are off -- 16 sq.mm vs. 16mm dia?

Jeff, you were right -- there was room for adjustment. This is another reason why I really value forums like this -- fresh set of eyes to see things that are right in front of me, but I don't see. While adjusting it just now I realized there is so much play (between bracket and box, the angle of the bracket itself, and even the mounts on the body can bend fore and aft) that the alignment between the airbox and throttle body is not at all a reliable indicator of frame damage/misalignment. A quick 15min and it is aligned to within an 1/8". Could have got it fully straight, but it required me to pull the box off again but it was story time for the kids. Byas

Thx! That offset clip holds the hose at a much more gradual/natural curve than the shorter ones. This one was a leftover from Fiat Spider I restored. The FI spiders used these clamps to hold (coincidentally) the cold start harness to the intake plenum. Byas

Yes, seems I incorrectly made an assumption that engine could be moved. As far as I can tell, this is the original Tii body. It did have an accident in its past and frame straightening was done (discovered the 2004 rcpts in the glove box). Car tracks straight etc so repair was functionally correct. But, perhaps the subframe was bent. It would be good to have some reference dimensions from unmolested cars to see where mine is off. Jim -- yes I saw pics of your car and assumed that that was how all Tiis were until I saw another one where the airbox was aligned. Byas

Check plugs, points, dwell, and timing. Check your throttle linkage for sloppiness. Fix. Make sure your throttle and Injection pump are in synch -- download manual from Tii registry site. Check your warmup regulator valve and check the gap as per the Kfish manual. Set idle and CO screws per manual. Adjust timing and idle. Byas

I pulled out the new rubber washer that was on the car. The new one is the smaller 30mm dia x 6.2mm thick. The original metal washer is 29.2mm dia. And I've used a thin 32mm dia Ace h/w rubber washer on top. So a 1" fender washer as shown above works well with the smaller dia new rubber washers. Byas

First the "problems": * Schatz and Krum had commented that the driveshaft was possibly of the wrong length as it was hard to get back on when they replaced the seals. I did loosen the diff and move it back 1/8" - -but not sure if that was enough. S&K had recommended shortening the drive shaft. * Then faq member Conkitchen commented that my engine and airbox were misaligned. Checking other pics I've seen Tiis where airbox boot and throttle body were in alignment and others where they are not aligned straight. The mis alignment on mine is about 5/16" Is this because the engine is moved a bit forward? Should the airbox and throttle body be straight on? If so, my driveshaft problem becomes worse. But, if I'm going to correct it I should get all these variables correct -- center the engine/tranny and center the diff before measuring for the drive shaft. How does one move the engine back? Remove driveshaft, Loosen the engine and tranny mount bolts and lift the engine up a bit -- but how to push it backwards? What else do I need to check? Thanks! Byas