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Thanks Bill, Jim! Jim -- on one of your pics I noticed what looks like a bracket between the pump and the block. I'm missing that in mine. I could not quite figure out which part it was on the Parts diag. Do you have a pic or part number for that bracket. Jim's Mine Thx, Byas

I plan to reassemble the intake with new gaskets, hoses, linkage, bushings, etc. So a couple of things to get me through 1. I'm assuming it's ok to not use sealant on the intake gaskets (got new ones -- and surface are well cleaned) 2. What are the torque specs for intake runner to manifold, runner to plenum, and throttle body to plenum? 3. I'm putting back more parts than it had on -- since some things were missing. The order I think I will use is> plenum and #1 and #4 runners and brackets to manifold; then do the hose under plenum, then #2 runner, then throttle body and linkages, then #3 runner. Thanks! Byas

Sorry for hijack... Stone -- is there a way I could get in touch with you? (really wish this forum had PM enabled).

Perhaps a 74 is different, but it needed no wire. The metal part on the tranny end of the cable has a circumferential groove. You insert the cable into the hole in the tranny and there is a bolt to the right that you tighten. The end of the bold protrudes into the grooved portion of the cable end and holds it in place. Byas

I've never done (or had done) a cam swap. Apart from the cost of a standard cam -- any guidance on what I can expect (timewise -- and I can translate into $) for an experienced shop to swap out the cam? Just trying to figure out what I need to budget. Thx, Byas

It is frustrating to read this thread when the repliers (while intending to be helpful) don't seem to have really read the question being asked.

I ended up just chemically cleaning and then painting. First coat I used was the high temp aluminum which is a bit too glossy. Will go to dull aluminum. Still, I cleaned the insides of the runners with rags and degreasers till there was no black stuff inside -- all clean now and easier to handle. Have the plenum cleaned up as well, will paint at the end of the week along with the throttle body which I should get back tomorrow from Rob. B

Yes, I had my throttle looked at by an expert and am replacing with a good one.

To switch back to regular cam, what parts would I need to get? Just a stock cam? Was the cam specific to a Tii or same as Carb version? I am currently renewing all the Kfish parts. Pump was already rebuilt. Got new bushings in place plus a few new ball ends. Linkages adjusted to the correct length. New intermediate shaft. Good used throttle to replace my worn throttle. Rebuilt clamp. Will gasket match the runners and plenum. New gaskets, hoses, clamps, etc. Resynch the pump and throttle. Replacing the current K&N filter set up with the original airbox and hoses. Running a relatively new Tii distributor (though not the 74-only one with Retard). Wiring is good. Will check points gap, dwell, sparkplugs etc. Will hopefully get all these done this weekend. Then enjoy the car, while I investigate what it take to get back to stock cam. While replacing the cam will also plan to go back to stock tensioner vs. the racing tensioner that's on there now. And renew the gaskets to hopefully cure a leak from the bottom of the timing top cover. Byas

I've read a bit about megasquirt, but on this car I am interested in sticking to originality. B

I also noted that my runners had dimples on the upper flange to indicate position. Cylinder 1, Runner marked #1 had one dimple, Cyl 2, Runner marked 2 had 2 dimples, Cyl 3, Runner marked 4 had 3 dimples, and Cyl 4 which had the second #1 runner had 4 dimples. Was that a factory marking or done by a mechanic at some point? B

The 74 Tii that I bought came with an IE 292 cam and IE triple Y header and 9.5:1 pistons + heavy duty double valve springs. It ran poorly, but Schatz & Krum has tuned it so it idles ok and when I took the slop out of the linkage with new bushings, etc it ran much better. From what I've been able to search so far, the majority opinion is that the Tii K-fish works best with the stock cam as it can run rich at idle and lean above 3500 with a 292. I understand the options are to put in a Wes INgram linkage, remap the cone, or go stock. My K-fish was rebuilt at some point by an expert in Redding CA (forget his name right now). I will try to see if he remapped the unit -- though I think the rebuild was done before the cam. It's got me thinking about going back to stock. Is it relatively easy to swap back to stock? Engine currently has about 5-7K miles after the cams were put in. What about the header? Is the header any benefit with a stock cam? Thx, Byas

Is this HobieDavie bracket needed for the Sanden compressor? Or, can I repurpose the existing bracket.

