jerry

i saw those on eBay too.

it's been my experience that the rubber housing is the primary reason for replacing those strut mounts and not the condition of the bearing.

in a pinch, if you could liberate your bearings from the old mounts and install them in the housing then you might be able to use these items.

i'm wondering how this seller came across a bunch of incomplete strut mounts.

i considered $40 too much for the hassle-factor involved.

i might bite at $20. i think AZ Autohaus sells a pair around $80. i always double check there before considering ebay stock replacement items. 75% of sellers list standard items at or above AZ Autohaus pricing.

About mounting the gauges on the dash I don't want to modify the dash since it is a 3 piece dash and its in perfect condition, that is why the center console was the first choice to go...

Tell me about your cars! what are you planning on doing?

nice to know the original history of your car. that's rare information that all owners would love to have.

anyhow, using the gauge piece from the VW GTI, i feel, would allow you to place them on the dash without undue damage to your dash. run your wires via the clock opening and secure the unit with a bit of velcro.

as for my clone-to-be, i'm gonna use a '68 1602 shell with S/R that was given to me. i've spent a couple years assembling all the ti-bits including C/R 5spd, sport steering box, chrome dash (uncracked!), ti-clock, etc etc. Fernando, from Colombia reproduced a VIN plate with 1600 TI Spec written on it. it's just one of several projects on my plate at the moment.

good luck with your car. sounds like you have a great platform to work with.

I'd try and keep the early short console look w/ the rubber shift boot.

I really like the radio and the 2 Opel gauges, but the VW motor temp one - not so much. It seems redundant to the temp gauge in the cluster. I'd prefer to see some small colored warning lights, and/or aux switches for fog lights, etc...

i agree with the short console and the redundant temp guage.

use the short console and make one if necessary. i also like your radio and if you can find an original black and chrome speaker grill for the console that would be great.

put your two gauges in a small pod next to the dash mounted ti-clock. i've found that VW GTi's have a molded plastic VDO cutouts on their console. i'm planning to cut that section out of the VW console to mount some guages if and when i get to that stage.

wish i had an authentic ti to work with, but i will settle for a clone....

what's your VIN?

It also seems as if you have one washer on the wrong way (3rd from left). Buys you an extra 2-3 mm.

what he said....

the front hubs from a later e21 to go with the 77 only rotors.

i'm *pretty* sure the requirement for early vs. late front hubs pertains to whether or not you have regular 02 struts or tii struts.

if using the tii struts you'll want hubs from 1977-1979(maybe 1980)

if using stock struts you'll want the smaller 320i front hubs used on 1981-1983ish year.

what hubs you need are a function of which struts you have, not the rotor. i believe all the big brake conversions use the 1977 vented rotor.

as an aside, unless you have a super-strong above average motor, well adjusted stock 02 brakes are pretty darn good. i reinstalled all USED brake components that i thoroughly cleaned and inspected and adjusted properly and they work GREAT.

and, btw, i once found a 3.64 LSD differential on a 1977 320i car. it pays to double check. cost me all of $50 at the time. and i believe it does not require spacers on the output hubs.

i think it would be a neat gimmick if you were to reenact that photo by posing with some of your friends, in updated clothes, with your car, when it is finished.

i'll assume you are probably middle-aged, maybe balding, possibly carrying a couple more pounds than you'd like. the vintage Addidas sneakers could be exchanged for something like Nike's or New Balance. the sandals could be exchanged for those plasticy trendy ones i've seen.

just a suggestion...

the two photos posted side by side might be neat. i digress.

any 02 hood. no differences

it may actually be for a 1.8Liter engine, then.

if you see 1.8 near the casting date, you'll know. the shape of the combustion chamber is different from what i'm familiar with.

is this an E21 head?

does it have provisions for the mechanical fuel pump?

what's the casting date?

thanks

jerryallsmanATyahooDOTcom

email me at home:

jerryallsmanATyahooDOTcom

i have one for you:

$5 if you come pick it up in marin

$20 if i have to carry it to my place of work near the oakland airport

thanks for the heads up.

no problem for me.

must be a canadian thing, cuz i am trying to purchase a couple bulky items from canada and am told that shipping by air is the ONLY method available. it adds an additional $100+ to the cost should i proceed.

this sounds like you need to revisit the old adage:

if it ain't broke,....

you love your 02 soooo much you want only the best for it, but the cure is more harmful than the blemish you describe.

just don't look down there. yes, it happens. unless you can actually verify that they are rusting out, don't mess with them.

i don't have access to a color scanner or i'd be happy to share my color brochure with the group. however, beware that the scanned colors and cool color displays referred above are only close estimates. true colors get lost in translation and are subject to the limitations of the computer screen.

i regret loosing my actual color sample collection i amassed during trips to the junkyards back in the 90's when 02's were commonly found therein. i would collect the small plate found in the trunk that would hold the long springy-rods on the trunklid. they were rarely covered with re-spray and did not suffer from sun fade. they could be had by removing two 10mm bolts and were a nice convenient size. i collected them like some folks save VIN tags.

as for the brochure, the colors included: Verona, Baikal, a dark green (not Agave), Florida, Bristol, Colorado, Chaminox, Sahara, a darker blue (can't remember), my least favorite 02 color - Schwartz (next to Siennabraun in ickiness). Fjord was not listed, btw.

just thought i'd share a tidbit i learned yesterday.

according to my recent eBay acquisition: a vintage 1968 BMW 2002 Paint Color fold out pamphlet,

it appears that the color Colorado (described as deep orange, IIRC) was ONLY available, at that time at least, on 'ti' models.

metallic colors were an additional cost

was disappointed to see that my color chart did not include Turf. I'm guessing it was a 1600 color only.

