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Posts posted by jerry
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to borrow from the cliche:
'if it ain't broke, don't fix it"
find your obvious trouble spots, address them and feather into good existing coating. don't remove that beige-colored undercoating. clean up any exfoliating thick coating, respray and leave the rest alone.
unless you are wanting to wow all of us with exquisite shots of a fresh new underbody, you're just making busy-work.
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it seems to have a better sound than the weber too.
where can i get a rebuild kit for it? i think it's the stock carb (never changed) on my '69 auto
yea, i forgot that little detail too. it DOES sound cooler than the 32/36, more throaty like a little race car under the hood. even my passenger commented on that, too.
all you guys contemplating an S14/M20/Turbo conversion should take heed.
as for rebuild kits, try Mesa Performance. at least they had the kits for the Solex PHH carbs.
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i recently reacquainted myself with my long-sleeping late-71 project car that sadly took a back seat to life's other demands. anyhow, not wanting to attend yet another 02 gathering in my non-02 gave me the incentive to work on getting it roadworthy.
all i can say is that this particular car seems to be so much more torquey than my weber 32/36 carbed 02. i suppose the hi-comp piano tops and slightly hotter cam 284 (i think) is really the difference (installed by PO, 25,000 miles ago). i'm using COMPLETELY stock suspension and it feels like it. it's got a very smooth 5spd that is a joy on the freeway.
i took a neighbor whose big into 356 porches for a ride yesterday and he was truely impressed. said the car was much more responsive than all but the S90's or hot-rodded 356's. he owned a 71 02 when it was new and was not impressed at the time, but i suppose the pistons and cam did the trick. either that or we're both turning into old farts.
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$3000 yes - and then add $10,000 - $15,000 when you get it home
what he said, but i'd say $1500 tops. there's a lot hiding under there. the shock towers look like they've had undercoating sprayed on them. that suggests a patch job of unknown quality.
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armond, i've got his phone number at work somewhere.
i bought an auto transmission from him a couple years ago.
as for your car, don't expect much info on it as it was a "found" car.
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now, come back with photos when you've tackled sheet metal.
thin metal welding is what separates the men from the boys....
i am thoroughly humbled by my experience with sheet metal. i've become intimate with my cheapo grinder.
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take a look at the Metalmeet.com forum (which i learned about on the FAQ) where there's a guy restoring a completely rusted out Abarth car. simply amazing undertaking. and there are no available panels. everything is either salvaged or remade. it makes 02 rust repair look like child's play.
if you have TIME, and SPACE, a lot of PATIENCE and a willingness to try new things and responsibility to see a project through to completion, then perhaps you should consider taking the plunge yourself. otherwise, start saving your money to pay others to do it.
btw, i think the car is totally cool looking, but storing parts for one marquee is enough for me.
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hey brian,
talk to me.... i'll hook you up. i've got a great fjord tii for you. not a dent or scratch on it. drive it away today!!!! it gets the best gas mileage i've ever seen...... quiet as a mouse too.
for you, i give you good price.
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[quote
You have the red 1600- right ?
well actually, i'd refer to it as "paint store clerk Malaga"
the funny thing is that when i bought this forlorn car several years ago it had a similar brick-red paint job that i kinda liked, but being the neurotic 'purisit' i perceive myself to be i decided to return it to Malaga. I suspect every brick red 02 started out with a Malaga color chip and good intensions...
and it is a 2 liter, btw. and one exceedingly fun car to drive. my first true "ROUNDIE" after a couple squaretails. with hi-compression pistons and original single barrel solex and slightly modded cam, it's a thrill. now if only i can work through the rattles and gas fumes.
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yup. that was me. at least you didn't refer to me as the tall, fat, goofy guy in the painted straw hat...
i'll send an email from home tonight. thanks
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holy crap...
drove my malaga car to brisbane on saturday with no apparent issues other than a pesky electrical leak which hopefully has been identified.
....but, apparently, my new issue only made its presence known with a full tank of gas. after treating my car to the 'highest-priced' gas it wasn't long before i was wiffing petrol fumes in the cabin. big time.
down came the door window, but to little effect. it was a 30+ mile commute to work this morning (its first ever, btw) and i'm still a little spacey... good thing i had a fire extinguisher in the cabin, just in case.
apparently, the vent on the plastic filler tube is not sufficient to relieve gas pressure and the other hard tube near the gas line was plugged (by me, i suppose). the impact was not noticeable on a 1/2 tank of gas, but after a fill-up, wow!!!!
i'm gonna really miss those brain cells....
where do i connect that plugged line to? does it go to the vapor box dangling from the trunk top? the car's a late-71 model. there's more than just vapors escaping it seems.
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Pinched wire to/at the reverse light switch?
Cris
i was wondering about that. this is a 5 spd conversion and IIRC (been a while), i had to make an extension piece to make the distance to the switch. i'm thinking the access, after the fact is gonna be a killer. i'll look into this.
thanks.
