jerry

What internal mods would be required to match the fueling curve of the pump?

Pete

from what LITTLE i know (and correct me if i'm wrong), the profile of the fuel cone (is that the right term?) contained within the kugelfischer pump, controls the rate of fuel flow. several months ago, markmac posted up a photo showing various fuel cones, apparently representing differing pump specs, ie., racing, standard and A4...

BTW, i would like to offer up for those interested that i now have access to 'blue light' scanning system that can scan objects with a resolution down to 0.0005in and convert the image via Solidworks to a 3D CNC file (Surfcam). doing the actual machine work would likely have to be done by a 3rd party vendor, unless.....

my interest in this auction is solely for the pump and it's a high price to pay for access to that 'cone'.

anyone have a 'cone' available for a little reverse engineering? i could see making a run of about 6-12 with a freebie to the donor. just thinking out loud. considering that the reproduction fuel lines went for $150, what's a repro-cone worth? still unknown is whether it's hardened or other metallurgical treatments to it. fortunately i have a scap pump to disect should i pursue this.

Mine is an early 71 with the vin of 2570460 and was manufactured in Feb of 71. It has the knee molding and short bumpers.

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i have 2570440, just 20 cars earlier than yours. no knee trim, thankfully. chaminox with manual transmission. i bet our cars crossed the ocean together....

your floorboards look very good from what i can see. unless you see delamination at the seam sealer i'd leave it alone.

i would NOT use JB Weld on the floor plugs either. brush on some seam sealer to both surfaces and install them then brush another dab over the edges both on the inside and under the car. let dry and spray rubberized undercoating on the underside AFTER you've cleaned the surface.

if you're going to this effort you are probably going to replace the rubber seals on doors and windows. keeping the interior dry is the best defense against rusty floors.

Interesting. Thanks for replying! Anyone else with an early Model 71?

a) Short vs. long console

Silver dollar vs. black gauges

c) Short vs. long bumpers

d)

e)

Are you looking for a list of changes?

d)6v to 12v

e)clear to light green tinted glass?(the 70 parts car I bought had clear glass)

f)shallow grills vs "deeper" roundie grills

g)red center tail vs amber

h) wiper motor updated

i) turn signal stalks changed

j) 3-piece dash changed to 2-piece dash

k) heater core and valve with larger flow

l) hazard switch changed.

m) door mirrors changed to trapezoid

n) rubber thingy on gas tank filler tube shortened

that's all i can think of....

i bet that could be hammered out pretty effectively by a competent bodyman or a gifted amateur. sorry to see that. 02's are like bumper cars out on the road these days. makes one want to mount a set of I-beams fore and aft....

billyray, i'm happy to hear you are not done with this car. i've admired your car ever since it first appear out of alabama on ebay 5 or so years ago. as fate would have it, i had a meeting in meridian mississippi at the time of the ebay auction and i SERIOUSLY considered renting a car and visiting it. obviously, i didn't get around to it and as i recall, you purchased it outright as you were within driving range of the seller at the time.

i really enjoyed seeing it in the flesh when you brought it to brisbane a couple years ago after moving west. i liked the idea that it made it to the west coast.

as long as you can afford to keep it, do so. hopefully you'll make another appearance in brisbane.....

i'm in a mad dash to get 2-stage paint in the trunk and around the rear window before the weather gets much cooler and the days much shorter. i spent an afternoon scrubbing the rear underside of the car clean of a waxy rust preventative. it certainly kept this car in reasonable shape. i gave the rear wheelwells and underside a fresh coating of rubber undercoating followed by an application of DuPont epoxy sealer. i sanded as best i could the area between the rear window and trunk opening where surface rust had taken hold. wiped the whole area with wax and grease remover followed by a coating of etching primer from a spray can. after that, everthing was coated with the DuPont epoxy sealer. i hope to spray a light coating of sandable 2K primer then sand up to 400grit followed by color. the primer will only be sprayed to the exterior sections and not the innards of the trunk or underneath.

overall, i'm very pleased at how the sparetire well came out. no apologies and it gives me hope on my next project.

my goal is to get the trunk and rear windshield area painted so i can close up the car for winter. then i can reinstall the rear suspension and get the car running. bodywork will be done if phases next spring/summer.

i had a set of really greasy PHH's. i used mineral spirits in a big coffee can to remove all the greasy crud and when i was convinced that the outside was oil free i followed up with grit blast using walnut shells. absolutely the safest way to get them factory new looking. the best part was that all that cruddy grease protected all the Cd plated bits so when i was done they really did look like they just came off the shelf.

using grit or soda may make the die-cast pot metal look too shiny. btw, i bet there's a high percentage of lead in the pot metal cuz those castings sure are heavy.

if you have an ultrasonic cleaner you can be assured that you'll get the innards clean too.

i never have finished my reassembly of the initial one i tore down. i have two sets of these and didn't mess with the really clean set.

