jerry

FWIW, i work in the aeroengine overhaul business and we do not throw away bearings on a time limit.

i have inspected several sets of 02 wheel bearings and have only scrapped 2 or so for cause.

clean them thoroughly and inspect the balls for condition. look for spalls, scoring on the balls and races. use good light and perhaps a 3X magnifier. they really are robust. pack them in grease by slapping them against your grease-filled palm and working the grease into the nooks and crannies.

do not reuse the seals.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BMW-2002-Black-Carpet-Set-NEW-e10-1600-tii-1967-1976_W0QQitemZ270258013647QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item270258013647

Comments? How do you like it?

I have what I was told was an Only02 carpet kit. i bought it through someone on the board, who said it was only02. I was not impressed. very cheap quality, little to no effort to finish sewing ends and the like. dont have anything to compare it to really but that was/is my impression... just installed it the other day.

sadly, i'd have to agree with Rob's comments. i bought several kits a couple years ago and have only installed one so far. compared to the original Bimmer Parts Co salt n pepper kit i installed 12 years ago, this kit was a major PIA. Took me the better part of a full day to get it to sit right. ii remember the Bimmer Parts kit installed effortlessly and looked GREAT. pity it's no longer available.

it's very important to use padding with these kits to make them look full. there was no vinyl edging to help glue the kickpanel piece to the edge of the door opening. maybe his kits or quality have gotten better over the past 2 years. i did notice that his later kits have the openings for the pedal cut and stiched. i wasn't so fortunate with the kits i received. i had to slice my own openings.

i HATE to see another original 'blue plate' lost forever... The license plates, not the car, per se...

i'm sure you'll treat it right for the next 2-3 decades, as the rarity factor out there must be worth the effort.

i wouldn't parallel park any Roundie if i could avoid it.

the lower molding looks like the aftermarket stuff you can buy from Kragens and apply with double-sided tape. i hate the lower molding. it's pricey, the rubber peels off in due time and the holes required are just another avenue for water intrusion/rust as mentioned above.

as much as i like things mostly factory stock, i've come to the realization that no other 12-fuse car i restore will ever have that molding on it, including my tii's.

not me, but i've been outbid by him many, many times......

deeper pockets than i have

oh well, guess i just have to troll for scraps anymore on ePay.

i still have a couple old leftover bikes from the 30's and 40's that i didn't sell off last year. alameda is a GREAT bike riding town for single speeds, however, here in Marin it's a fair bit hillier and the days of riding down Railroad Grade on Mt. Tam are long over due to population growth and bad publicity.

i was into old bikes long before i owned a car. somewhere i've got a 1920's Elgin with metal clad 28inch wood rims and nickel plated components. i even had the opportunity to ride the most holiest of holies, the Elgin Bluebird, once. i was truely honored.

would love to find an original Whizzer but originals are too pricey these days.

i was reading a post below cautioning against using grit blasting on engine components. as an aside, where i work, we use aluminum oxide and No.13 glass beads and plastic media to clean and remove paint, carbon buildup, corrosion and oxidation on all types of aeroengine parts. these components are made from all types of material such as Nickel-based alloys, aluminum, and magnesium.

additionally, the paint shop will use their own No.13 glass bead cabinet to prep cleaned parts prior to painting, handling only with cotton gloves after the prep.

i only allow cleaning department to use up to 40psi pressure when working on my repair instructions. hasn't been a problem except when folks get sloppy blowing grit out.

btw, for a case of Red Bull, i've been known to avail myself of the cleaning department for my own needs. almost like getting NOS parts.

sounds like your car is worth more as a parts car. after you've gone through the hassle of selling the more desireable items you'll be stuck with a rusting hulk. sounds like most of the sheetmetal will not be sellable.

if you are offered $200 for it consider yourself lucky and a fair bit wiser, hopefully.

make notes of where to look, next time. perhaps squirrel away the parts for your next project and then tell yourself you wanted to acquire a parts hoarde anyway.

I would wipe down the surface with some wax and grease remover and epoxy prime.

+1

skip the POR-15. after a good coat of 2-part epoxy prime you can use seam sealer in the nooks and crannies, then prime or texturize and paint.

you can buy a spotweld cutting bit to try to cut through the spotwelds, but i've found them difficult to use on all but easily accessible straight cuts. you'll be trying to fit your hands and an electrical drill in awkward angles so be prepared to break several of those bits.

i finally just used a 3/8 inch drill bit to drill through the welds as best as practical. get a sharp bit or two and be prepared to have a skipping bit dancing around a couple of the spotwelds as you'll be trying to drill on an angle. drill from under the wheelwell or from the headlight cavity as you see fit.

the nosepiece is welded to the bottom framerails and these must be cut with a cheapo grinder/cutoff tool. you'll see these welds looking downward from the front of the engine bay.

