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bnam

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Everything posted by bnam

  1. bnam
    Look -- before you do anything with that screw first make sure you've gone through the Kfish manual and set it up correctly. I bought a Tii that would not run properly and now have it running very well. B
  2. bnam
    The 74Tii has a resistor wire built into the harness (has clear plastic jacket -- which looks like a speaker cable) -- so you don't need a ballast resistor. B
  3. bnam
    Check the grounds -- battery negative to ground and engine block to ground.
  4. bnam
    I set to 7deg BTDC at idle. Per the Kfish manual it should be between 4 and 9 here (2 to 7 per Haynes). I believe this is the Keith Kreeger/Rob Torres secret sauce recipe as well. I have a lightened flywheel (IE?) and not sure it has a ball (or one at the right spot). The appendix of the Kfish manual says that the 74Tii should be timed at 25deg at 2700rpm. I wondered why BMW suggested timing at the flywheel ball vs. the pulley and at the higher rpm. Searching some more - the answer seems to be: At the flywheel because the larger diameter enables more accuracy, and at 2700 rpm as this will check that the advance mechanism is working and not hindered by dried up grease etc. I used the idle approach since I wasn't sure the flywheel had a ball or one in the right location and did not have someone to hold the engine speed at 2700. Since I have a newish distributor, I was hoping that would be ok. But, this weekend I will have my wife help me and I'll check the advance curve. Byas
  5. bnam
    I measure about 2.5mm of recess when cold and an extension to 7mm when hot. So that gets close. I checked points gap and set timing at 7deg BTDC at ~950-1000. Need to check CO next, but will need an WB02 sensor for that. Car is running well now. No more huge (or any) surging at idle. I do still wonder if the warm up regulator is a bit weak -- as in not closing soon enough. There was a posting on another thread that Bill has posted a tip on de-grunging the warm up regulator, but I could not find that posting so a repost or a link would be appreciated. And finally -- installed a new w=1.393 speedo (from W&N) this evening. Looking forward to taking the car for a longer drive this weekend. Byas
  6. bnam
    Thanks! Used the front pulley for timing. Now I wonder why bother with the back "ball" when the front pulley is easier -- is there some advantage? Used the red wire at alternator and the car ground. Used the "secret sauce" aka what's listed in the Haynes manual. Byas
  7. bnam
    Conkitchen -- I've been meaning to come out and see you. Now have my 74 running again -- will try this Fri or Sat. Can you email me your street # -- or is your warehouse the only one on 34th between Folsom and 50 (not really familiar with that part of the city)? Byas
  8. bnam
    Called WorldUPh this afternoon and they said they only sell sets. Is there a specific person I could ask for? Will also check with Esty -- did not know she did upholstery. Of course Dave does upholstery as well, but again only full rear set. B
  9. bnam
    Not an old sac02 guy, but a new 02 guy in Sac area... Would be up for a meet and drive. Byas
  10. bnam
    Aahh! Ok, next stupid question -- searched on this, but saw so many threads that my head spins--- Does the Red coil (silver with red label & part number ending in 030) on a 74Tii with stock points and distributor require a ballast resistor in addition to the stock resistor wire? The FAQ says... "On earlier '02s with a ceramic-block ballast resistor, there is a relay near the firewall that does the bypassing based on a signal from the circuit that energizes the starter solenoid. On '74 and later, they simplified the design and eliminated the relay, instead supplying battery voltage directly to the coil via a second, smaller spade terminal on the starter solenoid (which is itself a relay anyway). Also on '74 and later, the obvious ceramic resistor was replaced by a sneaky, "special" resistance wire that runs in the harness from somewhere over the engine to the coil's positive terminal - it has clear insualtion and a moulded marker at the coil end with the resistance value on it (by now those are usually just a blob of crispy rubber). All resistors for all years were 1.8ohms, according to the factory manual." But speaking to Rob Torres this AM -- he mentioned that the red coil also needs a ballast in addition to the wire. Thanks! Byas
  11. bnam
    Thanks! Ok, so this vendor must have been mistaken or mis-remembered that my car was a 74. Since it's just the seating surface on the bottom piece the needs to be replaced, I was hoping to find either a vendor who would sell just the bottom or someone on the board who may have replaced just the backrest and has the bottom piece available. Will also see what it would take to get the perforated material and have a local person replace the panel. Byas
  12. bnam
    I have a 74Tii with the Bosch red coil (silver with red label). While looking for a point to hook up timing lights, I checked the voltages at the coil while it was running. The stud labeled 1 had about 7V and the one labeled 15 had about 10-11V. Is this what I should expect? Byas
  13. bnam
