jerry

i have one that is pitted and bent. i'm hoping to have it rechromed in the future if i can straighten it. i'm planning to put it in a furnace at 400F before attempting to bend it. it's pot-metal, so it's fragile and has a low melting point.

if you had a Mill Valley Imports (predessesor to Sonnen) frame, i'd trade and include cash if necessary, depending on condition.

the irony of it is that i got it off a car from JP's parking lot (with permission).

the higher end units come with articulated tips that can swing up and down and side to side which would allow you to look up at your valves from the spark plug opening.

it appears that you are limited to a straight-ahead shot with the one shown. not bad for $99, though.

Does taking almost an entire for sale page full of one users posts not annoy the hell out of anybody else?

an emphatic YES...

it just doesn't seem nice to others who have taken the time to post up items for sale to have them 'bullied' off the front page so quickly.

I got a set, Id love to get rid of them too!

ill sell em cheap

shoot me an email

morgan, if this is the old-style tobacco/black door panels i'd be interested.

i'm interested in you tii alternator, too.

could be an opportunity to make amends for that header...

interested.

email me with total fees to california 94920

jerryallsmanATyahooDOTcom

if it is for the roundies, the shape should not be symetrical on the bottom pad, ie. there should be a defined difference between passenger and driver side. please confirm.

i found the use of silicone grease and the use of a thrust-bearing with the baling wire to be effective.

it does indeed work.

sorry but i can not import photos for some reason anymore. i'm using a different computer with some weird freeware Ubuntu and it's pissing me off....

but that's all i have and i'm no computer geek.

email sent !!

i'm thrilled to hear from a former owner....

especially this particular car.

there is no reason NOT to try to rebuild these before paying such a high fee for a new one.

i find the hardest part is merely getting those two steel machine screws which hold the cover off. i've had to thru-drill one once. i merely replaced with a small bolt. worked great and no clearance issue.

i dab a dollop of permatex flange sealant over those screws to prevent them from rusting.

useable 0-rings are found in the plumbing section of a well-stocked hardware store.

there was a time that folks broke open the heater box to get the coveted motor at the junk yard and left these behind with the heaterbox carcass. now it appears that this easily rebuildable valve has become the marquee item to find....

well, i went to the effort of installing another set of bushings in a pair of control arms this afternoon, equipped with my camera.

the good news: i learned something. took many photos. was successful with the installation.

the bad news: i don't have my adapter cable to download the photos tonight.

what i learned: forget using glycerine. USE the silicone grease as suggested by another member. it works infinitely better and is easier to apply. i have a tube from Dow Corning used as a valve seal for laboratory glassware. i did not use spray silicone, nor would i recommend regular grease.

it is not necessary to tightly wind the wire along the bushing. i used a length of about 18-20 inches, just making sure that the distribution of windings was approximately uniform.

it is important to use the bailing wire used on rebar; anything thinner is liable to cut the rubber bushing during installation. you will have to pull hard on the wire as the bushing is installed, especially the initial windings. if you find yourself having to exert too much effort to pull the wire away, ease up on the all-thread puller somewhat.

Do grease the threads of the all-thread to help turning the nut.

Using a thrust-bearing is a GREAT upgrade, but not necessary.

Using ACME thread rod is a GREAT upgrade, but not necessary

use HARDENED washers, avoid common washers, too soft.

if you are so inclined, here are the McMaster-Carr p/n's

93410A120 (ACME threaded rod 1/2"-10) 6ft length $37.59

94815A107 (Plain steel ACME 2G Hex Nut 1/2"-10) Quantity 4 $2.44/ea

it's not necessary to buy the ACME threaded rod, but it sure is a nice upgrade and worth it if you will be doing this more than a couple times.

hope this helps. i'll add the photos to the OP when i find my camera adapter.....

btw, i had both control arms bushed and photos taken during the process in under an hour.

okay guys, i'm gonna install another set tomorrow and i will document the setup i use. the new and improved ACME threaded rod, the thrust bearing, bailing wire and glycerine, although i may try the silicon grease since i have a tube of it and it's probably easier to apply.

keep the faith.

