jp5Touring

53 minutes ago, 2002Scoob said:

@NYTransplant

 

You're gunna hate me... but I kinda love how your paint looked oxidized. haha. I can't explain it, but I love it! Like a purpley dusty rose in satin finish. 

The pics off the trailer are cool for sure and I do love that "patinia". NY Transplant I think the car looks great with all the work and details that have been done. That paint turned out great.  I think this is part of the joy of owning a 2002.  

Front end damage at one point and replaced with the newer used front clip would be my first guess.

Not a uncommon repair. At that price it should be the correct front I think.

17 hours ago, joysterm said:

Received the bit of hardware/dust collector yesterday and hanging out with a couple of new found friends

Joystream, congrats and looks to be well deserved, such a beautiful example.  I noticed you had the Quick Jack set up.

Look to work well for the 2002.Are you happy with it and any other thoughts on the system.  My Costco has them on sale for $999. thought that was a pretty good price. Seriously considering them. thx 

Agreed,   chargin what speaker enclosure is that I spy on the parcel shelf.  

I know late to the party, but interested also.?

14 minutes ago, Andrewp said:

The gauges look great. Where did you buy them?

 

The LED bulbs I got at SuperbrightLEDS.com and thank you.  Gauges are factory, I cleaned up everything repainted the inside gauge trim ring and painted the back inside of the cluster matte white.

https://www.superbrightleds.com/vehicle/1973-bmw-2002-vehicle-led-lights?make=11&model=45&year=1973

Replaced my cracked  black bezel with one I purchased on here. Also had the trim rings pin stripped silver.

Replaced all the instrument lights with LED. Daylight picture and their dimmable. Turned out really nice, happy guy.

I also repaired the odometer and got that to work correctly.

Someone tried to repair the odometer and ruined the gear pin that holds the numbers.

I had a spare squaretail cluster I pilfered  parts from. The old gear pin.

I can do 8 gauge, I didn't think I was powering the whole car just those three power points.  

Everything works, but for some reason my turn signals don't.  My flashers/hazards work and all the lights work.

I must of bumped something, I think I have a spare flasher relay.    

So made some progress, wired my alternator directly to the starter solenoid. With out a fuse, correct ?

Also traced the other 3 power wires, fan relay, ignition/key,  and fuse #7.

So if I'm right I just need a terminal bus bar for the 3 wires. 

I planed to use 12 gauge from starter to bus bar, two feet at the most.  12 gauge adequate ?

A little better wiring for the starter.

Is this attached to the #6 or # 7 fuse ?  It should be # 7. All the green tape clean up is for another day.

So dive in, to figure out my little wiring block. Removed some of the fabric tape to clean up the wiring.

The power wire from my starter to the 4 wire 50 amp fuse box is this little gem, the wire under the fabric tape just didn't 

fill right.  What the hell.

Thanks to all the input so far, bunch of great people on here.  I  purchased one cable while I was out today.

Interstate Batteries made one to my specs in 2 gauge. He has to order  more red so I can get the battery to starter cable in 2 gauge.  So next week for that  cable. About to go figure out what the 4 wires on that block go for sure.

A little tider 

Is impressive, 

38 minutes ago, rcf925 said:

 

Carter 4070 should work, 4-8 psi made for carbs

4-8 is to high for Webers, you'll need a fuel regulator.

You'll need a fuel regulator also Webers like 2.5 psi . No expert but I would make sure the Carter will work well at a  low psi.

Hopefully someone that knows Webers well will  chime in.

I have webers and have Ireland Engineering  electric fuel pump with a fuel regulator. They have a block off plate for the old fuel pump also.

http://www.iemotorsport.com/bmw/CTGY/2002-fuel-intake.html

Just a little project creep,  No grommet going in the back of car so pulled back seat to drill out and correct.

My positive cable connection .I have enough length to cut off and repair.

PO used welding cable looks to be 4 gauge if I read it right

I sign in go to my battery thread and then  kicks me out again. grrrrr

I keep getting the update your email header on top of the page. My email is correct and valid. 

I got that today also . Never before.

Mine won't cancel on left turns PO said it was broken. Will have to take a look and see if installed correctly.

Both sunroof and A/C are a rare combo.  I had to order mine that way because the factory did one or the other at least in the 83 model year.

I think some cars do poorly around the holidays, so I would wait a few days if possible.

Great cars I had a 83' GTI new ordered it,  miss that car a lot .GLWA 

Okay so clean up and  shrink wrap the battery cable ends. 

Run alternator power wire off the battery solenoid.    What gauge would be suitable ?

I plan on replacing the 50 amp fuse bar,  and yes I do have the stock fuse box.

Anyone know what the small round relay is for ?

Thanks for the input

15 minutes ago, mlytle said:

if you are going to replace battery cables anyway, ditch the battery in the trunk and put a smaller AGM battery under the rear seat.

I just purchased a new AGM battery couple weeks back. Also the PO had speakers mounted under back seat. So theirs that.

I can take a good look at the battery cables tomorrow and shrink wrap them. I considered doing the under seat mount but just want to drive it till winter. I got a lot going on medically right now so just small projects for now.

Biggest concern is the janky distribution block needs to be replaced with something else and should I add fuses to the 4 smaller power wires ?  Is that 50 amp fuse correct for a battery ? That sounds huuuuge to me, no ?

So with all the talk of bad grounds and battery cables and such as of late I thought I would give my 3 months of ownership 73 2002 a really good electrical going over.

Well I found a couple of concerning things and would like input on the best way to correct my wiring. I plan to replace all my large battery cables. They look pretty old and the coating appears to be shrinking exposing bare positive cables.

First behind my rear strut bar kill switch is a major concern i think. Notice bare positive cable next to my strut bar.

I will replace with new with correct red cable.

Also my ground set up is kinda weak I think ?  yes, no ?

Can some one confirm what these are ? Regulator ? and ?

One of my other big concerns is the 50 amp fuse mounted at the front of engine bay.

The main power wire comes off the starter selonoid to power the 50 amp block. My battery long cable goes positive to the selonoid.

I then have 4 power wires that I think go to alternator power, the small round relay picture above  and I'm not positive on the other two. Guessing Ignition key and not sure on the fourth wire.

While I'm pretty sure about most wiring but it can make my brain hurt.

ShouId I run a small fuse  box with four individual fuses ?  Not one 50 amp fuse.

I'm open to ideas on the best way to make this correct.  

Thanks