jerry

you are going to need to get some forward and aft movement on the steering box input shaft to remove the rubber coupling (mini-guibo, i suppose). to do this, i find it's easiest to just 'bite the bullet' and free up your steering mechanism.

do this by unbolting the two bolts securing the ingnition armature assembly to the dash, then unbolt the four nuts holding the steering rod support bracket to the firewall. i think there's also one crimping clamp (don't know what else to call it) that has one 8 or 10mm bolt that needs to be loosened, too.

it's really not that much work. the underdash panels will need to be removed of course.

one the steering shaft is free to move you can unbolt two of the four nuts on the rubber steering coupler. wedge a cold chisel in the slot of one of the coupler brackets to open it up slightly as you knock the shaft rearward to liberate it from the bracket. At this point you should have a clear shot at the steering box to remove and repair.

installation is the reverse, as they say...

(nt)

i thought Karmann Ghia's were the poor man's porsche.

speaking of which, i occasionally see a nice DD Karmann Ghia commuting on 580 early mornings. i think the Ghia's are great looking, but no matter what you do to them, they'll always be an air-cooled 4-banger with a chintzy interior. 02 interiors are only modestly better.

you could not have choreographed this any better if you tried. i was merging onto 101Southbound in San Rafael on a hairpin onramp trying to avoid an SUV merging to get onto the exit lane. just as i was merging i looked in the adjacent lane to see a VERY nice Taiga right next to me. we swapped thumbs-up and cruised down 101 Southbound side-by-side for quite a while then alternated forward positions to better check each other's car out.

Fortunately, i was in my nephew's Atlantic Blue 75 02 that i sold him and not my daily beater, so at least my ride was presentable. oh, and we both sported original 'blue plates'.

we both took same exit ramp: he turning right to Mill Valley, me turning left to Tiburon.

anyone on this board?

i'm trying to resurrect what appears to be a minimal to no rust tii gas tank. i suspect the thick layer of varnished/tarry gas residue acted as a rust inhibitor. i've never seen such a disgusting layer of gunk in a gas tank.

does this stuff respond to boiling at a radiator shop? it's really thick. i've tried to scrape some of it out but there's no way i can reach all the nooks.

like the Bimmer Bros sale being discussed could quite easily be passed off as a legit tii, as well.

quote]

to clarify, the car i was referring to was indeed a legitimate tii from the factory and indeed, i was provided with all receipts dating back to the original receipt from the old Mill Valley Imports. Everything was original to the car except the passenger side inner and out fender, nosepiece and hood, salvaged from a non-tii 02. too bad because this particular car was about as rust-free as i've ever seen. sunroof too.

WHAT! "I just took delivery" another one jerry???

LAST ONE,..... I swear......

The Fjord is still next on my agenda, though. at least after i sort out my issues with the County Planners.

back on topic, i have a hard time accepting justification for manipulating a listing as was done which by a reasonable conclusion was meant to walk the fine line between truth and fiction. i guess this is indeed marketing. maybe i should buy those pills advertised on TV to shed excess body fat while still being able to enjoy ice cream. i think i'll jump into my 'sorta-tii' and drive down to the local pharmacy for a bottle of those fat pills.

The car was advertised as a tii, not one that had been converted.

Therefore the car is not what it is claimed. And an "expert" should disclose it. If I were the buyer and wanted a real Tii, then I would ask for a refund.

i saw that car on ebay and my immediate response upon closer inspection of the listing and realizing what was REALLY offered, was that this was a seller I'd choose never to do business with or alternatively, question everything.

unfortunately, we all live in the real world and we owe it to ourselves to be careful.

I sold a 73tii with Salvage title on ebay a couple years ago that otherwise would have passed for a really clean original survivor. i parted with the car after discovering that the whole passenger side inner fender was replaced after a crash (thus the Salvage title), resulting in the non-matching VIN. I validated the car with receipts and CHP/DMV inspection. The seller did not disclose the extent of the repair at the time and i did not think to look (i look now, everytime). I disclosed the repair in my ebay listing and was happy to get out of it what i put into it.

It went on sale on ebay a year or so later with no disclosure of the Salvage title or repair history. I'd have been pissed if i bought it and discovered that.

Point is, i probably left several thousand dollars on the table by disclosing those things but i can sleep well at night.

btw, i just took delivery on what i thought would be a real rust-bucket early-VIN 72tii on a 'hope and a prayer', and upon initial inspection when it arrived off the car transporter, i was very pleasantly surprised. so i guess everything sorta averages out.

up to what VIN number constitutes what is considered an early tii?

i have the impression that up to about 2760750, the tii's had slightly higher compression and that the rear differentials were geared to 3.45.

