jerry

i have 2764379, born on 7/5/73, also Fjord Blue, no sunroof. our cars probably went down the assembly line together.

mine is currently a stripped shell w/ matching motor (as it was given to me), awaiting complete restoration. i saved it from the crusher (yea, i suppose i can fit another 'un).

please post up photos of the repair work. i have similar work in my future.

The blue BMW shop manual has a footnote regarding pistons/compression ratios indicating that all USA Tii's had 9.0:1 c/r.

mac.

well, it appears that the only differentiating feature that has come to light is the changeover from an integrally cast alternator bracket that occurred sometime between 2760440 (born 1/3/72) and 2760868. i'm assuming the E12 head came to be with the 1973 model.

another question i have is whether all 72tii's had chrome seat brackets? i don't know if this is merely owners swapping out for a bit more bling, or not.

my chrome heater bezels did not have small recesses for the colored arrows that i've seen on other chrome bezels. unfortunately, my bezels are severely pitted so i don't know if they even had colored arrow/markers or not.

email me

jerryallsmanATyahooDOTcom

i have a few boxes that i'm rehabbing presently, although none are perfect, i have repaired the bracket with aluminum and epoxy and it's quite durable. issue for you may be some missing strips on the fan cage plastic webbing.

i'd be interested in a straight across trade IF you include your dead motor and fan blade, AND you saved the broken bits from your top section. i can repair that to my satisfaction. let me know.

you might just consider repairing what you have, as i would do in your situation. i merely cut patches out of thin aluminum and epoxy over the cracks, on the OUTSIDE of the box. i pre-drill for rivet holes and to clear the boss where the levers pivot on (usual cracking on lower case). you will not see these patches when installed.

copied from an earlier post on someone's new purchase:

I believe the first 200 US tii's have a few things that make them different from the later ones. Pistons and head maybe. Maybe Les will chime in.

Jordan

The first 1200 or 1500 '72 Tii's had the 121 head and I believe higher horsepower...something like 140 verses the 125 of the later tiis. I think the 121 head on these early Tii's had larger intake valves than what is found on the carbed version. These cars, with the 121 head also had the black plastic intake elbows going to the intake manifold. Additionally the first 200 or so Tiis had the alternator mount as part of the front timing chain cover...This was changed later to a bolt on mount which bolted directly to the cylinder block.

okay, all this discussion on early tii's has me confused. i have 2760440 which has the integral alternator bracket (broken, now) on the bottom timing cover. i was under the impression that early tii's went up to about the first 750. unfortunately, the engine was rebuilt with piano-tops and an E12 head. but i was planning to return to hi-comp bathtubs as i have a NOS set of Mahle's in my stash.

so folks, what is an early tii after all? my hopes of a 3.45 Diff was dispelled recently too.

if these are NOT the more common Factory Overhaul Manuals found periodically on eBay and here, i'd certainly be interested in a copy. i've only seen one set offered on eBay, several years ago and regret missing it. i believe CD (sorry I sold it) posts pages from this manual occasionally, if i'm not mistaken.

as for price:

IF the photos were CLEAR and legible of a quality that could concievably be recopied once more, i think in the neighborhood of $80-100 for a nicely bound set.

considerably less for poor quality photos, maybe $30-50 for your time and effort.

BTW, all roundie US automatics have a 253 prefix...they never reached 2539999 in five years of production. 2534863 was the last US roundie automatic.

mike

cool, i have 2534169, a very rust-free, formerly Inka (now metallic copper)car with a blown motor. it will stay an auto as long as i own it. hopefully will return to Inka, too.

2570440 was delivered near Munich, and 2764379 was delivered in Italy (it was born 17 years to the day after my brother 7/5/73).

i have an early 72tii in which it appears that the alternator bracket was part of the lower front timing chain cover. apparently, that broke sometime in its lifetime and a very crude bracket was fabricated.

this particular 72tii is non-op and in a very poor state currently requiring a total redo. i am in the process of rehabbing all the mechanicals in preparation for fixing the rust.

do you have one of those early tii timing covers available? or should i just go with a later style from a spare 74tii engine i have?

not all tans were created equal.

i'm partial to the tan with the light black steaks in it, pre-73

although i am unsure if that applied to the smooth vinyl only, or not.

i have a '73 tii with the more orangish brown that could use new seat vinyl.

put me down for a minimum of one set whichever color-tone you decide (oh, wait, need a price first before commiting).

driver's side got minor hit. some common rust areas. but the floor pan, shock tower & wheel wel tires are good.

very nice vinz. if i could have fit your 69 on my property i would have bought it. hope it found a good home. that was a great car. had it been green i would have gotten rid of TADPOL for it.

