jerry

The overall response of the engine was improved more back in May when I installed a new heavy duty throttle cable. The old original Alpina cable (30 yrs old) had stretched until it finally reached the breaking point. After getting the new one correctly adjusted, throttle response has never been better.

Garry

Garry, can you let me know the specs and supplier of the cable. I'd like to have a spare. Thx.

josh, i'm definitely interested in this cable setup too. i'd guess making two or more sets is not that much more effort once they get started...

michael, thanks for the reply. i suppose i have a couple pumps to play with... when the time comes. my A4 has been with Harry Bieker in Oregon for the past year.... obviously, i'm in no particular hurry.

Folks, can anyone post an opinion/educated guess as to whether a 72-73 KF pump is 'more better' than the later 74 KF pump? it is my understanding that the earlier pump pushes more fuel out, or rather, has a different fuel cam.

it has already been opined on this board that my Turbo KF pump is not a good candidate for the A4, sooooo, i'm left with the following choices: a 72-73 KF pump (likely needing rehab, for general purposes), a 74 version (also needing rehab), or a 72-73 KF pump i recently purchased off eBay that was rebuilt by Wes Ingram and has his characteristic 'bent brass rod' and IE logo stamped on the housing.

this pump was rebuilt and never used, or so i was told (no reason to doubt that). there was a thread about this modification several months ago, but the results were inconclusive to me. it seems more of a mechanical tweak to the existing pump.

the suspension parts are interchangeable. i'd use the later control arms as they are stronger. don't mix and match those. for some reason the idler arm bushings are different for the early cars but they look to have the same diameters.

how many sawzall blades did it take to cut up? need to know how many i will need eventually......;-)

you'll need far fewer sawzall blades for a roundie than a squaretail. the rearend of a squaretail will eat at least 3 blades. a cutoff wheel will definitely help there.

a roundie can be subdued and eviscerated with 3 blades or less.

motors that interchange with the 2002's please. Don't remember that post.

cheers

mike

lookie here:

http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,50/page,viewtopic/t,339944/highlight,/

Heater control valve, heater fan, any body trim parts

i suppose it was the ridiculous price for new heater valve that drove up the asking prices for used ones. used to be an entire used heaterbox would sell for around $20-40, about 4 years ago.

as for heaterbox motor, there is an exact replacement available for the 1980's Porsche that sells for about $40. i discovered that tidbit right here on the FAQ. that makes the four remaining Bosch motors i had sent over from England, a fair bit overpriced. i end up rehabbing used motors anyways, so i haven't had the need to use any of my new ones. they sit on the shelf awaiting that 'garage queen' i'll never build.

i still think i've got everyone beat on the tiny plastic bits, though...

i didn't mention it in my original post, but i am almost certain that the car that sold on ebay had a 'Sahara' paint sticker on it and this car has a 'Chaminox' paint sticker.

i am close enough to the original eBay seller that i would have personally inspected it had it been any other color than Sahara. i just don't enjoy that particular color. had it been listed with the Chaminox sticker i would have at least gone for a look.

point is, there are several things about this car and the current seller that just don't add up.

i suppose this could be verified easily with an inquiry to BMW on 2761600 paint code.

well, i've come to terms with the fact that i shall never own a new set of aluminum grills, nor will i own a new set of beltline trim or lower molding. i can accept that, and i'm intrigued with the idea of self-adhesive trim (no fastener costs, less ingress of corrosive moisture, disposable, replaceable).

i am, however, on first name basis with my local authorized BMW parts dealer, who has provided me with prices that are very competitive with what i've found on the internet. it has cost me for that 'privilege'.

lately, i've discovered that i can seldom walk away from the parts counter with a mere handful of parts without leaving behind at least one Benjamin... such is the world we live in.

But, i think i found the greatest assault to my senses when i was confronted with the cost of the simple rubber/plastic molding that is glued to the rocker trim. we're talking about perhaps a dozen more or less small plastic 'banding'. on a mere cost/weight basis this set has to be the all time price leader (and i saw it on ePay) for around $159/set.

that, my friends, is my nomination for the all time 'most' overpriced 02 replacement part(s).

can anyone beat that???!!!!!

makes me glad i saved all those itty-bitty pieces from the rocker trim. as much as i like the rocker trim, the thought of all the water leaking into my rockers from those darn holes and the difficulty of attaching the trim with the new undersized replacement clips has me dreaming of self-adhesive rocker trim too...

i have an extra early tii lower timing cover with integral alternator bracket that i bought from sherman martinez for $150.

if you want it you can have it for same price plus shipping. i can scare up the upper cover for an additional $25. nothing unique about the upper cover compared to stock engine.

jerryallsmanATyahooDOTcom

josh, so sorry to see this. glad you and your daughter are okay.

i do not know what the front end looks like, but that car has survived other assaults on it and lived another day. replacing the tail panel is not a big deal for a competent bodyshop and i know from seeing a friend's 02, that it can be done without much evidence.