STAY TUNED.....

those look right. the way i determined that i had the wrong bushing was that the ID of the center bore was too small for the 'radius rod', or whatever those things are called. plus the effort to install was way too much. verify that the center bores fit their respective bolt/radius rod.

looking at your photo, it appears that you are using a thinner gauge wire to wrap the bushing. additionally, i suggest that you put more windings on the bushing. it looks like the forward side is not adequately wrapped. you are starting the process with the bushing bulging at the onset. i think your wire is too thin. i suppose you can use it, but you'll have to wind your bushing more. compare with the wire i used in the original photo of a year or two ago referred to in the OP.

put some grease on your threads to help turn the nut otherwise you risk galling the threads and nut. you WILL be exerting a large load on that bolt.

one more comment: i bought some bushings from AutohausAZ and they turned out to be the wrong bushings. they were too large, probably for a 320i or some such. just a possibility. i still have those damn things. i waited too long to install them and lost the receipt.

The old metal tube from the old bushing, using that as the main pressure point on the new bushing as it is bein pulled through, wont just push the metal tube out of the new bushing?

What does petroleum based lubricant do to a bushing, curious...

the rubber sticks amazingly tenaciously to the metal sleeve. Just try to peel it off a used bushing.

petroleum-based grease will potentially degrade the rubber over time; synthetic rubbers are oil-based. real rubber is derived from a plant, a milky sap from a tropical plant, rubber tree if i recall.

When I wrap the bailing wire it doesn't stay tight enough. I'm using 18ga.

.....So I need to put that on one end, run a washer over the top of it, then a bolt long enough to go thru the center of the new bushing the control arm and out the other side. On the other side of the control arm a washer large enough to span the hole and a nut to wrench on... this should pull the bushing thru with some lubricant on it.

...... Instead of using bailing wire, what if I put a piece of pvc around the bushing to prevent it from squeezing outwards?

To remove the old bushing I just burned them out, it was simple enough.

my original photo does not adequately show that i leave about 3 inches of bailing wire at the start of the wrap to use to grab onto, and another 3 inch length at the end of the wrap. then to keep it from unwinding while i set up the system i merely give the two ends a half-twist around each other. you should be using the type of wire that is made for tying re-bar together; do not use hi-tensile strength wire like piano wire!!!

you'll need to use either the PVC tube or the pipe-fitting tube as shown in the original post because, you need to draw the bushing past its final position to set the lip in place. the way i understand your description, you'll be able to pull the bushing up to the point of contact with the large washer you are using...

as for the use of a PVC girdle, i suppose you could cut a fitting in half, lube the ID and wire it closed with your bushing inside. don't know if there's an off-the-shelf size available, so a little modification might be needed.

try it and let us know....

using silicon grease is a good alternative to glycerine to lube the rubber, don't, however, use a petroleum-based grease on the rubber.

adding anti-seize to the bolt threads, i found, helped. so did the addition of a thrust washer.

the bailing wire acts to prevent the rubber from merely squishing/bulging out. think of it like a girdle. you absolutely should use glycerine or soap as a lubricant. just swab it on the ID of the control arm and on the leading edge of the bushing. as the bushing is forced into the hole you'll have to gradually pull the wire off (or you'll merely entrap the wire into the bushing).

also, it is important to get a spacer (i used an old bushing) to apply the clamping force against the center bore only. you'll need to push it beyond the 'final position' to seat the forward lip into place.

i recently purchased some hardened ACME threaded rod from McMaster-Carr to replace the all-thread available at most hardware stores. i added a thrustwasher to help in turning the nut and put some anti-seize on the threads. that setup will pull a bushing through a pinhole now....

i'll update the post with photos in the near future as it really is a worthwhile upgrade if you are doing more than just a couple control arms.

