jerry

i use plumber's tape...

reasonably priced, readily available, stays pliable

almost identical to 3M rolled strips.

i've used both products.

yes. the later valves have a small o-ring around the shaft. you can replace with a similar sized o-ring found in a well equipped plumbing section of your favorite hardware store.

the earlier valves can be similarly refurbished, too. they are all-brass construction, and, except for the smaller bore diameter are rather well made.

this site is like caffeine, if i don't get my fix, i get a miserable headache....

yea, i've got the sickness too. attached are the bits 'n pieces on my computer. they include a nearly flawless VIN plate removed from a Pick'n Pull carcass, the terminal end of the instrument cluster wiring splayed out like a flower, a small square plate removed from the rear trunk which is painted in original Golf and a small chunk of Cadmium that i found at the bottom of my nuts and bolts when they were returned from the platers. not shown is my 1/82 scale inka roundie and german ralleye car decorative emblem with what looks like an old Ford Capri or Opel ralley car (looks close enough like an 02 for me) and on the rear shelf is a euro instrument cluster.

and if you look closely, the FAQ icon on my screen....

oh yea, the clock is an original ti-version.

i'd like the clutch/brake pedal covers and the sidedraft air filters.

let me know total shipped to california (94920)

thanks

jerryallsmanATyahooDOTcom

arghhhhhhhh!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

timing is everything.....

i JUST spent $300 on rebuild kits and a few other bits n pieces from wolfcreek racing just to try to get a set of 44's useable and i still have more money to spend.

i would have loved to have purchased your setup....

if you decide to part them out i'd be interested in the linkage, velocity stacks and filters.

i plan to use my set as training wheels then ultimately install a set of solex DDH's in their place.

i'm looking for the cooling lines from the tranny to the radiator and a couple other bits.

i too work near the oakland airport.

are you the Inka squaretail i've seen on Earhart????

jerryallsmanATyahooDOTcom

i'd be interested in the cooling lines from the radiator to the automatic transmission, if you still have them. these are specific to automatic cars.

i'm also missing a couple small bits at the end of the shift lever. what i had was cobbled together by the PO.

jerryallsmanATyahooDOTcom

here's a couple photos of the lower rocker panel repair completed. i decided to cut out the inner portion of the panel shown above since i inadvertantly cut it anyway. i was very pleasantly surprised to see how clean this car is as can be seen in the photo.

it's very satisfying to slowly check-off the items on the imaginary 'to-do' list in my head.

next up is reinstalling the DS door with the internals all cleaned, lubed and ready to go. then i'm off to the PS door for some minor rust repair and R&R of the internals.

excellent work with no apologies... it's inspiring to see you take this bull by the horns and run with it. when you are done this will be a great solid car that you truely resurrected from near death. your metal shaping skills are equal to your developing welding skills. i know how slow this work can be to accomplish.

if you are planning to spend another 10-15K to finish it to your standards then i can only assume you want to end up with a factory new looking car. from the one photo, it looks doable. you'll want to spray the trunk area. i'd up your offer to $3500 if it has the matching engine. realize that there is a BIG unknown with the floor tar covering the floorboard. there's no guarantee that the rust is not on the interior. if he'll allow you to probe near the pedal box and front floor drain openings and it's clean then add an additional $800 to your offer.

you are after a nice car. here's your chance to skip the dirty work, if it pans out.

since it's a S/R, look VERY hard at the rear rocker panels....

what you describe is highly desireable to anyone with the time and inclination to reassemble the car. a rust-free and painted body is a great head start to a long-lasting enjoyable 02.

with that said, several factors will influence price:

location,

location,

location,

ability to move carcass if a ready buyer is not local,

for some (including me) having the matching engine block is highly desireable. other mechanical parts can be sourced and in this case, buying a parts car may be a good option.

i personally would value a ready-to-go, painted and rust-free shell at $2000 depending on the quality of the paint job, even more if it was a color i covet. if it was to be my first or second 02 i'd value it more. since i already have a yard full of 02's i personally would not want it at any price.

an unfinished project will always suffer in price. i know the amount of work that goes into rust repair. it's time consuming. avoiding it is worth the money i suggested, in my opinion, and painted, too!!

i thought i'd do a little update. i've finally completed all the rust repair on the DS door. i'll wait to do final paint and bodywork on it for later. at this point it's primed and protected from further rust advance. before i reinstall it i will fix the rust found on the rear rocker panel shown in an earlier post.

i took an exploratory cut in the panel and am pleased that most of the damage is limited to the lower portion of the rear quarter panel. i'll be able to cut a replacement from one of my spare panels i have on hand. this repair should be alot easier than the door repair.

here you go:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/250936438624?_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649&item=250936438624&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK:MEWAX:IT&vxp=mtr

your welcome.

