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buckweber

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  1. buckweber
    i ,messed with it some and got the cold injector to work manually. It is pouring rain so I will give it a shot tomorrow. The car idles fine and when in neutral Revs freely with no issues. is there an electronic ignition distributor that that can replace the existing. It appears that soemone may nave changed tou the points distributor as when I went to purchase a rotor and cap the cap recommended for the 74 does not fit. The model number says it came from a 68. When I replaced the rotror, cap, points and condensor the car wouldn't run. I put all the old stuff back in as it was in pretty good shape and the car cranked right up. Thanks to all for the help as I don't have the cash available to take it to a shop. I will keep banging on it.
  2. buckweber
    The car does eventually get up to speed and picks up to a higher RPM. It just stumbles over time to get there. A previous owner did hot wire the cold start injector to a switch for some reason but it doesn't have power. I will look at that and then try what jireland2002 suggests.
  3. buckweber
    I am struggling with the timing. It appears to be in time utilizing the crank pully and indicator on timing change cover. However, I do not see the ball on the flywheel as indicated in some of the documents. I will work through it again as I am thinking I may be doing it wrong. I did take off the valve cover and at tom dead center I do see a white line on the flywheel. not sure if it is the ball or not. I am old and vision isn't what it used to be.
  4. buckweber
    Thanks for all the responses: More Info: -pulled gas tank and had it treated at a radiator shop. -replaced screen on pickup in gas tank. -replaced all soft and hard gas lines from tank to the kugelfisher -upgraded fuel pump as recommended on another site. (I believe a 3 series pump) -removed and cleaned all fuel injectors.
  5. buckweber
    1974TII with fuel injection hasn't run in 15 years. I got it running after a year and a half. Car idles fine. Car will not wrap up and bogs down when the throttle is mashed in all gears. Most articles in forum troubleshoot carburated cars. Is there any links to how I can troubleshoot a fuel injected car. Any help would be most appreciated
  6. buckweber
    Beautiful!!!! Thank you
  7. buckweber
    It is a1974 Tii. I have the diagram. From real OEM. 23/17. The lower shifter arm (part 10) is installed and held in by lock ring #9. I can't tell whether ball cups #19 are already installed under clip#9 . I think #20, 19, 19, 18, 17, are in the sleeve on part #8 (shifting arm). I assume the the remaining parts are place on the lower shift arm and part 11 slides over it. Does part 14 rubber ring slide all the way down to the ball? It is a very tight fit if so. For the life of me I can't figure out where circlip #13 goes. There is no slot that it would clip into i am obviously lost
  8. buckweber
    When I bought the car the stick lever was laying in the floor board. All other parts missing . I ordered the spacer, springs , caps, etc.. I can't figure out how it goes together. If anybody has instructions it would be a huge help Thanks Buck
  9. buckweber

    buckweber

    buckweber posted a Community Map marker in Members

  10. buckweber
    Thank you for the pictures. I need to know how this spring lines up when it is installed. Is it on the windshield side or toward the front of the car?
  11. buckweber
    I removed the hood release bar from the cowl months ago and now when it is time to reinstall it I don't recall how the spring on the bar is to be positioned when putting it back in. There are no pictures or notations regarding this in the manual. Any assistance would be most appreciated.
  12. buckweber
    Gas tank return leaks from the fitting. It appears that the is a metal seat/washer that seats into the Kugelfisher. Is there supposed to be an O ring as well? What can I do to fix the leak
  13. buckweber
    I relieved the shock by drilling a hole and the fluid came out. Shock will only compress if I hit it with a sledge. Very tiny increments. What am I doing wrong?
  14. buckweber
    Do I need the resevoir
  15. buckweber
    Original fuel pump is shot. Can't afford a new TII pump. Read that a 5 series and/or 3 Series fuel pump will work. Need to visit junk yard to find a replacement. Is there specific models, years that I need to look for. Also.... The original reserve canister is no longer with the car. Is that needed or can I go with just a pump? Any help would be most appreciated.
  16. buckweber
    I looked at the wiring diagram and then the car. The main battery terminal is hooked up to the starter. The starter does turn over. The other post with the nut on it has nothing connected to it There are two smaller connectors the one on top of the main battery feed has a white wire connected to it via a slide clip. The bottom slide connector has a black wire attached to it. I tried tracing both back and they go into the main wiring loom and then lost in the great black snake of wire. I assume one of the wires goes to terminal 12 on the fuse box. I have no idea what the black wire does. Based on the wiring diagram there is an additional wire that isn't on the drawing. Bottom line is what terminal do I terminate the black/red wire from coil to?
  17. buckweber
    you both rock. Thank you
  18. buckweber
    Need Help. 1974 TII: Car has not run since 1995 The ignition wiringing is all hacked up and I do not have power to the coil when ignition is in the on position or cranking position. Car does turn over. First picture is the wire terminating directly to the + side of the coil. There is no resistor as I have seen in some documentation. The connector has 2 wires. A red/black and a gold (Yellow) The red/ black wire combine into shrink wrap with a black wire. The red/black is cutoff at the other end and doesn't terminate to anything The black wire Y's off and there is a connector on one leg that terminates to nothing and the other side terminates to a black plastic module (resistor?) The other end of the black Y'd wire feed into the connector that plugs into the HT Ignition module (?) The Gold (Yellow Wire) combine via shrink wrap with a Green/White wire and both appear to terminate to fuse 12 in the fuse box. The Green /White wire also terminates to the HT Ignition module plug that can also be seen in the pictures above. Any help on what I can do to get power to the coil would be most appreciated. Thank you
  19. buckweber

    buckweber

    buckweber commented on buckweber's blog entry in buckweber

    Thank you xr4tic. Newbie to the site. I will use forum going forward. It appears that there is just one wire to the ignition. However, there is no power to the coil. The car hasn't run since 1995. The starter turns over, I just have no spark.
  20. buckweber

    buckweber

    buckweber posted a blog entry in buckweber

    I have a1974 TII basket case. Wiring is hacked. There are to wires feeding from the + side of the coil. 1 appears to route into the car and I assume it goes to the ignition. The other is a red/black wire that is cut and goes nowhere. I have no power to the coil. Looking for help on where the wire it to terminate. I looked at the PDF manual for the 2002 and the diagrams are legend is cut off. It appears in the drawing that the wire may go to some resister (or other device) and then perhaps terminate to the fuse box. Any information would be most appreciated. Thank you , Buck
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