jerry

does it have a clear rubber shroud covering the terminal?

if so, is the rubber shroud very clean compared to a typical engine compartment electrical connector?

if it is very clean in comparison, i'd be willing to bet it connects directly to your fuse box (underside, of course).

i can confirm by looking at my in-op tii if you don't get a definitive answer before then.

i sent an email last night on a couple items.

please email me at

jerryallsmanATyahooDOTcom

i can respond in the evening

very easy to refurbish. go to the plumbing department with your disassembled valve in hand and look for appropriate sized o-rings. i actually stacked two thin o-rings atop one another and no leaks to speak of. the hardest part is unscrewing the two machine head screws holding the cover on. i've got one that'll need to be drilled out because it just wont budge no matter how much heat and liquid wrench i use.

replace them with stainless steel or thru-bolt and nut.

i posed this question to my local radiator guy who knows 02's since 'back in the day' and has done quite a bit of 3-core work. i brought him an automatic radiator to recore and his comment to me was that the coolant flow through the inlet and outlet at the bottom was VERY restricted due to internal baffles. he followed up by showing me the internals once he had it disassembled and there really is an inherent obstruction in front of the inlet and outlet ports.

bottom line, don't expect much coolent flow through the lines. the fact that yours has functioned fine without them should be a testimony to the minimal utility of them.

however, if you like things the way the factory intended (as i'm guilty of), then there's no harm in re-installing them. i will, when the time comes...

but back then I was really in to the Pirates; Clemente, Sanguillen, Stargell etc..Could go for a Giant's/Ranger's series as well.

i, too, was a major Pirates fan back then, even though my local team was the Giants. i used to have great arguments with a classmate who was a big Orioles fan at the time. which was the better team, etc.?

i never could forgive Jonny Bench for hitting the HR that won the championship series against the pirates in 72 or 73 (?). i still remember where i was when i heard clemente went down in a plane on his way to the nicaragua earthquake relief effort.

i thought the A's were a much more exciting team back in those days compared to the Giants. players from that team changed the major league at the time.

edit: got to thinking about all the ballplayers i can remember from my youth, but can't tell you much about today's players...

let's see: For Oakland A's circa 1972

Vida Blue, Reggie Jackson, Joe Rudi, Sal Bando, Gene Tenace, Bert 'Campy' Campaneris, John 'Blue Moon' Odom, Rollie Fingers, Jim 'Catfish' Hunter, Billy Martin(manager)

SF Giants circa 1972

Jaun Marishall, Willie McCovey, Willie Mays (say hey), Tito Fuentes, Bobby Bonds (Barry's dad), Dick Dietz, Gaylord Perry, Chris Spier, Charlie Fox (manager)

in addition to the ones mentioned, Pirates that i recall, Vic Davallo, Steve Blass

allow me to add to the discussion and contribute a bit of confusion. it is my understanding that the original Solex DDH preceeded the Solex PHH carburetor. Both are german-made and made of very heavy die-cast zinc. The Solex ADDHE are Italian made and made of lighter aluminum.

Contrary to the nomenclature, Mikuni PHH's are in fact closer in design to the Solex ADDHE rather than the Solex PHH. why they swapped designations i don't know.

Mercedes Benz 190 SL's used Solex PHH with 44mm venturis and an automatic choke feature and did not have the spring-loaded baffle on the butterflies like the Solex PHH 40's used on the ti's. According to Harry Bieker (an old time carb rebuilder) the MB folks find the PHH 40's highly desireable for rebuilding and converting to MB application.

it's not an issue to install the bolts in opposing direction if you merely preinstall the first 3 in the guibo before installing it onto the output flange of the tranny with the remaining 3 bolts (or 4 ea/ if using a 4-bolt flange of course). you want to tighten by holding the bolt head and turning the nut. the nut is intended to rest against the metal of the flange. you are proposing to have half the nuts secured and tightened against the semi-pliable guibo.

additionally, replacing the u-joint is not a DIY'er job. they are pressed in and need to be forced out and DS typically is rebalanced at that time, too. just had that work done on a couple DS's recently.

you might want to loosen your differential to aid in installing your DS. i little up front work can pay dividends in reassembly frustration.

Left of field, but don't suppose you have undersize tyres on the car?

it's my understanding that the tachometer runs off the distributor and shouldn't really be influenced by rear gear ratios, or tire size the same way that the speedometer is influenced.

i adjusted my idle speed with a dwell/tach meter and set it to around 900 RPM. idles much better. i had the engine idling at around 500-600 and it barely idled. i was actually quite surprised it would idle that low at all. i could almost hear each cylinder struggling to rotate the crankshaft....

