jerry

thanks jason,

can you shoot a picture of the spring at WOT? i'd like to see the underside of it.

(i don't want to mess with the person's system i have access to)

does it come in contact with anything? i am wondering if it is more than just a soft-coupling between the two lever arms?

any photos you could share that would help me reproduce it would be much appreciated.

i have created a MS Word document where i've annotated all the linkage of the system i inspected. i'll ask the owner if he minds it being shared publically.

i am in the initial stages of having my newly acquired A4 system rebuilt by Bieker Engineering in Oregon. my set was run hard and had been previously worked on by a neanderthal (i shouldn't insult the neanderthals).

i have had the good fortune to be allowed to inspect a fellow FAQer's A4 system that happens to be at a shop close by. i have noticed some subtle casting details in the intake manifold which suggest that mine is probably an earlier casting as it lacks a couple casting bosses.

the attached photo shows the brake booster vacuum port attached to the No.2 intake port on my manifold. there is no cast boss at this location as found on the one i inspected. the nipple was ground to contour with the internal surface. you can see a capped boss just below.

Question No.1: is my vacuum port location original or an alteration?

Question No.2: any interference problems with relocating it to the position of the capped boss?

the second photo shows a semi-circular spring clamp-like piece between the two throttle bodies.

Question No.3: is this piece still available? i'm missing it

thanks for any info.

i'd use a wooden wedge to gently adjust the sheetmetal. don't need to deform very much. too much and you'll have problems with the accelerator pedal clearance.

$45 shipped to calif.??

if so,

jerryallsmanATyahooDOTcom

I used expanding polyurethane foam (used for home insulation) to seal the cavity and minimize rust.--Jim

have you kept a close eye on it? how's it holding up? how many winter's has your application endured? sounds like a possible fix as long as water doesn't seep in by capillary action.

are you referring to the plastic cap on the forward edge of the upper spring housing of the rear wheels as viewed from inside the wheel well?

if i remember correctly, the rear seam of that housing has a clearance, presumably to drain water.

i'd suspect that if it is clogged, problems will ensue as water is tossed all over and will find its way in and grit and debris will act as a sponge.

this is similar problem that occurs on the lower front fenders where grit collects.

modern cars seem to address this problem using plastic shields (a prophylactic of sorts) to protect the nooks and crannies from water slurry tossed by tires.

Jerry, I'll tell you what, If i dont sell it as a complete, you get the lines, and injectors.

that'd be great. if it comes to that you can leave them with JP for me.

If you don't already have a 3.91 LSD, I'll trade you for the 3.64. Right now I'm debating if I should keep the 3.45 (works with the current 4 speed) or go to a 3.64 with a 5 speed. In any case, I have a 3.91 LSD if you're up to trade. Email using the FAQ button in my profile..

jprocket, i'd be interested in your 3.45 if it's a LSD. i have a 3.64LSD from a 320i. may also be interested in the 3.45 gearset if it's from an open diff. i have a C/R 5 spd that may be a good match for 3.45. i'm in marin.

if i'm not mistaken a true TISA 5spd is different from the 02 C/R 5spd and much rarer, i am not sure of the exact differences, but i bet TJones can weigh in on this.

I would also be interested in the price for the Alpina header.

Thanks, Steve

add me to the list of interested persons....

is there a short production run in our future???

sharpen that pencil and let us know.

[

Jerry - email sent

.

cool. i won't be able to respond till this evening, though. no yahoo at work

cheers

if you decide to break this up,

i could use the injectors and perhaps the injector lines.

how about to resolve the old issue of the headers???

let me know.

i can't see your photos at work, but i'll take your tii brake booster if it's THE one and is available.

jerryallsmanATyahooDOTcom

what's more important to you: good value or retaining the original matching motor that came with the car?

actually, i'm sure you could probably get good value with rebuilding your motor, too, but buying a crate motor is generally less expensive i'm told.

personally, i would opt to try to keep the original motor, but that's just me, especially on a tii.

this ONLY applies to cars i regard as more than mere appliances.

Nice car. Is it a ti like you posted or a tii?

