jerry

you looking for a complete car, or just the roof section???

i've got a roof section i've been holding onto in the sf bay area.

i think a lot of it depends on location, with the west coast being lowest cost for cars.

condition is a better determining factor on price. run of the mill cars are very affordable. prices are increasing for the better daily drivers with minimal to no rust.

beaters can be had in the neighborhood of $500-800 if you are patient.

parts prices have been going up, unfortunately.

on a good note, basic mechanical parts: brakes, bearings, most gaskets are still reasonable. but, keeping rain out of these cars requires ever more increasing cash outlays on rubber parts....

not being obsessed with perfect trim will help reduce cash outlays.

here you go.

note early-style chrome trimmed dash.

if you can get the chrome trim pieces you can use a 3-piece dash by merely cutting the lower dash approximately at a point above the heater bezel location.

note the chrome trimmed clock, short console, sport steering wheel.

hth

is it one of these 'beauties' ?

i was offered the red one for $800 at the time, but exporting an unregistered car into the USA before the winter snows proved to be too difficult.

broke my heart.

gads, i'd love to get my hands on the carcass and matching engine. i have all the remainder parts to reassemble a ti at this point.

Almost wondering if it would be cheaper to install a 320is lsd though.

-Andrew Poon

i paid $700 for my original 02 LSD. it would be cheaper to go the 320is route as they are now fetching about $250-400 on ebay these days and add on a $50 spacer kit from Aardvark Racing and you're good to go.

i wonder if this is the same ti owner from Calgary who had two ti's rusting away in his yard. at the time, he'd rather let them rust into the ground than part them out or help export them to the USA.

it's a car worth saving

maybe these prices will encourage more of us to try our hands at actually straightening bent twisted metal rather than merely cutting it out and welding in a new panel.

i've seen remarkable work done by someone using hammers and dolly's with a judicious application of torch heat followed by water quench. it's amazing how stretched metal can be reworked and shrunk.

in fact, where i work, the technicians in the Rework Shop had to be trained in this fine art by an experienced "car-guy" because we were having fitment problems with an Exhaust Collector after welding patch panels on it. he made believers out of us...

i have the same purple/black wire among the hazard switch bundle, although mine still retains its original clear plastic sleeve and has not been altered.

i *believe* it can be used as a power source for your radio. it may be switched on/off with the ignition, but i'm not sure. time to check with a voltmeter.

as best i can tell, mine is original and unused so i'd guess you can just tape it up and forget about it or use it for your radio.

just tossed two dead ones in my trash last night after swapping one bad one for another bad one.

did the black to blue alternator jumper test but wasn't convinced by my findings so i swapped out the alternator too.

when that didn't fix the problem i tried yet a third voltage regulator from my stash and it finally worked.

the scrounge in me would like to retrieve those two tossed voltage regulators from the trash.....

will a Volkswagen voltage regulator work? gotta be cheaper than the 'up-market' BMW variant (around $35/each).

look on the backside of the steering wheel hub for a small hole (1/8inch diameter). use a nail punch to push the horn pad out of its perch.

a gentle push should suffice.

well, i didn't explicitly confirm contact with the spring-loaded contact, but i did rub some dielectric grease on it when i reattached the OEM steering wheel. i'll check into that.

shouldn't it be an open circuit until the horn button is depressed??

somehow i've got a closed circuit. something's making contact where it shouldn't, i'm guessing.

suppose i'll just put earplugs on and to heck with the neighbors.... while i try to sort this out.

i'm at a loss as to how to troubleshoot this problem without having to listen to that blasted horn while i probe around. if the horn is connected it goes on when i turn the ignition key on. my only solution at this point is to disconnect the yellow/brown wire at the horn.

any help, suggestions.

An 18deg taper from the top of the manifold to the hole outlet to the plenum is the most ideal duct configuration. The step at the bottom of the hole can't be avoided.

thanks for the insight. is your taper narrowing downward (entering the head), or upward (towards the carb base)?

any thoughts as to benefit of biasing the taper towards the direction of the 1&4, and 2&3 cylinder, respectively?

just too much idle free time, i suppose....

last night i was on the verge of 'hogging' out the opening of a stock two-barrel intake manifold as used with the 72-76 vintage 02's. i happened to be in the company of a muscle-car co-worker (owns an authentic Boss 302 Mustang, btw) who suggested that the existing holes *may* in fact help distribute the fuel/air mixture more evenly amonst the 1&4, and 2&3 cylinders. looking at the casting and the apparent flow lines of the intake manifold, it made me wonder if he had a point. furthermore, he suggested that i would be second-guessing the original design engineers who probably would have made such a modification if deemed appropriate.

