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bnam

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Everything posted by bnam

  1. bnam
    I understand your point. The reason I am concerned that the gap may have narrowed... Wile the shift shaft position is fixed vs. outputshaft/guibo etc, it has just a tad of play. This shaft is cantilevered out and connected to the shifter thru the linkage. While pushing up on the tranny, the shifter does not move at all, so the linkage between the shifter and shifter rod on the tranny has just a little bit more downward pressure on the cantilevered end and IF there is play on the shift rod, it could get just a bit closer. The shift rod on my car has a large gouge on the shifter rod (in line with the flange/guibo location -- not sure if there perhaps was a 6 bolt guibo on before. But even with the 8bolt, there is not more thana few mm of gap. Sorry for hijack -- will stop. My posting was to confirm that the U bracket requires a couple of washer to push the tranny back up per the 80mm spec. folks...you can push up the tranny as far as you want and YOU WILL NEVER CHANGE THE GAP BETWEEN THE SHIFT LINKAGE SHAFT AND THE GUIBO! i see this comment alot. think about it. the shift linkage shaft is part of the tranny. so is the guibo. they aint gonna get closer together unless you crush the entire transmission or bend the linkage shaft.
  2. bnam
    Following this thread closely as I too have the U bracket from Rob. I built a DIY measuring tool to see how my set up compares to the 80mm as shown in the factory instructions. This was the tool I built to clear the exhaust. The standoff on the frames are 45mm and then I locked the 2 nuts on the central threaded bolt to be at 125mm above the aluminum L-bar. This pic taken before I locked down the central reference ht. This blurry pic shows that the top of the flat bar is about one nut lower than 80 (about 75 or 76mm vs 80). I put in 2 flat washers which total about 5mm. I had to put it on top of the rubber mount between the mount and the gearbox. I've got it back on now. I am concerned that pushing it up has narrowed the gap a bit between the shift linkage shaft and the guibo. Byas
  3. bnam
    Top and bottom are the fender washer and rubber washer from Ace hardware. Middle is old BMW rubber washer.
  4. bnam
    On my 74, I cannot make the lock "pop" by turning the key. Turning the key only locks/unlocks it and then you have the press the button in manually to "pop" the trunk. Isn't that how it should be? B
  5. bnam
    Just measured the washers on my '74. The ones on my air cleaner are: Flat washer 30mm OD, ~6mmID New BMW rubber washers ~33mm OD, 6mmID, 5mm thick. Fender washer from Ace == 1 1/4" (~31.5mm) 1/4" ID will work. Rubber washers of the similar size as BMW but thinner (~3mm) are also avail at ACE. Byas
  6. bnam
    Nice find. It does look like it has had its nose replaced though. So may not be truly unmolested.
  7. bnam
    I just picked up the blue hoses from Rob 2002Haus. These are blue with the yellow pinstripe. VW also used Blue hoses and are avail from VW Bug/Bus places.
  8. bnam
    My recollection is 36mm OD. I had picked up a couple of washers from Ace hardware that I thought was close but have not had a chance to compare. Can confirm later today. Byas
  9. bnam
    My 74tii has only 2 wires and a 2 wire sender.
  10. bnam
    Center to center.
  11. bnam
    I assumed CDs note was meant to be tongue-in-cheek -- these are not Citroen chevrons. WEGU is high quality OEM supplier and those Chevrons are what they put on their own branded flaps which are often as desirable (sometimes more). They are OEM supplier for MB and perhaps even for BMW. While i appreciate your opinion, i do have to say i disagree with all your points. I can see how they look similar to a Citroen logo, but i tend to look at them from a point of view similar to Bueller's with the arrow signs in the twisties. As far as them being hard to sell? If you look at many of the positive comments in this thread, it does seem to me that people (not including yourself) do actually like them. Not to mention someone has already offered to buy them at the top of this thread, and i haven't even mentioned selling, and dont plan to! I bought these because they are somewhat unique and i like them, had i wanted black ones i would have bought a pair of black ones like all the somewhat common ones you tend to see from time to time, so why would i paint them black? so what's a body to do? keep them the way they are and call it a day!
