jerry

is that the speaker grill used for the more common blaupunkt installations? or is it something you were able to come up with?

how'd you mount up the radio to the console. i'll be doing this in the not so distant future with a Becker, as well. also on a short console. i'd fear that the angle of the speaker is a great repository for all the detrious i tend to have in my cars. ;-(

WOW!!!!!!

time to buy an undervalued '76 02 while they're still here....

this will definitely increase the value of 320i's as well. sadly, i've seen several really nice ones go down because of the sense of 'why bother with smog issues'.

your score is certainly,....

GLOAT-worthy

nice score. are you gonna tell us you got them for $20 or something????

i'd say 3 of those unused should fetch in the neighborhood of $1000 or more.

TIPO 9's are desireable and old school.

still looking, and hoping to elbow my way to the top of the list,....

folks, i have a set of the common two piece side draft manifolds for dual carb setup. i'd like to trade for a one piece manifold, for sidedrafts, if possible, or willing to buy outright or negotiate another trade.

i have a pair of Solex DDH carbs, made in italy, for consideration, as well. These are the design that Mikuni PHH's were based on.

jerryallsmanATyahooDOTcom

just so you know, there's an appropriate sub-forum on this board devoted to postings such as this.

it might also help to include a more descriptive title with a part name, as well.

send me a stamped, self-addressed padded envelope with appropriate postage and i will send you 6 pieces.

jerryallsmanATyahooDOTcom

i can provide my mailing address later...

no, the headliner is glued to that fiberboard. removing those dang clips is a royal PIA from my dealings with it.

you can salvage your torn board by merely epoxying aluminum patches over the cracks or weak spots. thin sheetmetal or brass shimstock will work if aluminum sheet is unavailable. you can patch around broken clip holes too.

when everybody's gone and converted to flat style euro or italian lenses, i'm gonna break out my stash of pitted, faded and cracked, good 'ol american market bubble lenses, and offer them up for sale for crazy high prices. by that time, most folks will wonder why they got rid of all that worthless junk.

unfortunately, for me, i'll probably be back in diapers and senile as a loon, when that time comes....

well, i've been poking around on this car on and off for the past couple weeks. i've got so many projects around the homestead that it's just impossible to devote much time to this car. my goal is to have it running for this year's brisbane show.

since my last post, i've had to say goodbye to my dear friend and companion Ramone. i thought it fitting to include a photo of him in this post as i had included one of him in a much earlier post of this project on page 1. he was a great cat and i miss him.

i also have a photo of the rear suspension bits prior to final assembly. i posted a similar photo of the front suspension used on this car about 5 years ago. yes, this has been a very long time coming.

i welded up the rear trailing arms and decided against an LSD differential in the interest of time. i can install one later. i also have a couple differential final gears to swap out in due time.

i've also welded an o2 sensor bung to my exhaust in preparation for the eventual sidedrafts i hope to install. with daylight saving time approaching, i should get more done during the week.

Well I started working on my 1967 1600-2 yesterday. I was really amazed at how well of a condition this car is in considering it has been sitting in a barn since 1992. I only thing that has been done to it so far is I cleaned all the gunk and dust off the car and waxed it. it has couple spots where there are rust bubbles in the paint but I havnt found any structural rust. the carb and engine were gunk free too. I have changed the oil and it and and turned the motor to make sure everything turns and it turned smoothly! As I work on this thing I will post updates and pics. but hope you guys enjoy!

Tom, your setup just SCREAMS

Testosterone and massive amounts of steroids (injected intraveneously)

i drool....

whether it runs or not is immaterial ;-)

Not sure wheather aftermarket or BMW. ...... I just do not know.

an easy way to tell is whether all four corners are pre-molded, ie, when layed on the ground the OEM gasket will appear naturally rectangular (squarish).

the URO-brand aftermarket ones only have two pre-molded bends in them at the bottom corners, only.

if yours has the four pre-molded bends, consider it sold, i'll take it.

jerryallsmanATyahooDOTcom

Anyone in the Bay Area that you could recommend for doing this kind of work?

san leandro driveline services have done three for me. they're familiar with the process.