so,..... i'm wondering about the collective wisdom of this modification. i just took it for granted that it was a quick and easy 'upgrade'. also note i'm intending this for a Weber 32/36. i'm not familiar with the Weber 38/38, or whether this modification is more appropriate for that carb.

i remember calling that guy when he had that car advertised. seems like the original ti-body suffered a crash and the engine swap was done by the owners who used it as a daily driver. he was not willing to sell the engine separately (don't blame him) and i could not justify the expense of shipping the entire car to the west coast just for the engine. sure wish it were closer as it would have been a great addition to my assemblage of ti-parts i've gathered.

post the engine VIN when you have a chance.

would be interesting to get your comparison on driving this car vs. your 911.

folks, i'm repairing a vintage set of supersprint headers i bought recently from this board. while i'm at it i've decided to add an air/fuel pickup port.

i opted for a threaded mount which is oriented at a 45degree angle.

question: is there an optimum location for this fitting?

looking rearward towards the three bolt mounting flange, what orientation (clockwise) should i aim for and how far forward of this flange should i be?

i bought a pair of these mounts so i'm intending to install the other on a stock downpipe as well.

is the 45degree angle mount the right choice or should i go for a straight mount that sticks out perpendicular to the exhaust tube?

thanks in advance.

i've been assembling parts for a ti-clone for a couple years now and perused a german web site and ti sales brochures for some of my info. as far as i can tell the ti specific parts include:

300 degree cam

ti-specific Bosch distributor (0 231 129 033) with a slightly different advance curve from the tii mechanical advance distributor.

6-fuse car only

early dash with chrome trim and ashtray in line with dash.

ti clock similar to tii clock except has a chrome trim ring and the Kienzle is in script writing not block letters.

head is a 121 variant with hi-comp bathtub pistons

4-bladed fan

carburetor linkage is specific to the ti and NLA last i knew.

as far as i can tell, the front struts, brakes and trailing arms are the same as tii's.

the steering wheel is different too, like a sport wheel with cutouts on the three arms.

look here:

http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,50/page,viewtopic/t,304602/

(nt)

you most certainly are discriminating. i've seen that car on the lift and it's as nice underneath as it is on top. nice paint, nice components it's a great boy-toy, one i'd like to have if i had a big wad of money burning a hole in my pocket.

maybe JP will have the room to build one for himself now.

if you want a genuine imported carpet (and you reside in the USA), there's an outfit i've heard about in Canada that Seams like a Perfect place to put an order in.

yea, of course i bit.....

swing batter, swing!!!

that was slow and straight across the plate

if THAT is supposed to be their smallest entry-level car it's a sad state if we put it into context of the widening girth of the american public.

that thing looks a fair bit larger than the 02. almost obese.

although, i shouldn't cast aspersions, i'm a fair bit larger than i was in the 70's, *sigh*

i got one in marin that you can borrow if you can pick it up and return it when your're done....

jerryallsmanATyahooDOTcom

Nope, 2AM Club.

gawd that sucks. the 2AM Club is notorious. my nephew got the snot beat out of him once after leaving during closing time. guy was an ex-marine too, but had a few too many. no reason to pick a fight though. it was several punks against one drunk nice guy.

as Marin is further gentrified, i suppose the bored, spoiled rich kids have to act like hoodlums to try to 'fit in'.

this is an action worthy of Caning. Indonesia has it right.

me thinks your lighter was trying to give you a clear message that smoking kills!

parts i've acquired from other than OEM sources:

steering box seals (aka Garlock seals), much cheaper at the local bearing supply store.

transmission seals

i cut my own paper gasket for the steering box cover rather than spend the $9+ for it.

wanted to buy a pair of delrin bushings (hard plastic) for the brake lever-arm due to noticeable wear, but could not justify the $12/ea i was quoted from the local dealer. Tried to order from your site the other night but the process was not without error. i will most likely make do with some shim stock to make up the slop.

the firewall shielding seems overly priced.

most rubber used to keep rainwater out of the car seems to have become very pricey, ie., the top piece for the door. not to mention that the rubber squeegee has been replaced with a hard plastic ersatz squeegee.

on the for sale section of the forum there's a post offering all the OEM fasteners used for trimwork for around $150.00. i find that unreasonable especially since there are now stainless steel versions being made which are infinitely more durable.

on the bright side, basic repair items such as brakes, bearings, most rubber bushings seem reasonable.

oh yea, the rubber rear shock bushing seems grossly overpriced.

and i was not thrilled when i ordered 10 of those rubber boots for the front turn signal wires and paid in excess of $100 for them about 2 years ago.

cheaper seat padding would be most welcome. i'm about to try converting VW seat pads as was mentioned on this board a while back.

thanks for asking Max.