jerry

What is the voltage reading across the battery terminals?

12.23 V as of 2 seconds ago

down from 12.4 V when recharged a week ago and just sitting.

this is a sears diehard battery that's been sitting idle since purchase about 8 months ago..

EDIT: i just swapped the battery out for one with 12.59V

gauges lit up, buzzer worked and engine turned over briefly!!!

turned off key to open garage door (lest i die of CO poisoning)

next attempt at turning ignition was met with one click, then nothing....

FOLKS: just in. my problem appears to have been a voltage threshold below which NOTHING works.

swapped batteries and now the car is idling again.

yea!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Question: i would have thought that at least the hazard flashers would function below 12V?

maybe i still have issues to deal with.

comments???

folks, read through the following post from a forum search and the solution was not resolved/posted:

http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,57/page,viewtopic/t,344522/highlight,fuse+box/

2 weeks ago i was able to start my car after a 1 year slumber. 2 days later, nothing.. nada, except for a small peep when the ignition was turned all the way to start position.

now i don't even get that. nor do i get the 'fasten seat belt' buzzer.

i was getting 1.40V at the solenoid switch, but now that has fallen to around 0.4V.

no blinkers, no flashers, no turn signals, no lights. no guage lights, no alternator light.... dead.

i'm an electrical moron so bare with me and spell it out if possible.

i could have sworn i measured 12.4V across numbers 1 & 2 fuses, but that's dead now as well.

EDIT: the battery measures 12.3V across pos and neg.

i put a lead on the neg terminal and onto the aft side of nos. 1 & 2 fuse and measured 12.03V across each. any significance to the voltage difference?

alternator ground, check

engine to body ground, check

negative battery terminal to body, check

turn signal contacts cleaned, check

regulator contact cleaned, check

alternator terminal contact, check

flasher relay, swapped, cleaned, reswapped, check

fuse box contacts, cleaned, inspected, check

heaterbox ground to body, check

3 relays next to the regulator, cleaned, check

where do i start? i've run out of ideas?

where is the gate to current flow? does it run through the regulator? coil?

i do have a Crane Cam XR-700, btw. i've swapped it out once initially (red herring, or potential solution??)

thanks in advance

that's great. so there's no panel replacement, right?

there's a book available from Eastwood and other venders called "The Key to Metal Bumping" that illustrates the old methods of straightening fenders and such.

in a nutshell, it states that the sequence of straightening is the reverse of the actual damage, so that the point of impact is straightened last. it requires the knowledge and ability to recognize the progression of the bending metal.

i'm currently reading the book with hopeful intensions.

about your question on paint code...

IIRC Malaga paint code is 032

if you are respraying the whole car then work off that. if you are going to try to color-match to existing (non-OEM, attempt at Malaga), then i will endeavor to send you a small sample of wet paint for comparison.

Malaga, colormatched wet, actually dries to a slightly brick-red appearance, which i actually prefer.....

email sent. would like to buy the 3.45 if still available.

Wait, is this the singular forked one that attaches via two 10mm bolts into the side of the manifold?

yes, indeed it is.

i've located one from hogpie, could use a 2nd...

thanks

i agree. loose the lower molding!!!!

i would only consider keeping it for a bone-stock roundie tii (even then i'd have to 'hold my nose' to keep it).

i plan to weld up the lower molding holes on every future 02 i rehab.

having said that, be prepared for added body work along the passenger side rear quarter should you decide to weld up the holes on YOUR particular car.

a new paintjob on your car should look stunning. it'd be nice to see you up at brisbane next year.

still looking.....

i'm looking for the DS air filter bracket from the later 2-barrel solex carb that holds the air filter housing.

would be interested in the red fan, too

jerryallsmanATyahooDOTcom

i don't know where mine went. i've looked all over for them, but i need the bracket that attaches to the intake manifold that supports the OEM air filter housing from the later version Solex 2-barrel carb.