I have a 1972 2002tii I am selling soon.If interested you can contact me at swanneeo2@sbcglobal.net

your Malaga ?????!!!!!!!

say it ain't so....

2nd in line if this is still available.

let me know.

jerryallsmanATyahooDOTcom

i am very pleased with my latest attempt at protecting the suspension bits from rust. i started with clean metal, then rattle can primer then i applied rattle can semi-gloss black. initially, i went with the rattle can semi-gloss thinking that touchups would be really easy. it does scratch off fairly easy, i must admit.

anyhow, my most recent modification included a light coat of rubberized undercoating over my rear subframe. it dries to a nice semi-gloss finish with a very subtle texture. the best part is that it is semi-pliable so i am hoping that scratches won't lead to delamination. it should be applied before assembly as i think it would look terrible if it appeared as overspray. touchups could be applied with adequate masking. this is the way i'll be doing my suspension bits henceforth.

there is no commercially available plate to my knowledge. you'd have to hog out the existing older manifold and fabricate an adapter plate to line up the bolt holes. by the time you go through the process you'd probably be money and time ahead to merely buy a used later manifold. they are common.

also, for consideration is my opinion that the earlier intake tubes on the single barrel manifold look a little smaller, ie., less flow. need to confirm though.

i got a sketchy response from a fellow in England after i posted a WTB for some Ronal Teddybears. the guy offered to sell and SHIP a set of four for about $300. yeah, right....

i played along for a while and got his hopes up, but there is some credence to the saying "if it sounds too good to be true, it probably is".

i ended up finding them stateside for a fair bit more.

early wheels and covers for the Baroness/ Made it to Deurne but "Gypse the GPS" could not find Manders auto glass.He has some nice 02's and a 730/1978 w/ 13000 km sweet!a tad over 8,000 miles

is this supposed to mean something????

i've done both zinc dichromate and cad-plating. cad is more corrosion resistant, but, in time, BOTH will oxidize. i live near the salt water so your results may differ. i've gotten to the point where i rattle can paint over the bigger items, either silver or goldish. i've gotten over the OEM look long ago. nuts and bolts are one their own. i don't paint them.

one thing about hydrogen embrittlement in high strength steel; hydrogen diffuses very easily. if you are concerned about it you can bake the bolts yourself at 300-400F for 20 minutes. personally, i wouldn't worry about it. i've had no issues with any of the bits i've cad-plated, to date.

you have quite a collection of bits in your pile. if you want to keep things together you'll have to wire wrap them before submital. my experience is that everything goes in one hopper. i pay anywhere from $75 to $150 for a big load.

I paid:

200 for a decent 4 angle valve job, surface head.

40 for replacing/hand hone guides, refacing seats, valves

25 for blast, pressure test, check for cracks

125 for porting intake

Granted i had purchased the parts separately, not sure if that's included but you can save a few bucks if you shop around for your own parts...

who'd you use, and were you happy with the workmanship? i'm local.

i think the best thing you can do....

is start working on the body rust issues first.

you'll have plenty of time as you are cutting, grinding and shaping metal to think things out on the drivetrain.

you are paralyzed with options at this point. do your thinking while you are working on the car. the body comes first. the time it takes to fix it will be more than enough for you to ponder all your options. it will also give you time to 'get over' some of the options, as you've done with having a roll cage, for instance.

Thanks a lot. Worth anything?

how much do you value 'gently used underwear'?

for reference, i bought a short block off this board about 2 years ago with those pistons for $150 delivered. i just need to supply the head. i figured it was cheap insurance to have on hand when an engine dies. you'd have to document condition for potential buyers to make a somewhat informed assessment.

worth, as they sit: $20-$50 with the con-rods

piano tops....