    The next step in rehabilitating my 74Tii is to check the dwell and timing. I've replaced the bosch platinum plugs with W7DC gapped properly. (BTW, what do you recommend for a gapping tool?). And, after resetting the Kfish warm up regulator gap and linkages, hoses, etc -- car is running well without surging (so far). The PO had installed a lightened flywheel (IE?) -- will this have the timing mark? Do the pulleys have a TDC mark? The battery is in the trunk. The timing light I bought from HF has coiled leads which are not too long. Where should I hook it up to? Starter? Byas
  14. bnam
    I'm looking for pics of the original rear seat pattern for my 74. This is what I have in the car, but one of the suppliers tells me that the top panel was probably a replacement and that it should have been perforated. Thanks! Byas
  15. bnam
    Made the DIY KF tool for the warm up regulatro this AM. Checked the regulator and found that it was off. Cold, the gap was only 1mm. So adjusted it to 2.6mm. Followed the instruction on the tuna can -- set the idle screw till it just touched and the mixture screw until it just touched + half turn. Car started up well and cold idled at 1300 then up to about 1700 and warm idle dropped to about 900. I'm assuming this is warm enough as it leads me to my next question/problem. The warm up regulator is supposed to extend 10mm when warm. I measured only 6mm. Is it not warm enough? Or do I have a bad regulator? I measured it with a long copper wire which I bent to shape and calibrated its end to show 6, 8, and 10mm. Even so, this it the best I've had the car running so far. So, pretty thrilled. Kris - -nice work on the engine. Is the braided hose from W&U different from a braided fuel hose? (Looking forward to the game this afternoon). Byas
  16. bnam
    Bill, The clip I got was the upper one in this pic and I intially installed it with the opening upwards -- but then it did not quite align with the slight cut on the edge of the bracket. I turned it upside down (hose inserted from below) and it aligns perfectly. Yes, the tuna can spring is in. Byas
  17. bnam
    I pulled off the rear wheels for the first time on my new 74 today. While it looks like a tire was rubbing on the shock, it must have been something that was on there earlier -- the bottlecap wheel and tires don't show any sign of rubbing. Is there a way to ID this bilstein -- is it a HD or a sport? While the passenger side trailing arm is boxed like it should be for a Tii, the drivers side one is not How hard is it to get a Tii trailing arm? Is the rear subframe the same between Tii and non-Tii? Thx, Byas
  18. bnam
    Got the bracket on now... New 85mm linkage and new ball ends on the long one. New hoses, clips, filters, painted the airbox -- all back together now. Tomorrow -- need to set the idle etc.
  19. bnam
    Bill, I just went thru this process today. One question on the alignment between the eccentric shaft and the intermediate shaft. These two should be aligned co-axially -- otherwise there will be binding as they turn. However, the connection between the 2 is not really designed to keep it co-axial -- if the intermediate shaft upper end was a cylindrical instead of a ball it would have been better to ensure coaxial alignment. I test fitted the intermediate and eccentric shaft and found that they were not quite straight and had to tweak it to get it straight. Since it needs to be aligned why did they use a ball at the upper end of the intermediate shaft? Byas
  20. bnam
    While restoring my 71VW vert I used 3M #75 repositionable spray to mount the plastic moisture barrier. This allowed my to stretch it to a flat surface to cut it according to the template, and after installation on the door if I needed to access the lock or other components, it lifted up easy but stuck right back. There's also a glue stick instead of the spray. http://www.staples.com/3M-Scotch-Restickable-Glue-Stick-20-oz/product_510818 It would be good if you or any other DIYer of these boards would create a template/measurements of the door cards for DIYers that follow. Byas
  21. bnam
    Yes, just bought that along with a bunch of other parts from Rob. I may have installed it upside down if I compare with Jim's pic. Byas
  22. bnam
    Bill -- thanks for the tip -- while it was ok, I changed the position a bit to ensure more clearance. Jim -- Thanks -- yes, there was interference when I checked. I heated up the cap and pushed it all the way in. Got clearance now.
  23. bnam
    I found this rubber cap at Ace hardware -- hopefully it will hold up for a while.
  24. bnam
    I think I get it. Will add those brackets to the list of parts to hunt down. It was slow going today, but I got it mostly done. I missed your point about the return valve barb getting in the way of #1 runner and discovered it after I had installed the plenum, throttle, and #4. Had to take it all apart and restart. What worked without removing that barb was as follows (for reference of anyone else doing this): 0. Install vent hose on valve cover 1. Install throttle on plenum. 2. Install #1 runner loosely 3. Install plenum onto #1 runner loosely, then install the plenum brackets 4. Install #4 runner, tighten up installed pieces, and throttle bracket. 5. Install intermediate shaft 6. Install #2 runner. 7. Install vac hose from vent hose to throttle 8. Install #3 runner. 9. Install fuel return line onto the pump and clip to throttle bracket Does the arrow on this point to the booster or to the valve cover? Byas
  25. bnam
    Here's a pic without the hose showing the connecting points lining up. Just installed it a few hours ago.
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