SOT:

i have the KF Pump as supplied with the original Turbo. It came with the A4 system i bought last year. I was told that it has a different fuel curve than the stock KF, not to mention the rather large appendage on the aft end.

i'm torn whether to use it as is (if indeed the fuel curve is different and beneficial for the A4) or offer it for sale to the Turbo crowd and just have a stock KF Pump rebuilt.

btw, i recently got my A4 system returned from Harry Bieker Engineering in Oregon after 7 months. nice eye candy. i sent it back however to have him Cd-plate the bits-n-pieces. hope i don't have to wait another 7 months. he was able to eliminate the grotesque weld-blobs and mangled throttle shafts that were on this set with new similar-looking pieces, that were probably what Alpina used back in the day.

now i just have to restore the rust-bucket POS car this will go into. :-(

can anyone offer a comment on the Turbo KF vs. stock KF for the A4 setup?

.

The VIN is 2763064 - December '72 production?

The car is currently sitting on four flat tires, and looks sad and neglected. I

Jeff

hey, i've got VIN 2763062 - built 11/15/72

our cars rolled on the assembly line together.

mine's a malaga, currently non-op, purchased a couple years ago after PO crashed it. needs a new nose, but the engine was a fresh rebuild at the time.

i recall that VIN 2763059 sold on ebay about 3 years ago from Minnesota and was shipped to LA.

VIN 2763062 currently resides in the bay area.

welcome aboard.

Car runs better, but that may be misleading because I had a number of leaks due to partial and jerry-rigged desmogging.

!

now hold on there just a 'cotton-picking' minute....

i had nothing to do with desmogging your car and the 'alleged' airleaks.

sheeeesh....................

my guess is either silicon valley or LA somewhere.

i see smoggy horizon, palm trees, hills in the distance and an american car

okay, i'll bite. count me in for one at least and if you can bring them down to the $80 range i'll buy two.

tii pipe, btw

Ne1 know the years they changed the sills form the narrow to the wider version? TIA

i'm gonna say the change occurred at the 72 model year.

both my late-71 cars had the narrow sill, my 72's had the wide sill

Stainless will act as a heat insulator.

care to explain this?

per tom's comment, it appears that this is a moot subject anyways as OEM pistons are not sold separately.

my position is merely that SS may not be an upgrade from OEM type but is certainly a viable alternative when one needs to replace a damaged piston.

for this application, stainless steel MAY not be the best solution.

as for rust prevention, you are only addressing one side of the problem, but sacrificing another equally important feature of the original component.

Note that the cylinder BORE is still non-stainless and subject to rust with or without SS pistons.

Also, if you look closely at OEM pistons, it appears that they are chrome plated on the piston walls. Chrome is very wear resistant and capable of acheiving a very fine surface finish.

Additionally, they appear to be a cast iron (perhaps ductile iron or grey cast iron) which has a slightly lower coefficient of thermal expansion (CTE) than plain carbon steel, and i believe SS.

i would be reluctant to exchange a chrome-plated wear resistant surface for a less wear-resistant SS of the 300 series (typical) unless perhaps it was made from a hardenable 400 series.

just my thoughts on the subject...

been there, done that. you'll have to find another piston. i don't know if they are available separately. they are cast iron and relatively brittle. i just disassembled and clean one i got off this board a month ago. they show up from time to time. when the piston is not too siezed i have been able to coax them out carefully by using two opposing large screwdrivers to leverage them out.

if you have an air compressor you can try to blow them out by pressurizing the inlet. put a piece of wood between the pistons to prevent unintended projectile. it can be frightening to the uninitiated if it all of a sudden lets-go.

i've been toying with the idea of making a grooved fork-like tool to slide into the groove and give me something to tap them out with.

keep your eye out for a used set. they come up occasionally.

i know someone with a stock 68 1600 who would probably like to have the front brake calipers, master cylinder, brake shoes if still useable and perhaps some other unique brake parts, perhaps.

email me your email address and i will forward it to him: i don't believe he watches this board.

jerryallsmanATyahooDOTcom