NM/NA

Do you have any tii rear hubs by chance?

just so you know, there is no difference in the rear hubs between carbed and tii. there IS a difference in the front hubs, though.

to the OP, email sent on the trailing arms...

jerryallsmanATyahooDOTcom

Well Full Speed ahead. I'm using regular mouse traps,moth balls, glue traps,Irish Spring, peppermint oil and poison. Death you little buggers.

dlm ny country

Shy away from poison, they may die in the most inconvenient place. Best to see them dead in or on a trap, no unwanted death smells in your heater core.

back when i had a covered workspace to work on my 02 i got fed up with the RATs that owned the place. it was really creepy working under the car at night and seeing a rat out of the corner of my eye periodically, and seeing the mess and damage they do. i decided to bite the bullet and just use poison knowing that the smell would be bad.

i had NO IDEA just how bad several dead, hidden rat carcasses could smell. i had to wear a resparator for a full 2 weeks inside and OUTSIDE just to get near the workshop. it is a smell you'll never forget.....

great work. must be nice to be able to do all this yourself

thanks for the complement. it really comes down to a willingness to make mistakes and learn from them and try to learn from the work of others posted on this board.

practice definitely makes perfect as the work on this car is definitely better than my first project i posted in this section. i look at those earlier welds and am grateful that i'm capable of improvement....

i started by buying a used Craftsman Mig welder on Craigslist which i later sold after buying a Lincoln welder also on Craigslist. My paint guns were all bought used on eBay. my sheetmetal stock is old shelves that were tossed out at work. i think the other area of improvement is actually shaping the metal using hammers, an anvil and creative use of clamps, supports and bending.

I have new red trumpets and E21 A4 airbox. Willing to trade for 02 A4 airbox...

i think it's safe to say that anyone fortunate enough to have the 02 airbox would be very unlikely to trade for the E21 version. However, michael dubois coordinated with a local sheet metal fabricator, to recreate the more shallow 02 bottom portion of the A4 airbox. he used an E21 airbox and his own setup to confirm the fitment. i bought the 2nd mockup part.

you might consider that route. I'm sure the top piece could be fabbed similarly, but without the logo. i believe the top piece is the same between 02 and E21. correct me if i'm wrong.

thought i'd show another small patch repair....

next up is the driver's side door. it has common rust at both bottom edges and along the bottom edge. i am loathe to swap out original body parts if i can save the original bits. this car has its original doors including the adhesive VIN sticker.

i must admit that it is a considerable amount of work to do the job correctly but i find rust repair very rewarding. every little patch brings the car one step closer to prepping for paint.

i'll buy your exhaust and the red fan.

let me know shipping fee.

greyhound to San Rafael, CA, OK?, perhaps

jerryallsmanATyahooDOTcom

can respond this evening with paypal.

your car as it is, is not about subtle understatement. it's an alpina and the marking screams alpina. it's totally appropriate for the car and i would say that you should leave them on if they are not falling apart.

we'd all like to know what 'goodies' it has....

just imagine if the bidder made a mistake on the conversion rate calculation!!!!

okay, markmac, what is your commission on this????? ;-)

what this suggests to me is that there are some folks who could afford to be low to mid price porsche or alfa romeo buyers are entering the 02 world and setting the bar on the top of the owner's price mark for our humble little car.

i'd sure like to get my hands on that fuel cam, though......

i talked with my coworker this morning. we may still play with a conventional cone. i've got a turbo pump i can use for a comparison and see what, or to what extent they differ.

... the cone that is in that pump I am guessing is substantially different than an A4 pump cone, given that it will flow fuel for a +280bhp motor as opposed to the 170bhp for the ALPINA A4.

this brings up an interesting quandry for me.

i now understand what Pete was asking above. If as you say the original ALPINA A4 engine put out 170hp, i think it's fair to say that all that power was not due to the ITB's and pump alone. i believe you posted several months ago costs to reproduce an Alpina Head and other tweaks to the engine and it was not trivial.

i'm guessing there's very few folks with the genuine Alpina KF pump on their car and even if a person had the authentic pump, chances are slim that the engine was custom built as alpina intended. inkatouring is the only person i know of that had the Alpina pump with his system and to my knowledge the only tweak to his engine was an S14 crank and an E21 head (stock, i'm assuming).

i guess my question is, how to quantify the difference in fuel flow alone to the gain in HP? would there be a tendency to waste fuel if the engine couldn't take advantage of it? there's been discussions on tweaking linkages on standard KF pumps to work with the A4 system to satisfactory results and it is entirely possible that using the alpina KF on a standard tii engine would be pointless.

but, then again, at these prices, these bits are equal parts car 'jewelry' as they are relevant performance bits.... let's be honest.

Eastwood has a brushable seam sealer sold in quart size cans for about $20ish/can.

you can order over the internet.

as for cleaning up residual tar, i used mineral spirits AKA paint thinner. works great.