jerry

is that a water-based paint? if so, how's it compare to the solvent-based paints wrt preparation, coverage, etc?

Gosh jerry, why don't you ask me to explain something easy...like...say...Einstein's Theory of Relativity.

Don't have a lot of experience with newer water-based two-stage paints. I've not physically worked on painting an entire car since I did a black lacquer Saab 99 turbo back in the 1990s.

D

i was thinking more in general terms, delia...

anyhow, it's my understanding that solvent-based paints are verboten in the bay area now.

is that a water-based paint? if so, how's it compare to the solvent-based paints wrt preparation, coverage, etc?

Thunderballs Activate!!!

http://www.pulpinternational.com/pulp/entry/Sean-Connery-starred-in-Zardoz,-and-wore-a-really-crazy-costume.html

That!!!!!

is just plain WRONG............

ooooohhhhh NICE!!!!!

i need another boat, like i need another 02 right now.

i could really use those rear clips with the loops. outside of buying them off a boat i don't know how i'll find a pair. good thing this one's priced high and is far away....

let me know when you are down to the cheap or free phase and i can come over with wrenches and/or sawzall.

jerryallsmanATyahooDOTcom

My one regret about the carpet install is that I now understand why the factory had the original cardboard under the carpet on the tranny tunnel. I think it served to provide a smoother surface for the carpet. Mine was removed, and even though I had the RamMat down, when I glued the carpet it followed the contours of the tunnel too much for my liking... looks kind of bumpy.

But once the console and seats are in it won't be so noticeable... and only I and the people on the FAQ would ever probably even see it .. ha ha.

Randy

i glue carpet padding on the tranny tunnel to smooth it out. the old Bimmer Parts Co. carpet kits came with this padding pre-glued to the underside of the center carpet piece. it was the wool/polyester blended type of padding, greyish in color. i also use roofing patch strip as an alternative to Dynamat. Sticks good and is essentially the same stuff at a fraction of the cost.

ALCO on Dolittle & Hegenberger near the Oakland airport is where i went. there's another in downtown oakland, just follow the junky trucks full of scrapmetal. a less generous recycler is in Richmond off Cutting Blvd. check the yellow pages for metal recyclers, i'm sure there's a couple by Hunter's Point area and points south.

got a decent floorboard available?

, I didn't want to fix her grilles, I like having a car that shows some character and scrapes. This is not a car to go in a parade but to drive with zest and abandon and damn, she does make me smile each time I'm behind the wheel.

you deserve to keep this car. what you wrote is the essence of these cars for so many of us. for the sunk cost you'll never retrieve, wouldn't it be cheaper to merely hire a cab or rent a car anytime you needed to transport your mother?

several years ago i donated an 02 that i spent a ton of money in new parts on because i didn't want to go through the hassle of trying to sell it. sadly, the charity turned out to be a scam. hard lesson, learned. however, the skillset i acquired restoring it helped on the next one i did, which i painted myself (and learned the process and mistakes).

i am sure you have a very good car now, but there are a lot of little things that inevitably need attention. it is best to either have deep pockets or be handy with tools. the market can be unforgiving when it comes time to sell and most learn the hard lesson that car restoration is typically a loosing proposition.

i hope you keep it or find a deserving buyer.

email me

jerryallsmanATyahooDOTcom

i'm in marin and work in oakland

the dealership can supply some body panels. what you'll pay in sales tax will make up for shipping fees, i'm guessing. the usual on-site vendors can assist as well, blunt/maximillian importing. walloch & ness in germany have floorpans (last i heard, around $250/ea delivered) and Wolf sheetmetal in canada makes a reproduction floor pans.

since you're in berkeley, i'd be interested in sharing shipping cost for a driver's side floor pan, or two.

i'll take the 1600 glovebox

sending paypal, next....

thanks guys. i appreciate the help. i'm deep into reviving this harness now. FWIW, i'm using some heat and oil resistant silicone flexible sleeving to replace the hardened, embrittled plastic OEM sleeve between the alternator and regulator. it's available from McMaster-Carr in white or black. it just can be a bear to push over the fittings sometimes. my fingers are a tad sore right now....