  12. bnam
    As I go through the electrical system looking to clean up grounds, I hoped to find a list of ground locations. Search did not yield anything so I'd like to start a list that more experienced members can add to. Engine Bay (this is based on 74Tii): 1. Between relays and brake fluid reservoir (harness and engine ground) 2. On block near alternator (for wire from alternator) 3. On firewall about a 18" from driver side fender 4. At starting relay bracket 5. At mount screws on both side lights 6. At AC relay bracket Cabin: Haven't looked yet -- hoping to to get some pointers Trunk: Near driver side tail light Byas
  13. bnam
    I've seen that pattern before. They're same as these made by Wegu for VW. So probably a Wegu one for the 2002. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1115025
  14. bnam
    Which part is the "ramp" -- is it perhaps something inside the switch? This was my first look at the switch -- perhaps I was lucky that it was only the spring mount that broke. Works perfectly now. B
  15. bnam
    Can we have an additional "Reply" button at the very end of the thread? Sometimes after reading a long posting it is annoying to have to scroll back up to the header of the post to find the reply button. Thx! Byas
  16. bnam
    I just completed a repair on my 74 turn signal and thought I'd post the process in case it helps others. The situation with the turn signal was that it would cancel in one direction, but not the other. Pulling out the the switch, I found that one of the springs was no longer connected to the cancellation pin as it mounting point had broken off The upper spring was still connected -- see the unbroken mounting point. I unhooked this spring on the casing end while I performed the next few steps. The tools I used: Using the pin vise and small drill bits I drilled a hole next to the broken mounting point. I started with a #78drill and drilled out with a #72 (0.025"). Here's the hole I drilled. I then bent the inner end of the spring to be more L shaped vs. C shaped to make it easy to hook it back into this hole. With a little creative use of the tools -- I had it back in. Now hook back the outer ends of both springs And that's it. I sprayed in some electrical contact cleaner. A few drops of lubricant on the pivoting and sliding surfaces and back on the car. Regards, Byas
  17. bnam
    Good idea -- I did not think of that. Will rent one and then see what I like/don't like. Thx! B
  18. bnam
    The MC H4 lighting pattern is the same as the pattern for cars. They ship with 50/60w bulbs. I'm sure higher output bulbs would brighten things up. But, the pattern itself is no different from my ecode Hellas or ecode bosch that I've had on other cars. B
  19. bnam
    Till now I've been washing and scrubbing the underside of my 74Tii with a garden hose and elbow grease. Thinking I should get a powerwasher. Never had one before, so thought I'd ask the members here on recommendations. I'd like to stay under $200, but am flexible somewhat. Thx, Byas
  20. bnam
    Is the rubbing with the tie rod end common with 195 size tires on this rim? In 185 -- Isn't 185/65 a better size (from a rolling dia)? Did you recommend 185/60 because it is more common? I'd still like to know if 175/70 would fit or hear from anyone who has installed 175/70. B
  21. bnam
    If you are looking at H4s -- BusDepot has a good deal on Bosch H4s -- $45 for pair. That was the best I could find for namebrand H4s. B
  22. bnam
    I'm looking at Kumho Solus KH16 175/70R14 tires to put on my 14x6 bottlecaps. Currently I have 8 yr old Warrior 195/60R14 tires. The front tire slight rubs the tie-rod ends -- not all the time, but perhaps on turns or something. So I'd like to go narrower to give more clearance as well as to reduce effort needed with the fast ratio steering box. The 175/70R14 on some sites is shown as fitting a 6"wide rim, but on the Tire-rack they recommend it only up to 5.5". So wondering if this size is ok for the 6" rim? Thanks! Byas
  23. bnam

    n/t

    bnam replied to shipm_8's topic in Miscellaneous

    Is this version the same as the PDF posted in the Under Construction forum or is it newer? Does this manual have additional sections vs. that? Thanks! Byas
  24. bnam
    It's for a 74. need the Driver's side rear trailing arm. Prefer one from the CA/AZ/TX as I am concerned about rust inside. Thx! Byas
  25. bnam
    Have you ruled out an intermittent short causing your ignition to cut out intermittently? Byas
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