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bnam

Solex
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Everything posted by bnam

  1. I need the interior dome light -- from a non-sunroof car.
  2. The buckets themselves are not handed for RHT vs. LHT (or LHD vs. RHD respectively). But, the US buckets are side specific -- left vs. right -- though they are not marked. The angle with which the "cup" is welded to the frame to make up the bucket is different for the 2 sides. (see a thread by me from last week or so) Byas
  3. Stripped, primered, and painted the headlight buckets a satin black and installed flat face Bosch H4 headlamps from for $45/pair and German Flosser 55/60W bulbs for $4/each from Bus Depot. Mounted them this evening. Need to fine tune the beams -- they have a nice __/ __/ pattern -- but they look good already Byas
  4. Are the ball joints on A left and right hand threaded or are they both regular? Also, #1 in the second diagram -- what's the correct length for that? B
  5. It was rattle can paint. The parts had sat in my garage for ~2-3hours after I had painted them but were still just a tad tacky. So, it put it for 10min in the oven at min setting of 170F. And let it sit in there after I turned off the oven at 10min. Hopefully I did not mess it up. Parts look ok right now. And no smell in the oven either. Will let it sit overnight. Byas
  6. Was redoing my block grounding and wiring so had to remove the accelerator linkage mount that's just below it. While I had it off, I measure the long linkage and found it be at 296mm, while the shorter one was correct at 85mm. I tried to shorten it and got it to 289 perhaps a shade over. Could not get it any shorter as one side had bottomed out and I could not get the other side nut to loosen and I was scratching the ball joint while holding it with pliers. I had already ordered 2 ball joint from Max. In case I am not able to get the current stubborn end off (any tips), can I get just a rod? What a difference correcting the length made. It had been running well before, but the throttle response was laggy. Now much improved. This along the the new pedal, bushing, and linkage bushings has taken out all the slop and the feels much better. Byas
  7. When I got the car 3 weeks ago, it was already set up with the battery in the trunk. It was wired with a 0 gauge red cable to the starter, a 0 guage black cable routed from the block (and as I recently found out) -- thru a hole in the bottom of the pedal box under the carpet, thru the back seat wall to the battery, and just a 10Ga wire to ground the block to the body. Today I replaced the 10Ga ground with a 4Ga ground to the ground point near the relays. This grounding point seems weak and flexes as I tighten. Is this the Factory point for grounding the block? I removed the 0 ga negative cable that went thru the cabin and put a 2Ga negative cable grounded in the trunk. I plan to replace the positive cable with the E30 cable and distribution block. What would a good point be for the E30 distribution block. I have a 74Tii, but don't yet have the air filter housing on so not sure if the firewall next to the timer relay will have sufficient clearance. Would like to hear from other Tii owners on where they've mounted the distribution block. THx! Byas
  8. THinking of "baking" some small parts that I painted in our kitchen oven at 170 or 200F. Any danger?
  9. The BMW wire sizes on the electrical diag are in mm2 I believe -- my interpretation is based on the listing in REalOEM being by mm2.
  10. Yes, I have the 11/74 US owners supplement. Page 12 -- the fuse listing has a mix of 5A, 8A, and 16A fuses, while other references on the FAQ here including pics of stickers you've posted show the 74-on cars only had 8A and 16A fuses. Wondering why?
  11. Bob, I'm familiar with those links. That was not the point of my post. I'm wondering if there is a version of the 74 manual that has the correct information or if all have incorrect info. Byas
  12. Your VIII 73 manual -- what Tii wiring diag does it have? Also, is the fuse layout show 5A fuses (the 74 one only had 8A or 16A). Byas
  13. No, just a pic of the boy cutting out pictures of BMWs, roundel, etc with a caption "Daddy said I xxxxx" Can you also check the print date on the back cover? Thanks! Byas
  14. I recently bought an owners manual for my 74 Tii from a fellow FAQer. It was not quite what I expected though as it has a few oddities and I want to get help on it: * It does not depict the big bumper in the handbook or the US supplement * It does show one pic of the square tail light, but most pics are of the roundie * The fuse layout is the incorrect early version 12 fuse layout, not the version that is correct for 74-76 cars * The non-Tii wiring diagram shows a square light * But the Tii wiring diagram is the earlier one with the round light -- it is even marked 114Tii/71 (assuming that it refers to Model 71) * Both wiring diagrams are for the Euro version and there is no US version So, what's the deal with this -- is this how the 74 manual was? Was there no correct version? I emailed the seller thinking I had been sent a 73 version, but now I see couple of references to the squarelights. But, bummed it does not have 2 things I was looking ot have -- the correct fuse and wiring layouts for the Tii. Byas
  15. Do you have an interior light from a non-sunroof car? Speedometer from a '76 (w=1.39 marking on the back)? wiper switch with intermittent? My email is on the header. Thx! Byas
  16. (reposting as I posted by mistake in the for sale forum) I've checked a couple of cable design sources and 4Ga cable is rated to 300A over 16ft. That seems plenty for a relocating battery to trunk (assuming normal usage). I currently have 0 gage cable that I don't like. Was thinking when I rewire the car and add a distribution block in front, would go with a narrower gage wire. Would like to hear from an expert in this area. B
  17. I've checked a couple of cable design sources and 4Ga cable is rated to 300A over 16ft. That seems plenty for a relocating battery to trunk (assuming normal usage). I currently have 0 gage cable that I don't like. Was thinking when I rewire the car and add a distribution block in front, would go with a narrower gage wire. Would like to hear from an expert in this area. B
  18. I think his posting was for a later car 73 or 74(?)- on. Perhaps your's is an earlier version?
  19. Sorry for the confusion -- I was referring to what I thought was the BMW name for the interior color -- Dunkel Blau which I translated (perhaps incorrectly) as Navy Blue. The carpet I have is similar or same as 02Les's. Thx
  20. 02Les was the one who mentioned that his 76 had dark blue carpet. Picture was posted by him a few replies above.
  21. BTW, how do you get to the 2 little ball thingies that the accelerator pedal attaches to? Is there a pre-cut slot or holes for it?
  22. That does look good. Do you have a pic of that shows the Gray carpet as well as the Blue Vinyl door panel or seats?
  23. Since it was originally a moulded set and I don't want to go that way, I think I'm just going to bag the idea of trying to match the 2 remaining pieces and just pick a good color to go with the Navy interior. Now, the questions are should I go light or dark, what will make it too monochromatic, etc. Will do some more searching for interior pics and then give you a call to get your opinion as well. Thanks B
  24. Thanks for the info on the molded carpet being original. Based on the limited reading I've done thus far I had thought molded carpets started in '75. Thx!
  25. My car has the Navy Blue interior -- with the 2 original (I think) kick panel pieces still in good condition and a PO added once piece set that I'd like to replace. So, I'd like to get a new set that matches the original closely so I can retain those 2 pieces. Unfortunately Esty does not provide samples, so hoping someone here might have bought a blue set and could comment/provide pics on how closely it matched the original. Thanks! Byas
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