i could use 2 of them, but at least one would be most helpful at this time. for some reason, i have several of the PS bracket, but no DS bracket :-(

jerryallsmanATyahooDOTcom

hey brian, if you breakdown in marin you can call me... ;-)

lucky B**tard!!!!

make a day of it and take the slow road down 101. avenue of the giants...

yes, BUT,....

two questions to be answered:

what type of pistons will be used? bathtubs, piano tops, or flattops

is it truely a tii head without the mechanical fuel pump boss, drilled and tapped?

if yes to question 2, then you'll need an electric fuel pump.

it's doable, but if it is indeed a true tii head, i'm sure you could trade it for a regular head to someone like me, perhaps....

what type is it: 121, or E12?

i've had success by aligning the TDC mark on the timing gear in line (centered) with the oil supply tube, then rotating the distributor to match the rotor to the little mark on the edge of the distributor housing.

this was after i adjusted valves, cold, to 0.006ish inch.

once the engine turned over i'd fine tune it by ear and double check with a timing light (plugging the vacuum line, btw).

[

But, the down-side is:

1.) Before long, we won't be able to buy 02 project cars or parts cars for affordable prices.

2.) 02s will become more inviting to professional car thieves.

3.) Spare parts (new) will become much less affordable and used parts prices will also trend upward.

4.) 02s will start to be purchased for "snob appeal" by guys who have no clue as to how they were meant to be driven and appreciated (meaning fewer 02s left for true enthusiasts).

About the only long term good effects are that, given the sheer volume of 02s produced and surviving, we should be able to look forward to a continuing supply of new parts, as well as quality reproduction parts to replace what BMW isn't interested in supplying anymore.

Also, more 02 will be preserved rather than junked/heavily modified & destroyed.

Anyway, enjoy "the good old days" while you still can.

If I didn't do all of my own mechanical, sheet metal & paint work, I could not afford to own and maintain this 356. Period.

agreed....

well stated.

i once owned a 1962 Type B 356 for a BRIEF amount of time. i had always lusted after them. at that time you could still find a Speedster for under $10K. the allure died for me once the prices escalated to the point of worry. no thanks.

i hope the high priced 02's are reserved solely for the cleanest restorations and leave all the daily drivers to the affordable column for folks like me.

we're already seeing the used parts climb in cost compared with just a couple years ago.

if you want an investment, consult a financial adviser.

btw, on my way to work, there is a building that houses some of the nicest boy-racers from the 50's and 60's. it is an unmarked building and only occasionally leaves the garage door open. this morning as i passed, they were loading a 50's-60's vintage Ferrari onto the enclosed transporter presumably headed to Monterey, i bet. had a big meatball emblem with the number '61' on the door. i was told this 'shop' is owned by a major car dealer in Marin.

'll take them...

jerryallsmanATyahooDOTcom

bumpers are the same. only difference is in the mounting brackets as you noted and the over-riders. switch as you wish..

btw, i wish i was closer, cuz i could really use the front floorpans from your scrap car...

of the several pedal box rehabs i've done, i've only seen wear on the pivot arm hole, once and it was only slight (however, it's on the 'reserve' list now). most of the wear i've encountered, fortunately, is on the small clevis pins which are easy to replace. i'd suspect that the wear you have is due to lack of lubrication, coupled with fretting (wear and corrosion, combined) and can be exacerbated with a tendency to bear down hard on the brake pedal due to non-optimal brakes.

i always dab a bit of moly grease on those joints for good measure and try to swipe the plastic bushings contained within the pivot arm with some white litium grease to help them to remain free to rotate as necessary.

it helps to make friends with someone with a Tig welder who can buildup worn bushings and such. i've saved several bits and pieces on my 02's that way, especially alternator supports and exhaust hanger brackets.

that could have been me 15 years ago. i was restoring my first 02 back then, a light blue 74. i lived in Vinings and worked in the Overlook 7 bldg. i have fond memories of my time in Atlanta. there was a guy just across the freeway who owned TWO roundies. i always thought that was sooo cool at the time. little did i know that in time i myself would possess quite a few on my own. there was a very small contingent of 02 owners as i recall.

the rubber mounts are not appropriate for that bracket. it is bolted firmly to the inner fender.