somewhere in this car's lifetime, someone cobbled together an alternator harness from a junkyard and skipped the horn relay entirely.

i've been able to find the rubber boot for the cold start injector; it's a straight-ahead boot, but i've been unable to find the other one that's at a right angle that goes on the water manifold sensor.

i'm in the process of completely rebuilding a very cut-up wiring harness for a 73tii that was given to me a couple years ago. i have a 72tii harness available as a guide and another 12 fuse pre-74 harness for parts. the 73tii harness is missing the section from the alternator to the regulator (seems most harnesses i've seen suffer at this location).

i'm wondering if this section is as long as a standard harness or is it shorter because the alternator is mounted lower?

additionally, at the ignition switch, it looks like someone attached a relay to the thick-black wire for some reason. i'm not familiar with a relay at this location and am tempted to remove it. i don't recall if this car had A/C ever.

i've got the boat to match your car. i was thinking of your car when i purchased this boat. i've been pressured to put a red interior in my chamonix roundie to match it. i just can't bring myself to shelving my very nice black/blue panels, though

http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,0/page,viewtopic/t,349823/

My dad saved it, which is strange considering he's always been the american muscle car guy. I told him that I converted him, he said I bankrupted him, so I guess its all in perspective.

thank your father for removing temptation. it looked like it has a moonroof on it. that can be removed without too much effort. i may have a patch panel for him when i get around to swapping in my sunroof. i'd offer up another sunroof section but i may need it for parts. where's the car's new location?

i'd be interested in your front floor pans if you could get them to the bay area. i'm in marin.

jerryallsmanATyahooDOTcom

I want to build the utimate Tii. Would an S14 (M2) in a Tii be more desireable than an original Alpina A4 spec with original Alpina injection and KF pump setup?

let's let current example answer your question...

there is a certain, very nicely done, early VIN (former tii) with an S14 conversion that is consistently FAILING to get its asking price of around $20K despite what appears to be a solid body around this engine. this particular car has appeared on this forum and on ebay.

my 'take-home' message from this is that a tii retains its value as a tii and not an S14 in a tii body. i would hazard a guess that having an A4 injection in your tii will only be worth the cost of the A4 system if the car it's in is not in top shape and will only increase the value of a nice tii by 'the cost of the A4 system' installed.

do it because you want to, not because you think you can make a profit or break even, chances are, you wont.

very nice replacement. it's an EARLY one, too. built before '72.

my clue: the rear seatbelts (assuming they're original). one of mine is built on 12/30/71 and it has the retractable seatbelts.

i'll go out on a limb and guess that this one is No. 18.

i've been epoxying thin-stock pieces of aluminum over torn areas and painting it satin black. i also squeeze the panels between two boards to straighten them out if they're sagging (as they typically do). bigger pieces of aluminum epoxied to sagging panels does wonders to keep them in shape.

i'll take it. i can paypal you this evening.

jerryallsmanATyahooDOTcom

thanks Dieter. email sent. is the shipping fee for each individual set shipped to each order?

i was thinking perhaps we could ship all sets to the US (i'm willing to be that person) in one box and share that cost. then distribute them via US Mail at an additional (hopefully smaller) cost.

perhaps simplicity and direct shipment is worth the cost...

just thinking out loud.

i asked Dieter Stenger aka BMWonly to help out. he graciously agreed to. he's a native speaker so let's see how this works out.

last i looked there were at least four of us interested.

i'm in on a group buy if someone figures out how to pay and ship a couple sets out west.

jerryallsmanATyahooDOTcom

the seat bottoms are different on each side up until 75. 75 and 76 seats are sufficiently symmetrical that they could be interchanged. i find that seats which were replaced with generic foam pads appear too puffy and lose the contour shape of the originals.

i read on this forum years ago that someone was able to modify VW Bug seat pads to work at a fraction of the cost of original BMW pads. that's an option i might try when the time comes.

I'm heading over to orchard supply now to find a replacement o ring. How tight should the valve be?

be sure to replace BOTH o-rings, not just the one on the arbor (or whatever it's called). the brass cover has a larger thinner one that should be replaced, too. if you have some silicone grease that's helpful to smooth things out as well. don't use regular grease on rubber.