T/F?

based on what that other ebay non-tii car mentioned in another post, is getting, i'd say yes, definitely YES.

i'd take a very good survivor over a nuts and bolts restoration any day.

i love Fjord. can't wait to restore my rust-bucket 73tii originally delivered in Fjord.

but for all you folks thinking that you are sitting on an appreciating asset that's rusting away in you backyard, no way...

there's a long distance between these show-stoppers and the vast majority of 02's out there. we're not in league with the Porsche 356's where rusty ones go for real money.

OK, OK, can't argue with side by side physical comparison.

what i suspect has happened is that exhaust manifolds having emission bosses NOT drilled and tapped, but otherwise appearing like the real deal have been mistakenly (by myself and others, on ebay too) misidentified as tii manifolds.

perhaps these 'lookalikes' start life as replacement castings and don't go through the additional machine steps for emission stuff.

gotta be careful i suppose when choosing used equipment. i suppose this means i'm not really the proud owner of a tii exhaust manifold awaiting installation, afterall....?? sigh.....

folks, i've seen that photo from the My20002tii site several times and great mention is made of the larger appearing tubing, and maybe there is a casting lot floating about that really is a bit wider, but i have compared my tii exhaust manifolds (with no emission bosses drilled and tapped) with standard cast exhaust manifolds and they are IDENTICAL.

also, please note that in that particular photo shown in the posting above, the tii manifold LOOKS a fair bit larger. put a ruler next to them and it is obvious that the tii manifold is held closer to the camera and looks artificially longer and wider.

you're killing me.....

don't know about the alpina, but i'd sure like to have one of those ti's.

i'm gonna guess these toys are still across the pond.

maybe it's just KARMA MonsterM???

remember the "perfect" door panels i bought from you on ebay a year or so ago that showed up with a rip right next to the door lock pull-tab? very visible.

to add insult to injury, i was a bit miffed at your excessive shipping fee only to find these tears which rendered them not much better than the set i was trying to replace.

you pretty much suggested that i try pounding sand.

what comes around, goes around....

oxy hydrogen is used to gas weld aluminum

oh, okay. i stand corrected. however, it's certainly not pure H2. thanks. learned something new. we use Argon where i work.

Pure hydrogen is VERY explosive. Are you sure about using it for a welding gas?? It wants to combine with oxygen in a big way and liberates a fair bit of energy in the process.

i'm thinking you are confusing Hydrogen with the Noble gases such as He, Ar, Ne etc. Argon is used as a shield gas during welding. Never heard of Hydrogen for that purpose. In fact hydrogen embrittles steel.

the Hindenburg was filled with hydrogen when it exploded on its first trans-atlantic flight. they use helium now i think.

me too....

rho, who ya gonna use to rehab the CR 5spd. i've got one too of unknown provenance. i'm in n.calif.

the silver-dollar gauges were changed with the advent of the 12-fuse car sometime in mid 1971.

Personally, i consider having the original blue plates to be another distinguishing factor that those of us without them can only look longingly at. unlike some blingy-bobble that can be purchased and attached, once those plates are gone, they're gone. extra special bonus points for having a black plate car.

Dang PO of my Turf 68 1600 exchanged the original black plates for the personalized TADPOL. pity.

scoop wipers don't work above 95mph. Just a little FYI

they lift about 1/2 way up.

too bad none of us law-abiding citizens in good standing will ever experience that phenomenon.

heck, my 3.91 diff would have to spin like mad to attain that speed...

I've never done an engine build but if there was a process to follow I could probably build a jet engine, ya know.

i'm around people who rebuild jet engines all day and i know better than to even TRY to get involved in that process. the smaller the engine, the more critical the tolerances. for example the little 340HP helicopter engines spin at 51,000RPM with tip clearances of 0.008-0.012inch. the amount of measuring, balancing and aligning involved is mind-boggling. the larger engines are much more forgiving, btw.

sorry, WOT, my bad.

as i understand it, the 323i T/O bearing is appropriate for the 228mm flywheel/clutch assy as used on pre-74 cars.

the 320i T/O bearing is appropriate for use on the smaller diameter (forgot diameter...) flywheel/clutch assy as used on the squaretails.

since i'm assuming you have a 76 02, you're good as is.

I need to accept the fact that I made a mistake.I'll see the project through. .

don't feel bad. although i think you paid a fair bit of money for this particular car, i know the feeling. if it's an early VIN and rust is not too bad, you will have a nice car when finished. i bought a rust-bucket 73tii early on, during my re-acquaintance with these cars a couple years ago because i was enamored with the looks of the engine. i wish i could undo that purchase but we just have to move on.

i also suffer from wearing rose-colored glasses and typically see what is possible versus what is.... not necessarily profitable, but very satisfying when a project is completed.

if it were a base model 02 who cares.

I CARE!!!!

..... just so you know.

at the least, hold on to the original block for the next owner. i've passed on several nice 02's because of my stupid little idiosyncracy.

IT'S ME.....

IT'S ME I TELL YOU.

buoohhaaahahahhahah