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after languishing for the past 9 months under a tarp, awaiting the final touches, i finally got my Malaga project on the road. unfortunately, it has a slow battery drain.
i pulled the negative lead off the battery and jumpered the neg terminal to body ground and one by one pulled fuses. whatever pearl of wisdom this was supposed to reveal escaped my thick head....
anyhow, i noticed that the clear tail light bulb is hot all the time and has actually locally melted my plastic clear lense. i'm thinking this is the back-up lights, right?
my temporary fix is to disconnect the blue/white leads on both tail lights. any better ideas???? i'm an electrical idiot, so be gentle.
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are they selling mexican diet coke too???
i try to limit my empty calorie intake. my fattening food of choice is ice cream....
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a hearty thanks to all those who pulled this event together. i enjoyed bringing a newcomer into the fold (my friend's teenage son) and showing him what is possible. he even won a set of wiper blades for his 02.
judging from another post, it seems like the caravan from sacramento was a sprint to the end. our caravan from marin was more like a funeral procession, must have been a sight for those driving by. what a gas to finally drive my project car after putting it under wraps for the past year. now i need to update my project blog and fix the slow electric drain.
looking forward to next year.... will bring more sunscreen and maybe some swimwear or steal armond's canoe.
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not my car.
but i recall seeing that same car in the parking lot of an Indian restaurant in alameda last year.
nice Agave car with a very memorable license plate.
i didn't have the nerve to re-enter the restaurant and make a public query...
i inherited the license plate TADPOL with my Turf car. the PO said it took a while of searching before that one became available.
i think it's tough to get any license plate related to a frog/toad etc with all the cute little green english cars in existence.
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i spray the inside of all my chrome bumpers, including the side pieces and the insides of the over-riders with underbody spray. i sand em down if they're rusty just enough to clean up a bit. any overspray can be wiped off with mineral spirits.
then i use anti-seize on the bolt threads. i'm tempted to spray the bolts too. i'm dealing with a bunch of rusty bumpers at the moment. they just don't hold up very well, and rarely am i able to reuse the bolts.
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couple of comments on your second set of photos:
1/2 inch is a rather large piece.
the fracture surface is brittle in nature, suggesting a cast microstructure.
the segment shown on its side with the ruler shows what appears to be original tooling marks, possibly single point cutter. compare this with the shiny smear on the fracture surface, indicative of a recent event.
is the crankshaft forged? i don't think they are.
i'd be looking for a missing piece from the engine block casting or the crankshaft.
just my guess from this vantage point
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another exceptional 'how-to' post. this one's being pasted into Word, edited, printed and stored with your other great posts on Shock Tower repair, Pig Cheek Fabrication and Sun Roof Transplant.
These posts are truely FAQ-Section worthy
thanks for sharing...
gonna need a bigger binder
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[quote name=
Well' date=' now the original owner's son is heavily into booze and drugs,[/quote]
there's your mistake...
you didn't offer the right enticement
back then, a bag of weed probably would have done it....
pitiful may still be worth getting for the parts that you could off load.
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i recently shipped an 02 from Houston to Marin about a month ago. it is a non-runner, too. cost $1145. had the car within one week.
i went through a 3rd-party broker but the actual transporter goes by the name of Bluebird Transportation. his name is Steve, a Lebanese guy i think, and very nice. i can find out more if you are interested.
a lot of these car movers are folks who bought a trailer and are moving cars with their oversized pickup trucks. i'm seeing more and more of them on the roads these days. used to be a business dominated by the semi-trucks.
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yea, i'd have to admit that 02's are theraputic for me too. loosing my covered workshop last year has really been tough as i have had a hard time getting back to wrenching. i have two projects on the Project Page that i have not updated in a year!!!
it's to the point where i'm throwing out old sentimental crap i've held on to for years just to make enough room to squeeze a car into an enclosed area. i've even sold off a couple woodworking machines, to free up more space as i realize i enjoy the 02's more than woodworking now, (although hopefully i can return to that too, someday).
but i have been busy, just not 02-busy. i've delved into landscaping the property big time as those who've visited, can attest.
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i merely rotated mine 180 degrees
should be good for another 30 years, i hope
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i think that as long as there remain a sizeable pool of available cars that the value will track the old familiar 'supply and demand' curve.
furthermore, until people like me stop driving around town in POS 02's the cache of the 02 will continue to be depressed. I don't see many beat up vintage VW's anymore; not like the good 'ol days. or similarly, 356, 912's and most 911's seem in good shape.
my hero is a local elderly tiburon guy who's been driving the same 356C cabriolet around town for decades with original faded red paint and the hint of rust where the paint has thinned. i love that car, just the way it is. i'm sure he's turned down dozens of offers on that car.
as for 02's, another factor i'm sure will drive up the cost is that it's getting harder and harder to refresh rubber gaskets and such and replacing that stuff is getting more expensive. these cars will no longer be feasible for high-schoolers or cheap skates like me. i for one welcome 3rd party knock-offs.
duhhhhrrrrrrrr..... i think something's wrong with my car...
in BMW 2002 and other '02
Posted
i'd love to get the sheet metal between the two shock towers.
specifically, where there's that depression in the stamping. water accumulated in mine and rusted it through. only really need the driver's side.
i've got one parts car awaiting surgery but i'm torn as to how to cut it up to maximize useable sheetmetal. it's a real dilema for me.
wouldn't mind getting the driver's side frame rail too. save your rockers and floor pans.