i'm jealous of your new acquisition too, but also had to pass on it for the same reasons.

love these early cars. remember folks, ebay history proves that the early, unmodified cars command the highest resale values. it takes more restraint to NOT modify a stock car.

i've refurbished about 4 harnesses so far in my lifetime. by far, the most damage occurs in the engine bay. the two prime suspects are the lines from the alternator to regulator and the other line along the firewall to the distributer/coil. i typically scavenge wire from a spare harness and try to match up the correct color too. check the lines from battery to fuse box.

in one instance, i did not have enough length of blue/green for a complete splice so i took another more abundant color and made up the difference. i made sure the terminus ended with the appropriate color combo.

look under the fuse box for melted ends, then follow the wire back. unwrap the engine bay wires and clean the wires with electrical cleaner. inspect for any evidence of wear-through on the plastic coating. i've seen small patches of corrosion due to small punctures of the plastic coating.

having said all this, i am still fighting a short in my backup lights on my current project.

i apply liquid tape to each splice then cover in heat-shrink plastic tube, then finally, rewrap the harness, typically with cloth friction tape.

sorry i can't answer your question, but,

why don't you merely wrap any unwanted wire in a neat bundle using cloth friction tape or common electric tape and store it neatly out of the way? the next owner of your car may thank you.

how about using a hose clamp to contain the pin?

would have to see if the screw head would interfere in any way, though.

i just disassembled the shifter mechanism on a 72 i'm working on and saw that the spring-steel sleeve is missing. i'd prefer to replace the missing spring-sleeve if it's still available.

bill, i think you should seek professional help......

that is an amazing effort

you raise the anal-retentive bar to an amazing height.

what i've done for my needs is assemble reference packets of all the nuts/bolts/washers for a particular assembly and store them in my reference box.

then i merely pull out the applicable packet and dig through my parts drawers to assemble the necessary bits.

i've used a cheapo grinder to cut the nut. you will sacrifice the strut mount though cuz the cutting wheel will likely contact the rubber. no need to slice all the way through the nut. get close enough then use a cold chisel to persuade it a little.

after you've ensured that your brakes and hydraulics are in good working order and done a tune up, i think the most important 'investment' in these cars is keeping water out of the interior. to do that will just about use up the remaining sum you have left over.

window seals, door seals, trunk seals etc...

I hate to be going down to your level , but the springs had less than 500 miles, were NOT RUSTY, while your header wwas rusty, and after I sanded it and painted it, it looked presentable. 500 miles is still damn new. I am in College, not a business. My car could not drive out of the parking lot without a set of headers. I am not trying to SCAM you but drive my car. If you think I am trying to make a living off of 'stealing' a set of headers YOU told me i could KEEP. You gave them to me, and I needed them. Sorry the springs weren't unused unscratched, and still in the box.

You were calling me names on email, and embarassing me on the forum. But I have no regrets, because I spent the summer in the shop rebuilt my motor in a month. I offered you a good deal, you accepted, then threw my stuff back in my face and said I can keep it all.

What difference does being a teenager make? Im a hoodlem?! A threat to society? Sorry you can not take me seriously.

I apologize to everyone else.

you have an inflated sense of self-entitlement...

i went out of my way to drop these headers off at your mechanic and accept your springs sight unseen based soley on your description and the mistaken belief that this would be another pleasant, honest transaction as i have enjoyed from others on this Forum.

i did so because you asked me to and i wanted to help you get your car out of his shop ASAP. by the time you presented your springs to me (on my return from work the same day) with a flimsy explanation of why NEW springs would require a 'quicky' respray, you had already installed my Headers. not wanting to make a 'scene' in front of this mechanic, who is well known locally, among the 02 crowd, i took you at your word.

however, upon closer inspection (back at home) it was obvious that your springs were not remotely new and i was incensed that you would try to pull that off on me after going out of my way to try to help you. had you 'fessed up at the time i would have been more amenable to a more generous compromise but you only dug in deeper with inconsistent excuses and denials.

your springs started out as being NEW, then you stated they had only 1000 miles of use on them, now 5 months later, they are down to 500 miles of use on them. i suppose by next summer they should be NEW again!.

what you have yet to understand, and appreciate, is that this issue is not really about the money per se (i GAVE a complete, running 2002 to a friend's 15 y/o son as his first car, who's currently rebuilding it and learning welding and mechanics), but rather about honesty and integrity.

