Doug Riparetti

The 1st shot is a house that I just completed the roof on in Pacific Grove Ca, the house was built in "1892".

The other shots were just down the road in Pacific Grove along the ocean

@Spike; You're going to "Rocky Point", COOL

I know, this is not "02" related. I sold my 1973 "02" back in 1989, and went circle track racing, raced mostly asphalt, but did some dirt racing too. I spent 20-years running circle track, decided to get back into the "02's".

Here's carrying the left front for ya; Ocean Speedway, Watsonville Ca, 2008

8.5" wide ET25 205/45/17's on the rear, 7" wide ET25 195/45/17's on the front, with rolled lips, no pulling was needed

Finished the power door lock/power window installation today, cut-out new door cards and completed the transfer. Door panels are back on, everything is functioning well.

 I struggled with the door actuators not having the power to unlock/lock. I sprayed the door mechanism with a graphite lube,  it was still binding up. I thought it had to do with how the rod from the actuator was attached to the arm for the door lock. I decided to weld an extension onto the existing arm, drill a hole through a bolt, put a nut on it, on run the actuator rod through it. After all the, still binding up, sprayed the door lock mechanism with WD-40, works PERFECT now. Back sore, but that's behind me now.

Next;

5-speed conversion (still waiting on the driveline from "IE", hoping to get it this week)

Replace front passenger side floor pan (rust)

Install front swaybar

Lower seats

Install rear spoiler

Install power trunk release

Off ebay;

Spal Universal Electric Power Window Kit                               $129.95

Spal 3 Rocker 5 Wire Switch Kit Door LockPower Windows   $44.75

Napa Autp Parts  (3) 40a 5 Post Relay part # AR272              $17.87ea

Napa Auto Parts  (2) 25a inline fuse part #782-3127               $6.17ea

Napa Auto Parts  (3) 5 Post Relay Sockets part #?                 $14.95ea                                $

The ET's are 25. All I did was roll the lips flat, I did not pull on the quarter panels. And there's still room between the tire and the lip.

I did complete the power window wiring today, I did struggle for about an hour an a half. My buddy looked at it and figured it out in less than 5-minutes of his time, bad ground. It's the little things that can piss one off. Lesson learned 

Phase 1; 195/45/17's with 7" wide rims for the front, 205/45/17's with 8.5" rims for the rear is complete

Phase 2; Wiring for the power windows, power door locks and power trunk release will be completed tomorrow

Phase 3; 5-speed conversion will be begin when I receive my driveline back from Ireland Engineering, should be here by the middle of next week

I put 17 x 8.5 on the rear with 205/45's. For the fronts, I have 17 x 7 with 195/45's. The 195/45's will be in on Wednesday, I'll post some photos later

I forgot the photo of the front

Just mounted on the rears, a set of ESM-003SL wheels, 17 x 8.5 (ET25), with 205/45's. They rubbed, and would not clear. Rolled the fenders, PERFECT, no rub's, looks COOL (IMO)

The 17 x 8.5's would not work up front, going to put on a set of 17 x 7, with 195/45's

I like my sun roof too

There is a "76" sun roof car at a junk yard in Watsonville, Diaz Auto Wreckers. I was there this morning, I bought the center consul out of it

Here's some photos that I got

I live In Seaside, (the town bordering Monterey), give me a call, (831-262-2853), been here my whole life, I can give some pointers on drives and food. On Thursdays, there is a car gathering on Carmel Valley Road, called "Baja Cantina", lots of cool cars, a band, and GREAT food

Doug

A roofing contractor on the Monterey Peninsula

17 Mile Drive in Pebble Beach Ca

I have the opportunity to pick up a 1997 automatic M3 for $2500, wrecked on right side. black interior, runs great, well maintained, mod suspension, air induction and cooling. Can anything be used on a "02"? The front seats may work with some custom mounts but are kinda worn. Is there a market for parting this thing out? I've never delt with a newer Bimmer like these

Thanks

I'm telling you, START with the headlight switch before you start chasing wires

I had a problem of blowing the #8 fuse, (the dash lights, right rear tail light, and the right front maker stopped working), replaced the headlight switch, cured my problems. Found one at the junk yard for 10 bucks

Thanks Jeremy

Nice, do you have a # for Coyote Supplies?

Thanks,

Doug

I replaced the headlight switch that I picked up at a junk yard for 10 bucks, that cured the #8 fuse blowing problem, (gauge cluster lights, right rear taillight and right front parking light functioning PERFECT)

I just got mine in;

I live off Highway 1 near Monterey Ca. I'm always cruising this "Coastal" Highway

"Beamin Highway 1"

Found the problem, sending unit went bad, found one at a junk yard for 20 bucks, and it WORKS.

Also bought a headlight switch from the same car for 10 bucks, cured my #8 fuse blowing problem that has been troubling me for the past couple of months. My electrical issues are OVER (for now).

Also installed my "vanity" plates, (I live off of Highway 1 here in Cali)