70mph = ~4100rpm with a 3.90 and a 4 speed on my '76.

on my return trip home this afternoon, i noted 4000 RPM @ 60 mph and around 4800 RPM @ 70 mph in 4th gear....

i know now that i'll need to adjust my idle speed up a little.

this morning marked my return to actual 02 driving rather than merely wrenching and related non-driving activities for the last 12 months. it is a 75 02 that was returned to me after the PO (my nephew) drove it into the ground. it's back on the road with a new carpet, front end suspension rebuild, radiator and minor patch panels welded in.

it has its 4spd transmission, a 3.91 LSD and 14 inch bottlecaps and what i believe is a 38/38 Weber (previous PO installed).

i can't believe i should be seeing such high revs at 60mph in 4th. can't remember the exact number, but i'm usually able to listen to the engine and now where it's revving at. my tach consistently reads high. no wonder my idle is soooo low right now. i set it according to my tach and it feels a fair bit lumpy (indicates 1000 RPM, but i'm guessing it's more like 700-800RPM).

i've got a Crane Cam XR-700 installed, too

thoughts?

try this BMW number for that part:

BMW PART NUMBR # 61131354696

i'm using it for the connection at the tii water manifold, too

An apology would be nice right about now.

i'm sorry you have sand in your vagina. would you like to borrow my power washer?

classic....

at the risk of overstating the obvious, there exist many of us who frequent this board who lack the telepathic ability to read the OP's mind or discern his intentions.

opening the post, i was anticipating the ever elusive 'offer price', or the more frequently seen 'make me a generous offer', kind of informational guidance typical of the average post.

the OP was suffiently out of character so as to throw me off balance, whereby i merely figured it was a slight mistype of the sort common with caffiene deficiency (hence the 'cup of joe' reference). purely 'tongue in cheek'.

so THAT's where that car ended up. i passed by that car parked on a dirt driveway in Strawberry for several months with a hand written For Sale sign on it. it's more like a coupla benjamins IMHO.

if only.....

stock springs from a '76, big bumpers with impact strips and rubber filler pieces.

huh!!!

looks like a 'bait 'n switch'....

time for a cup of joe.

i'm having a driveshaft shortened and rebuild by San Leandro Driveshafts in San Leandro. around $400, not $600. may be worth a drive, and they are well-versed on the 2002 driveshaft. was recommended by another FAQ'r to me.

as for the u-joints. rotating them should be smooth. there should be no notchiness felt. per the discussion i had with the guy, the u-joints on BMW is problematic because there is not enough flex to facilitate the rollers to rotate sufficiently to even the wear. proper installation of an 02 driveshaft should be straight. look at any 2-piece driveshaft on an old pickup truck and they are typically bent at the u-joint, thereby allowing more rotation of the rollers within the needle bearing. sounded like a plausible explanation to me....

Can I pick up windshield, I am in Bay area?

i'd chip in for gas if you'd pick up a couple for bay area delivery. there might be enough interest for a group pickup, perhaps.

Rebuilt by Precision about 12 years ago, per the owner.. I called him. "All pumps are given the same treatment, dismantled 100% on a bench and rebuilt from scratch."

I will include the injectors, numbered per cylinder.

$550.00 shipped.

email sent

i've cleaned and resealed several steering boxes. reuse the shims. make sure they are each, individually clean as there is no gasket compound used with them. i use a thread sealant applied to the bolt threads during reassembly. used to be able to get the garlock seals from a bearing supply shop. i've also cut my own cover gasket from gasket card-stock and hole punch.

I think a Chamonix '02 would have blue-n-black carpet NOT salt-n-pepper.......

i was just going by what my early-71 chamonix has, which looks to be the original carpet. it matches another 72 chamonix that i cut up several years ago. i could be wrong.

perhaps there were color options available at the time. i'd think blue-black would be a better match, anyways.

deer hunting??? heck, all i have to do is wander outside at dusk to find those wretched animals....

i don't refer to my garden as a garden, per se, but rather as a delicatessen. the deer come down around dinnertime to see what's on the menu. i'm down to the point where my fruit trees and tomatoe plants are surrounded by mis-matched fencing and everything else must fend for itself.

just the other day i noticed a rather large buck nonchalantly munching on some native bushes about 15 ft away. it was only a matter of time before he'd wander down for dessert. as much as they cause me grief, they are kind of cool looking animals up close.

yes indeed.

a very nice interior combo in my opinion.

i haven't seen a true salt n pepper carpet kit since bimmer parts co. went out of business.

i'm going with blue carpet in my chamonix

i bought this car last May because it is complete, an early VIN 403, with S/R, and i'm a sucker for a project. it arrived as i expected, complete with rust and exposed metal. i pulled all the brazed on patch panels off the car and have spent the summer liberating rust free replacement panels and other bits from scrapped cars.

well, i've had this half used gallon of some very nice zinc-chromate primer with an expired shelf-life that i got from work. it's good stuff but i wasn't sure if it would cure without a 300F oven exposure. i'm happy to say that it dried very nicely. i figured if it is good enough for aeroengine nacelles and casings, it's good enough for my 02's.

i had planned to spray it on, but got lazy at the last minute and decided to merely brush it on with a disposable brush. my motivation was to cover the exposed metal for winter. i can't wait to get it running as i plan to keep it looking like this for awhile. i like the look, actually....

i've got some rockers to replace, first, though.

nice!!!!

that car deserves a good paint job. i wish i could watch how they do it...

Shawn, previous attempts to contact you offline have been unsuccessful.

i would really like to be able to install the 5speed i purchased from you back in May.

will you be forwarding the missing speedo gear and bits as you promised back in July???

jerryallsmanATyahooDOTcom

Turn your key to run position. Turn headlights on. Are they bright or redeyes?

key in 'on' position

headlights are BRIGHT, running lights on.

turn signals not functioning. flasher relay goes click, click, click..... but no turn signals