jerry

interesting trivia factoid that they chose chamonix for USA No.1...

i MIGHT have one available. depends upon the condition of yours and if my 5 spds are adequately matched to proper driveshafts. are you in a hurry. i'll have to visit my storage unit to know for sure.

i'm in marin, btw.

well, that's encouraging (the part about using a standard-issue KF pump). i wonder if you'd have less issue with lean condition if you had opted for a schrick 292 cam? i'm still sorting through my own options when the time comes. i have at my disposal a used Dave Redzus KF pump, an unused Wes Ingram rebuilt pump and a genuine used Turbo KF pump. i was thinking of contacting Gus Pfister to see if he could flow check the Turbo pump and whether he knew what the alpina flow rate was.

i still have plenty of time to sort through this as i am currently knee-deep in the rustoration of 2760440 which will wear this kit at some point.

, it had a 300 sport cam in it which worked fine with the ALPINA FI, not so fine with standard Tii injection.

i am curious if your setup included an alpina KF pump or was it standard issue pump

if it was a standard-issue KF pump did you do any tweaking of it?

i found spot weld cutters to be frustrating to use on all but the flattest smoothest spotwelds. any asperities are likely to chip a tooth and render it useless. I took Martin's advice (great rustoration blog), and got a dozen COBALT drills, 1/8, and 1/4 or 5/16 diameter. i drilled a pilot hole through the middle of the spotweld with the smaller bit, then followed up with the larger bit. in time, you will gain enough experience to know when you've cut through the top layer and can stop before drilling all the way through. Don't be too concerned with drilling holes in the sheetmetal because you WILL need to become proficient with a MIG welder which can repair the holes in short order (using a copper chill plate). Unless you have a means to resharpen your drill bits, be prepared to spend a good deal on new bits. Sharpness is key to productivity. i spent last summer drilling out spotwelds on two scrap cars and now have a nice collection of original panels at my disposal. i bought a spotweld splitter from Eastwood that i found helpful. additionally, a firm metal spatula with rubber grip is very useful as a prying tool and it should be reinforced at the handle so you can use a hammer on it. another useful tool if airtools are not available was a used electric die grinder from Milwaukee tools. it is indispensible for careful grinding in tighter spaces. nothing beats the convenience a smallness of air grinders, but this has worked for me.

At the event, there is a show section and a swap section. If you plan to sell stuff, you need to register and pay accordingly.

Now, I do know that if you are just showing your car but have one of two items for sale, you can probably get by registering for show only. But if you are going to lay a blanket and spead your ware, you need to get a "swap" spot.

pierre, are you gonna be there?

i'd enjoy meeting you...

it is my experience that the swap is best suited to those folks who want to clear out their garage. price your things accordingly and you wont be returning home with them.

you will NOT get the kind of selling prices you find on here or on eBay. there is a well known and certain kind of resistance to pull greenbacks out of one's wallet that is famously absent when pressing a button on a keyboard or paying by credit card.

you will be on a blanket or folding table in the baking sun for the most part if you want to sell.

alternatively, you can put price stickers on all your items and leave a money jar up front if you are so inclined... ;-)

if you have rare items, those are independent of my price predictions.

it's just as garrish-looking today as it was 'back in the day'.

that was the car of choice among the children of wealthy iranian ex-patriots who settled in marin after the shah was ousted. typically with customized license plates such as 'Shah 1', Shah 2' etc...

at least the seller knows the region to advertise his offering.

it would definitly fit the bill for the Retro Look.

i like...

when you decide on a price let me know.

jerryallsmanATyahooDOTcom

at the very least, thanks for posting a photo. very helpful

model name would be appreciated by many I'm sure. Does it say 'mexico' or 'europa' or stereo or mono?

mexico and europa are typically models associated with Becker radios

that's a good looking car from this perspective. i'd suggest getting that rusted no.2 cylinder free and do what it takes to get the existing motor to run then sell the car with one of your spare engine blocks included.

you don't want to spend too much time or money on it according to your comments. you'll never recoup any extra money on it unless you were to spend the time to part it out, but it looks too nice to do that.

use glycerin, or dish soap, not vaseline. i've used the pointy wooden end of a cheap disposible paint brush (appropriately sized, about 3/4 - 1 inch size) as a convenient means to apply the glycerin to the lockstrip groove. merely dip the pointy end in the glycerin and push it along the groove to ensure an ample coating of lube.