It is a ti....

technically speaking, the last ti's rolled off the factory assembly lines in 1971 and are 6 fuse cars without lower trim molding.

if your's is a 1973 vintage then it appears to be a very nice dual carbed car in the 'spirit' of the original ti's.

ti VIN numbers start with 168XXXX, 169XXXX if i remember correctly.

what's yours?

mine is the 1366th sold in the North America, and is not for sale! :-)

well, mine is the 440th sold in N.A. and sports the same 'sell-it red' crappy respray over original colorado as shown above. (currently sits, gutted, under tarps enjoying bay breezes, saved from the crusher)

.... and everything has its price.

interesting VIN plate above. unlike any i've ever seen.

email sent. i'll put them to use if they are still available.

i think it's best described as difficulty shifting into gears. my shift linkage is all fresh with new bushings, so i'm tending towards thinking it's in need of a new clutch cylinder and proper bleeding.

my concern was that my tranny committed suicide on me....

....for no apparent reason. i've treated it with the utmost respect and kindness.

okay, i've been putting off replacing my clutch master cylinder for several weeks. i've felt into the opening of the pedal box and deterimed that's where the leak is draining to. it's been a very slow leak for the most part and i've topped off the brake reservior as needed.

the car has been sitting for the past week as i slowly finish all the little things i've never completed on it. on my way to work i immediately noticed the clutch pedal felt different. the clutch engaged MUCH sooner than normal. additionally, shifting into gears took more effort.

i was able to buy a can of DOT 3 brake fluid at a gas station and sure enough the brake reservior was below the clutch drain pipe. yea, i'm a bad, bad boy. filled it up and saw a couple bubbles surface from the tube.

my biggest disappointment is noticing that my otherwise silky smooth transmission required more shifting effort.

Question: is the poor shiftability a result of air in the hydraulic line and/or a failing clutch master cylinder?

I promise to replace the clutch master this weekend and bleed the system.

I want my silky smooth transmission back :-(

judging by the amount of smeared metal on it, i'm gonna guess this came off the half-shaft of a pre-74 02.

there's no scale to really judge its size, though.

they are not uncommon.

stronger in what respect?

are you planning on doing a Baja Ralley?

the spring perches tend to collect debris and rust along the weld seam. keep those clean and you'll eliminate that problem.

i don't know of any bending of the tube itself due to stress. what takes a beating is the control arms below and the ball joints and motor mounts.

the bearing journal wears if the hubs aren't properly tightened with ever so slight backlash, required.

But flaking is remarkably rampant, and the relative silence in response to your post might be a sign. I can't stand just trying to get people together to do something fun for free, even remarkably awesome stuff.

If only we could reward reliable people somehow better in society...

yea, that's a good point. i have been a member of a group who have met for volleyball on Thursday afternnoons for the past 6 years. people come and go and only a select few have actually maintained a consistent appearance but it appears that this year may not materialize at all. it's a pity because when one gets into a routine such as this it can be very rewarding, but overcoming the intitial potential energy barrier is getting harder and harder.

who knows, maybe it's due to vicarious living through the internet? i find myself landscaping and gardening more and more rather than going out.

i feel your pain. i think long and hard before committing to a Craigslist meeting because it really is a bummer to deal with 'no-shows'.

the only suggestion i have is to only arrange meetings that work with YOUR schedule. if someone is serious and you are offering a GOOD value and not merely a FAIR value, they'll be there.

i think Craigslist buyers (myself included), appeals mostly to people seeking bargains, not really fair market value.

there is also the inititial excitement over finding what appears to be a good buy, but with time, other factors weigh in, such as inertia, laziness and to a large extent, the willingness to deal with traffic after a day at work.

Jerry,

Do you by chance have the part number, can't find it in the OEM catalog? BTW, I feel you on the rust situation. I'm eliminating the lower trim however for aesthetic and practical purposes.

i'll have to remember to look when i get home. though i may have thrown the baggie w/ part numbers away in my quest to organize my crap.

i've sworn to remove lower trim from all my 02's, and i consider myself a 'purist'. i'm tempted to remove the rocker trim too, but i have to draw the line somewhere. removing the upper trim would be like removing the grills, so i can't do it, it helps define the car.

those were still available as of a year ago when i bought a few. they slide within a channel molded into the rubber bumper strip.

with the exception of the changeover to 12-fuses, these are but another negative design change implemented into the 12-fuse cars, IMHO.

you'll spend a fair bit of change buying all the fasteners and rubber trim to attach to your bumpers which, over time tend to rust into a locked mass of water entrapping angst. add this to the expense associated with the lower trim molding, and its associated rust initiation sites....

but i digress.