I have both sides, may be willing to split if you exhaust all options

i confirmed that it IS the driver's side i'm missing, SOOOOOO,

should the other guy choose to buy the passenger side, i'd be interested in the driver's side, perhaps.

i am also in the middle of boxing up a set of regular trailing arms, too. just have to file a receiver for the flex brake line to keep it from spinning and weld it in place like the originals.

anyhow, if something is made of this let me know

jerryallsmanATyahooDOTcom

let me check, but i am looking for a driver side tii trailing arm. perhaps 2 folks can be made whole again....

i keep forgetting whether it's the PS or DS i need. will update tomorrow night.

if this is a match for an orphan recaro i have, i might be interested. my recarro is not from a 320is. i believe it's aftermarket.

jerryallsmanATyahooDOTcom

If he has cut quarter panel from the back of the door to the rear end it does, in fact, matter. I am looking for pre 74.

other than the aforementioned glued-on stiffener sheet, the panels in fact, are identical.

i'm not including the extra reinforcements at the bumpers, found on squaretails, but the skins are interchangeable. there may be some minor patching to do at the rear corners depending on the quality of the 'de-skin', but they are interchangeable. I've de-skinned several rear quarters from squaretails for use on roundies. it's a LOT of work but worth it.

What year?

should not matter, unless you do or do not want the glued-on stiffener plate that harbors rust, otherwise they're all interchangeable regardless of year.

wow, somebody offered me a set of these from the UK for $250 SHIPPED!!!

i'm just besides myself in anticipation....

Western Union moneygram is all that separates me from my rims.

anyone know an Ian Mcleod in Blackpool?

there's an old saying, "if it sounds too good to be true, it probably is"...

words to live by.

still looking, btw

Funny, I had a white (Chamonix) roundie when I lived in the Presidio. This was seven years ago though, and the car was not in a condition that anyone would call 'nice.'

this particular car is getting much needed attention right now. don't know if it'll get a proper paint job anytime soon, but rest assured the bits of rust are being replaced with clean metal welded in place.

i'm referring to davin's old car, btw.... i got it several owners after he sold it.

11mm is the only one you'll need on an 02....

i believe 7/16 is functionally equivalent.

i was unhappy with my Craftsman set and ultimately forked over the cash for one SnapOn that has worked every time.

i had issues using the Craftsman with stubborn fittings. not enough contact area resulted in rounding.

interested.

is this a later radiator with a provision for a shroud housing or earlier one without?

i'm more interested in an earlier version.

how's the condition of the top plate near the water inlet? is it dimpled, repaired or smooth?

if it's a clean radiator, i will take it. can i pick up through armond?

jerryallsmanATyahooDOTcom

i, personally, prefer to only remove only as much as necessary. if that means several discrete patches, so be it. additionally, i'd avoid lap joints if possible, unless you are dealing with an original lap joint. butt-welds are worth the effort and deserve 'bragging rights', when done. if you've gone to the expense to buy panels i'm assuming you care more about this car than just using it to get by.

there are instances where you might be forced to cut away material just to access the area you really need to fix. such might be the case with the frame rails (carriage rails).

i'm interested in pricing shipped to nor cal 94920, of tii tank No.2

jerryallsmanATyahooDOTcom

i don't suppose they'd be interested in displaying my rust-bucket POS 72tii that could exhibit what happens when salt meets unprotected metal? it's mostly all original.... AAA would have to move it though.

if you really want to make it period correct, you'll have to get an earlier body. 72 model year has 12 fuses. ti's are only 6-fuse bodies originally with the resulting associated interior differences, too.

i'm working my way around the backside of this car. it's time consuming. small patches can be just as much work as larger patches. i am lucky enough to have a spare used rear quarterpanel that has just the pieces i need to deal with the remaining rust spots. it's very satisfying to slowly see a car loose small rust holes that have probably persisted for decades. my goal is to get the trunk painted before the weather turns wet and cold.

must be usable condition for a 2002.

got the set that was brought to my attention.

thanks guys. it was spendy, but sometimes ya gatta do what ya gatta do...

the guy from the UK stopped emailing after promising to send photos of all four wheels side by side. i guess he was unable to locate appropriate photos off the internet.

be careful out there

Put me down for a set....

well, i got alittle ahead of myself on this project thinking i could install the carpet and battery cable to the trunk. it had been awhile since i really looked in the trunk and it was clear to me that the trunk needs a thorough going through before i even think of the interior. if i can get some decent warm weather before winter i'd like to shoot the trunk to make it all shiny new looking.

first up is patching the spare tire well. although i have a couple spare tire wells lying around i always prefer to keep as much of a car as possible. it's a lot of work piecing the bits together but i think the extra work is worth it.

after the tire well is sorted i'm off to fixing a couple rust spots near the trunk hood latch and by the rear fender well. i also determined that the tail piece and passenger side quarter panel were replaced at some time. that explains why this car looks cleaner on the passenger side as compared to the driver's side.