This Forum is not just about the cars, but also about the people who enjoy them. For the most part, my experiences with members have been positive. It is instances like these that when left unchallenged, can foster a belief in some that it's OK to try to gain advantage by half-truths and deception.

btw, i also told you at the time, i already had a spare set of nearly new ST Springs awaiting installation, so my motivation to trade my one-and-only set of headers was truely to try to help another 02er out. i regret now that i wasted that good-will on you.

maybe it's an exhaust leak

from the HEADER you SWINDLED off me.

serves you right.

i tried to do you a favor and you thank me by trying to pawn a rusty/used set of springs on me (after installing my headers on your car) then offer me a low-ball offer ($50) for my very lightly used headers.

had you not so blatantly tried to scam me with the NEW (your emphasis) springs i'd have probably accepted $50.

btw, there's a cracked, well-worn header on ebay right now at the $50 starting bid.

To the rest of the Forum:

sorry for the rant, but i resent being taken advantage of by a teenager i tried to help. This kid is anything but an honest, straightforward person. prior attempts to mitigate this offline were unsucessful. i leave this posting as a warning to others.

No.1 can be fabbed easily from a piece of scrap aluminum bar stock readily available at hardware store, or use steel.

i can provide No.3 cleaned, blasted and painted semi-gloss black for $20 shipped. $12, if i hadn't gone to the effort to refurb it....

i might have a dirty one somewhere if you want to go lower cost route.

No.2 is golden and unavailable at a reasonable price from me.

jerryallsmanATyahooDOTcom

damn you.....

i was minding my own business and you have to tease us all with a link to the holy grail of 02-dom.

that sellers has some very nice toys.

damn stock market. i'd have to realize a heck of a loss to fund these toys.

as for rarity, just watch where the bidding ends. i'll bet there's a little correlation.

not entirely on topic with your post, but related somewhat,...

i was in the process of putting together an order from this website last night when i noticed that shipping fees were starting to increase at a fast rate depending on 'where' the parts were to be shipped from.

it also appeared that the highest shipping fees applied to the parts with the best prices. the wheel cylinders come to mind.

i decided that i was not in any real need to store new parts in my garage and decided to empty my cart.

What are you talking about?

that is a steal.

I sold mine for $650 six months ago,

which was cheap. Wake up, that is a rare wheel.

six months ago, IBM was selling for around $125/share,

gas $3.80/gallon

i think those who are sitting on the sidelines will have plenty of buying opportunities for the forseeable future.

Give me a wood-rimmed ti sport wheel or early wood-rimmed 2000 wheel anyday over the Petri wheel.

i'll take a stab:

i'm assuming that you want to avoid removing the engine from the engine bay.

by now you have the head off, so you have a relatively clear shot of the engine.

i would remove the oil pan and all the freeze plugs and the drain plug on the exhaust side of the block and the oil filter housing then blast the engine with high pressure water and/or steam in all the nooks and crannies. blast water on the underside, too. yes, including where the crank is since you've already got water-contaminated oil anyways.

you will probably need to raise your engine and suspend it above the subframe to get the oil pan out.

once you're convinced all the crud is out to your satisfaction dry the internals as best as possible. use air compressor if available and/or blow dryer. as an extra precaution, you can spray ethanol or methonol to displace any residual water. then spray cranks, bearings and cylinder walls timing chain etc., with oil and rotate.

inspect cylinder walls for pitting.

reassemble and cross your fingers.

since you are soliciting opinions i'll be glad to submit mine as loudly as possible.

(inhale) *****GET RID OF THAT BLASTED KNEE MOLDING*** (inhale...)

i hate that stuff. to me it looks like cheap stick-on trim from the likes of Kragen's, Pep Boys or JC Whitney.

the location is just above the subtle crease in the body panel that i find is a great understated design element of these cars. and to think, they had the temerity to drill the panels to install these wretched pieces of overpriced, plastic-topped trim pieces. worse yet, is that, in time, the black plastic topping has been known to shrink and/or peel away from the trim. to me it's just another area for rust.

i'd like to remove the Rocker Trim too, but i must admit that it IS an important design element on these cars. and yes, i'm not a big fan of the rear bumper 'whatchamacallits' either, anymore.

that's my opinion and thanks for giving me the opportunity to express it without apology!!!!

i saw those on eBay too.

it's been my experience that the rubber housing is the primary reason for replacing those strut mounts and not the condition of the bearing.

in a pinch, if you could liberate your bearings from the old mounts and install them in the housing then you might be able to use these items.

i'm wondering how this seller came across a bunch of incomplete strut mounts.

i considered $40 too much for the hassle-factor involved.

i might bite at $20. i think AZ Autohaus sells a pair around $80. i always double check there before considering ebay stock replacement items. 75% of sellers list standard items at or above AZ Autohaus pricing.