you'll definitely want to preheat the lockstrip to make it more pliable: hot water soak or sun soak beforehand.

i will be using coaxial cable TV wire for my next lockstrip. after about 4 years, my new silver lockstrip is turning a dull yellowish brown. hardly worth the $40 cost. i'll get over the black appearance of the TV wire. wouldn't it be cool if it could serve double-duty as a radio antenna too?!!!

maybe it's just me, but once a car's been rebodied, it looses its original identity, unless perhaps if the replacement body was also a ti.

i'm in the thick of saving an early tii that for the most part should probably have been allowed to die quietly, knowing that i have an almost perfect rustfree shell sitting idle nearby. thought about it, but couldn't do it.

to an Air Force guy--I bought it from him in 1978. Stll have the original window sticker from Mill Valley.

mike

it's a small world.

my sister bought her 74malaga automatic (long since sold) there, back in the day.

mill valley imports started out small, moved near highway 101 in Strawberry for about 10-15 years then expanded greatly to their new location in San Rafael under the Sonnen BMW name.

the parts guy behind the counter has been with them all this time.

i have one, and i'm looking for a metal frame from Mill Valley Imports.

i know of one other person with one, but he can speak for himself if he's interested in trading.

AnthonyK, if you decide to disassemble your steering box, I would like to pull a mold off of the worm gear and other components unique to the QR box. Where are you located?

BillyRay, i've got one on the shelf waiting for my ti-clone-to-be. you can make a mold if you'd like. if you are planning to attend brisbane, we can talk. i'd want a ride in your ti for compensation....

somewhere in the FAQ Construction Zone i posted up side by side photos showing the difference between the two boxes.

I also replaced the Bowden cable since these cars are old.

are these cables available still????

i just had a co-worker braze a little extension on my broken cable. i determined that there was enough clearance to actuate the valve and not have the brazed joint interfere with the sleeve.

the other issue is the small rotateable bolt with the hole. they are prone to breaking during disassembly.

try applying heat (propane torch or such) to the convex side of the bulge getting it good and hot, then apply a cold damp cloth to the opposite side. the metal will move. try a small dent first.

i may have my hot/cold sides reversed, but i have seen this method work especially where the metal is not creased.

ya know, some folks are wheel whores,

i could easily be a carpet whore.

you're killing me!

I really want another car like this. totally redone cars are somewhat over rated .. I want to be that old guy everyone points at and wonders about... wait...

Amen!!!!

there's a guy in my town who is most likely the original owner of a 356 Porsche convertible with surface rust and primer on panels and years of patina on whatever paint is left on it. i'm sure he must pull hundreds of cards off his windshield from folks wanting to buy it and 'restore it'. i see him driving it with the top down and not a care in the world. we can all learn from him.

i'd like the tii alternator bracket and photos of the pistons

shipped to california 94920

jerryallsmanATyahooDOTcom

that sounds like the same Roger from Bernal Heights selling a ti for $4000 about a year and a half ago. although, at that time it was not declared a ti IIRC, but mention was made of the euro speedometer and dual carbs as i recall. he said it was already sold when i inquired at that time.

hummmmmm......

So the first 1200 or so (of 2629) model year 1972 US tii's were actually assembled in calendar year 1971. That's the disconnect.

mike

something to consider, i have 2760403 built on 12/30/71 and 2760440 built on 1/3/72 according to BMW archives.

both colorado, one with S/R, one w/o. both with the newer inertia seat belts and newer heater control trim plates (no red/blue dots/triangle).

i'm wondering if these earliest tii's had the 'fasten seat belt' sign? mine did.

i prefer the older spaghetti seatbelts and earlier heater control plates on those very low VIN tii's.

i was thinking about this auction all morning because i work within 10 minutes of the auction. i was tempted to sneak out for a peek, but reality set in and i have too many 02 projects already. it looked like a nice car.

if i ever need a nameless grocery-getter on the cheap, i will consider checking this auction out again.

i'd love to see what the highest bid was. the opening bid was $400 on all these cars.

i think if that were my *new* car i had just purchased, i'd be a little miffed at the error. but now, 30+ years later, i think THAT is very very COOL. i hope that car is saveable. i like the fact that they taped it off for final coat, too.

is it an automatic?