There were only about 8-10 colors on this particular brochure.

just some mindless trivia to consider.

[quote name="

how do the a and b-pillars get finished at the headliner AND how to finish the a-pillar at the dash?

install the a and b pillar vinyl first. can applie light glue to edges if needed' date=' but i think the factory did not use glue.

fold the headliner over the area at the top of the pillars. the only seam you'll see is at the a-pillar where you made a fold in the headliner and tucked the other edges into the windshield lip and door jamb lip. your thick vinyl edging will cover the vertical edges of the pillar vinyl and across your door jam and 1/4 window openings.

How does the parcel tray vinyl trim get finished at the c-pillar base... what gets tucked in where??

the bottom edge merely dangles loosely (it is part of the headliner actually). your parcel tray is hardboard wrapped in vinyl. there is a curved vinyl strip that is installed before the rear windshield is installed, along the bottom edge. the parcel tray panel is installed later, at your convenience.

areas that are very visible like at pillar-dash, pillar-headliner and such.

dash covers the bottom edge. top of pillar has the small area of folded headliner visible, only

am i being too picky??

there's a first time for everyone. it's not a big deal, really

[/quote]

makes me think of the old TV show Miami Vice.

i think it would be a kick to broadcast that engine sound using speakers, from my 02. can you imagine the looks while in traffic??

yes, you are right. there are indeed THREE holes adjacent to the regulator as you described and they do line up as you stated.

SOOOOO, does that mean that i should wire in a horn relay on the 68? i just don't want to create hot wires that burn insulation.

i had to splice more than a couple wires on this car to clean up the frayed, dirty, burned worn out engine bay harness. fortunately, i have a couple scrap harnesses to splice the appropriate colored wires.

thanks guys. from all the comments it seems like i'm done.

from what i gather, my 68 has no horn relay, hence no missing wires at that location.

although, i did notice a pair of what appears to be very small screw holes at a distance corresponding to the relay bracket mount holes.

with a car this old (build date: 4/9/68), i can't rule out a later modification by a PO at some point.

the single thick black wire to the starter solenoid is consistent with what i have on the 68.

HOWEVER, my 71 02 has an additional RED wire that must attach to the starter somewhere and goes back to the starter relay. the red wire has a loop end-fitting and not a female-connector as the black lead has.

also, i installed a factory-rebuilt engine from a '76 02 into this 1600 as it came to me without engine/tranny/interior the starter is the E30-type small style.

i look forward to getting both these cars running as they both came to me as parts cars.

i'm trying to sort out the wiring harnesses of two 6-fuse cars one's a 1968 1600 the other one is an early 1971 2002.

i am uncertain if the 1600 has a starter relay? there are no screw holes for it near the coil location.

both cars have a cylindrical-shaped relay near the coil area. this relay is taller than the horn relay that is typically near the regulator.

my 71 02 has both a horn relay (near the regulator), a starter relay (near the coil, located on the firewall) and that third relay.

my 68 1600 is missing any wires for a horn relay and no apparent location for a starter relay.

btw, the 1600 was given to me after being parted out somewhat, so i'm working with a somewhat hacked engine bay.

i've come a long way with sorting out the wiring on these cars but this is driving me nuts.

is there anyone in marin with an early 6-fuse car i could refer to?

visually inspect the wire all the way up to the dash for any evidence of worn plastic sleeve. i've found a couple worn wires from rubbing before. all it takes is 30+years of contact with metal and slight pressure and the plastic coating can develop a small wear spot which will expose the wire.

that wire harness is channeled through some tight orifices from the trunk to back seat area and a small opening at the base of the rear seat, driver's side. it's also vulnerable along the rocker panel.

there's a short somewhere, gonna take some eyeballs and maybe a voltmeter to find it.

Aren't they spot welded?

I could cut one off/out for ya?

jonny

actually, all the ones i've seen are very poorly tack welded on with a Mig welder. could probably be touched with a grinder/cutter and cold chisel.

let me know what you want for your efforts and postage.

cheers.

i'll be damned if i didn't JUST throw out the remains of a rusty old 02 with the bracket i now need!!!!!

i did not realize that my 68 1600 has a different mounting location for the brake fluid reservoir and i'd like to use the familiar location above the master cylinder.

i saved as much of that car in sheet metal as i could but i didn't think that bracket would ever be necessary for the parts stash.

thanks in advance. fabricating one is my next alternative.

anyone??

jerryallsmanATyahooDOTcom

not mine, but i've seen that same car in evening commute traffic northbound on 101 in Marin about a month ago. i was in my 02 at the time but the guy did not appear to see/acknowledge me driving past slowly.

i recall the racing stripe and peculiar Vanity plate. still can't figure out the significance if any of the plate.