Would the Sanden rotary compressor work with the rest of the Behr system (particularly what's in the cabin -- as I don't want to yank those)?

Ok, I got the airbox for my Tii. Now I need to buy the right hoses. In the meantime, I've got the intake apart for cleaning and to install missing parts, etc. I got a new hose that goes from the cylinder head to the airbox. It has a hole in it where parts 3&4 in the pic below go. Where can I get these parts -- or how can I make some substitutes? And, what is the size of braided hose for the fuel line from the filter to the pump and pump to starting injector? I've been thru the Max parts list, but I'm not finding it -- I probably looked right past it. Thx!

Thanks for weighing, I was thinking about how heavy the compressor is when I picked it up 2 weeks ago from the PO. Is it possible to marry a more modern compressor with the BEHR system? Byas

CD -- your 1,2,3,4 comment -- is that for Ti? Or are the Tii aluminum runners numbered? They are otherwise identical. Byas

The 4 runners seem dimensionally identical and have the same part number, but my numbers also have another number 1 or 2 or 3 or 4 on them. Do those indicate position? Actually, I have 1,2,4, and another 1 instead of a 3. Any tips on cleaning up the aluminum parts? On a Fiat Spider I had restored, I had painted the plenum and it had held up quite well. Thx, Byas

Last time I was at Stu's shop there was an 02 there getting an m20 swap. B

i still don't have a clue & it's still broken...but i do know that i'm getting power from the brown/yellow wire to the sending unit...i noticed something unusual this afternoon when messing with it though....it still pegs to the full position when i turn on the ignition with the ground wire disconnected from the sending unit... can anyone explain why that may be happening or how it's possible My thoughts: The Br-Ge wire is a switched ground wire -- with the tank sensor being the "variable switch" -- at full tank there is low resistance so it is fully grounded, draws the most amps and pegs the needle which needs the higher current to go to full scale reading. At low fuel levels, resistance is high, current is low, and gauge should read low. If you unplug the brown (ground) wire at the sensor, and the gauge still reads full, then that is not caused by a bad sensor unit. One possibility is that the Br-Ge wire is grounding out somewhere allowing current to flow thru the gauge coil even when Br wire is unplugged at the sensor (which should have ungrounded the Br-Ge wire). You can test for that by disconnecting the round connector behind the instruments and then connecting an ohmmeter between one end of Br-Ge wire and the body. If there is no grounding, then you've isolated the problem to the instrument panel. If the problem is in the gauge, I would look for a short or misire somewhere. My thought is that an open circuit would cut off the current flow and not move the needle, so I'd look for something that is allowing current flow thru the coil even when the Br-Ge wire is in open circuit. BTW, I have a tested good sending unit (if your car is a non-Tii) I can loan you if you'd like to try it before you use the new one. If by sleeve housing you mean the plastic housing around the bottom part of the sensor, it is held on by a small nut at the bottom. Perhaps your existing sender can be repaired by replacing that (if it measures correctly on resistance reading). Byas

I keep forgetting to read the subject line on the replies -- and start reading only the main body. Seems like lot more use of it on this forum than on others I've been on. Will get used to it. B

CD, The 4.5 that you mention above -- is that the backspace, the nominal wheel width or the actual wheel width? B

I'm a new owner of an 02 myself, but have owned and restored other cars before. Based on what you've stated about your situation, I'd say that taking an 8K loan to buy this car is IMO not a monetarily prudent decision. It is an old car and there will be times when it is not drivable. Parts cost can add up. There is always a surprise factor in buying an old used car. There is the investment in tools. The occasional need to take to a mech for things you can't do yourself. Then there is the loan payments. I'd suggest you start by building up your tools and experience/knowledge on your existing car and start saving on the side. Byas

What year will this work on?