you can run some sandpaper along the area where you'd expect to see the spotwelds and this should highlight the depressions made by the spotwelds.

don't forget the multitude of spotwelds along the top lip of the nosepanel (in the vicinity of a couple decals up front, sorry not able to describe location better).

you may or may not get all the spotwelds drilled perfectly and don't expect to. use a cold chisel to break any ligaments free. you can always weld the drill holes up that you've made.

good luck and if there's a better way please share. give yourself an hour or so.

i got a fresh cadmium plated one for you. bring me a cold one and it's yours.

well, if it's not on your agenda yet, i'm thinking a new fancy tiled floor is in order for your garage to cradle your baby along with floor to ceiling mirrors so it can bask in its own splendor.

nice job.

thanks for sharing the photos. that's been a job i've been dreading that awaits me on two 02's i have right now. great to see that you were able to blast through the drudgery and accomplish so much in one event. your photos will be saved to my reference binder. were you using a cheapo electric grinder/cutoff tool or do you have nifty airtools at your disposal?

i worry about access with my cheapo grinder/cutoff tool. may be too bulky to fit in tight spaces.

btw, what do you mean by 'boxing' in the towers?

armond,

how can you bare to wait THAT long for the goods? that's gotta be about 2 whole weeks!.

try to keep your mind busy on other things....

Ya know, this sounds like a perfect car for Jerry!

to quote Roberto Duran when fighting Sugar Ray Leonard...

"no mas..."

i even turned down an original 73 that armond stumbled upon. small steps, for sure, but i'm trying.

glad to hear everything worked out Brian.

black plates....

YUMMY

i like, very much. but without the original motor i'd value it less.

$700-1000 depending on amount of rust. with a better interior and original motor i'd spend up to $1200

good luck on your search

i thought blunt lived in minnesota....

something about god's country or some such.

i'll give you my opinion only since you asked for input.

i prefer the non-alpinas as being less 'busy' looking.

i think both sets of tires look too big on these cars.

rims that big should also have 'spinners' to complete the look, and they should be chromed, too.

sad part is...

you may have already exceeded the yearly quota of some of our less fortunate brethren who haven't made it to the 'promised land'

WHAT????!!!!

you HAD one of those things and you realized it looked silly on your car...

what are you becoming?

i think you should look for a chrome trunk rack. should keep you busy searching for awhile.

i was provided a photo of one of my 02's with its original blue-plates, unfortuantely some scumbag tore them off for the registration stickers at some point and the person i bought the car from surrendered the remaining plate. the DMV said 'no dice' to me reclaiming the original tag.

anyhow, to address your question, it's similar to what i've considered doable. verify through the CA DMV website that your letter/number combination is not taken. btw, IIRC, zero's are not available, but the letter O is. if it's not then you could ask for a personalized set of plates and you'll be forevermore be beholden to paying the yearly vanity tax to keep them, or not pay and risk someone else grabbing that combo (what are the chances??). then simply substitute your original tags for the white ones you'll receive in the mail.

i was considering doing this to regain the original tags from my car but i'd have to have the original blue plates reproduced and the time, expense and effort just didn't add up. in your instance, it's probably feasible.

just a thought for your consideration...

i don't know much about the topic but i've seen folks modify the early 320i intake manifold for the Megasquirt projects. i think it's a much cooler appearance than the more typical 318i manifold. if it were cheap enough i'd snag it and store that stuff in a corner " for use someday"....

don't know how much is needed though. gives the conversion a more tii appearance

was at VIN 2762630. That car exists here in Dayton and is being restored.

mike

Sadly, VIN 2762530, a mere 100 cars away from the transition point you stated, ended up at a PicknPull in Fairfield California.

it was a virtually rust-free Malaga sunroof model with original snorkeless nose and relatively straight body panels. by the time i saw it all the tii goodies were gone. i made an attempt to purchase it, but Pick n Pull kept it in the yard long enough for others to remove my recently reinstalled subassemblies needed to tow it home. it would have had a salvage title anyway. memories of that car and how someone could have allowed it to end up in a salvage yard haunt me to this day.

i thought the symmetry in VIN numbers of this thread was interesting. truely, i'm an 02 geek....

really unfortunate. sorry to hear this.

unless someone else comes forth with an early 6 volt car on the east coast it appears that the standard bearer is bmw-jeff on the west coast.

i hope you can rebuild. best wishes to you...

The other options are Wurth Body Schutz or Herculiner.

Here's a shot of Herculiner in action if you're considering it. Tough as nails, but it gets everywhere (I brushpainted it) and stinks to high hell.

i must say, i for one, am duely wow'd by your exquisite shots of your undercarriage.

and i really mean that.

perhaps one day i too can join this club. very very nice.