besides, the original tailpanel had 'oilcanned' at that exact spot so replacing it would be an improvement. it's too bad that the old methods of shrinking and stretching metal is not well understood or practiced these days. seems everyone goes the route of cutting and replacing panels. 'time is money' sort of thing.

did your quarter panel buckle or is it merely dented locally? it would surprise you what can be pulled out with patience, a 'comealong', some heat, hammer and dollies.

this could be an opportunity to give it the paint job it deserves. hang in there. i've got its sister up in marin (built one week before yours) with a much worse hit to the DS rear quarter than you are showing. i have faith it can be pulled out.

i've seen the workmanship of a coworker who saved a 1960's musclecar that was crushed from behind. took him 2 weeks (of evening work) of slowly pulling, heating, banging, stretching and shrinking to bring it back into shape. he's old-skool but cut his teeth with racecars.

i hope you save it. it would be a shame to loose another 'blue-plate' survivor....

good luck

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BMW-2002-TII-Sporty-2002-Tii-Excellent-Condition-Collector-No-Reserve-/220629979789?cmd=ViewItem&pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item335e92528d

this listing is of a car that sold about a month ago for $2000. at that time it was described as being discovered rusting in a neighbourhood driveway. i remember the VIN (2761600).

in the course of 1 month, the description has been dramatically 'enhanced', shall i say?

just be careful. NM/NA.

i use an old-skool brake tool i bought at Sears. it's essentially a lanky wrench-like tool with a hook on one of the ends. on the end of one arm is a rounded feature that was useful for very old drum brakes (last time i needed something like that i was a teenager working on an old '54 International Harvester; my first vehicle). on the other arm is a flattened end i suppose can be used as a pry tool.

to install the W-spring, i use it like a wrench with the hook.

place one end of the spring in its hole.

install the midsection behind the plate.

use the hooked brake tool to pull the remaining spring end up and onto the brakeshoe surface then disengage the springwrench.

reset the springwrench, one arm upon the brake pad; the other hooked arm upon the spring end. at that point you'll have the leverage needed to pull it into its rightful spot.

a 5 minute effort at most.

the brake tool is still available at Sears and probably your favorite autoparts emporium. worth the $10-20 price.

JackF,

please email me. i have a question about your Turbo build from an article that was posted up on this Forum a while ago.

Thanks

jerryallsmanATyahooDOTcom

so glad to hear your decision. i was silently cringing at the thought of seeing such an early car being violated. would be great to see that car return to the bay area! good luck with the sale.

.....

...........

....... also add weight for

that cheeseburger, french fry eating, couch potato behind the wheel.

i suppose that about sums me up. i've come to the conclusion that the most cost effective way to shed weight from an 02 is to diet and exercise.....

they'd look great on a 3-wheeled car......

:-(

still looking.........................

:>)

i like it brian....

make it smaller though. i especially like the fact that you used old, bent up front grills. they appeal to my sense of aesthetic.

you'll need a small putty knife and light hammer to chip away at the flexible seam sealer. chances are it's delaminated from the rusty area anyway.

treat it soon or it will creep up the wheel well just like a car i'm dealing with at the moment. at that point, the only cure is to cut out the cancer and weld in a patch...

adam, i have a hoist and engine leveler. i'm in tiburon. i'm nearing an engine tranny install and would be happy to trade help.

lemme know.

jerryallsmanATyahooDOTcom

would prefer a 3bolt flange but i can also use a 4bolt flange.

whatcha got?

jerryallsmanATyahooDOTcom

route will be 101 south, on to 19th ave and back to 101.

see you there.

so, we're not going down lombard to van ness this time??

yea, i think 19th to 280 is easier in the long run....

gosh, i could really use a thingamabob.

please bring several to the show so that i can choose the finest from among your collection.

perhaps we can work out a trade for some of my doo-hickeys?

since we are talking about conversion. I need a 3 hole transmission output flange that will not cost me 2 bills. my 5 speed has 4 and my drive shaft 3. zooz3

Send me an Email at Imapinepig at Surewest dot net I just pulled my broken 5 speed out, and the output shaft is already off, make an offer.

perhaps we can do a 3-way deal here. i have a broken 5spd missing the output flange. i don't care which one i get, so if 'zooz3' buys pinepigs, i could defray the cost of that sale by buying zooz3's extra flange.

just a thought. this is for a tranny that i envision disassembling myself to fix, someday.... just because.

jerryallsmanATyahooDOTcom

go to the building supply section of Home Depot and look for a roll of roofing patch. it's about 12 inches wide with a plastic wrap to keep it from sticking to itself. i believe it's used in the valleys of shingled roofing. it's VERY similar to Dynamat at a fraction of the cost. about $25/roll. i've used it on the floors and back seat area. it's self adhesive too, just leave the plastic film on the outer surface.