Also add one more, Wes Ingram... Ingram Enterprises, his website lists the prices. I have the "sport" tii pump.

i'd be very interested in your opinion of your 'sport' pump. is it differentiated from a standard pump by the addition of the 'brass-rod' that (working off memory), goes from the warm-up sensor to the enrichment lever? from his website, a standard rebuild runs about $850. is the sport pump a higher cost rebuild? care to elaborate?

thanks

$900-$1200 if sold in the bay area....

On head bolts I'm not suggesting one way or the other, but I'd be interested to know from the metalurgists if repeated heat-cycling in fact strengthens the metal in the head bolts.

under normal engine temperature cycles, whether the bolt would soften during repeated heating cycles depends on the alloy content of the bolt. to harden the bolt initially, it would likely be heated up to a red-hot temperature (about 1200F) then quickly cooled to at least 400-600F either in oil, forced air or water. for low alloy hardenable steels the RATE of cooling would affect the microstructure and the hardness. tempering is a subsequent heating to an intermediate temperature between 300-700F (depending on desired strength and hardness) whereby internal stresses are partially relieved by diffusion of carbon and realignment of dislocations (imperfections in metal lattice structure). the ease with which diffusion occurs impacts the effective tempering temperature of the alloy.

i would expect that the head bolts are of such an alloy as to withstand normal heat cycles. i would not expect them to increase in strength under normal operating conditions.

other than quench and temper described above the only other way to harden metals is by work-hardening whereby the hardening mechanism results from increasing the dislocation density. (edit: other methods include solid solution strengthening, and precipitation hardening)

i can add that in the aeroengine repair business, most parts are inspected for serviceability before discarding. there are some items, such as turbine blades and nozzles which are exposed to extreme heat cycles which are life limited by time (or cycles) regardless of appearance.

i'd be interested in the front headlight assemblies. they are the missing piece to my ti-clone. also interested in the following:

dashboard chrome pieces.

underdash panels

window cranks

brake reservior cap (without electrical connectors, euro-only style)

put me in line for the bumper bits, too

curious about the emblem that's shown on the back panel (not the roundel)

jerryallsmanATyahooDOTcom

Thanks Ian, Dave, the original seller has offered to replace the missing bits from a scrap tranny, so all is good.

But,....

hold on to those parts, just in case.....

i just discovered today that the 5speed tranny i bought off this board, in addition to the broken clutch slave attachment bolt (that i replaced today) is missing the speedometer drive gear and related bits, shown in the photo below. it appears that this mechanism was removed sometime before shipping as the speedometer cable bolt was still present.

thanks for looking.

jerryallsmanATyahooDOTcom

no.17 in the photo. (the collection of bits, i figure)

does anyone know if i can swap the bits from a 4 speed tranny?

i had exactly the same issue in my 72tii

i was the signal relay, the little black box

installed a new one and no mor issues

DON'T DROP THE BIG MONEY ON A NEW RELAY! Big Money gwb72tii is loaded, so if you want to go broke, listen to him. FIX IT per the flasher FAQ.

george,

i do believe you have the equivalent of an internet stalker chasing you around here.

mr/ms jhc, leave gwb alone, already. this is the wrong forum for these antics.

To hold the piece in place you could pop rivet or screw a temporary backing strap or make small tabs to support the piece. Make sure everything is clean clean clean prior to firing up.

+1,

either cut your patch piece with a couple extra tabs to hold it in place while you secure it with a couple tacks, then cut them off, or if you have already cut your patch piece w/o tabs, tack a couple on. i used this method to hold a spare tire well in place and it worked great. i cut the tabs off and welded over them w/o problems.

i also recommend borrowing or buying one of those auto-darkening helmets. they make welding a lot easier for us amatuers.