jerry

i don't know about Mars, but i'm much more happy now...

way too much teasing about looking for this or that style of rim to apply.

for a neat pseudo rat-rod or Boranni look, remove the hubcaps.

i haven't installed mine yet and am leaning towards keeping it that way on my Malaga.

now, i do think those old 'teddy bear' rims are actually cool in a geeky sort of way.

i don't know about Mars, but i'm much more happy now...

way too much teasing about looking for this or that style of rim to apply.

for a neat pseudo rat-rod or Boranni look, remove the hubcaps.

i haven't installed mine yet and am leaning towards keeping it that way on my Malaga.

now, i do think those old 'teddy bear' rims are actually cool in a geeky sort of way.

my BIGGEST hope:

to finally get the building permit to complete my carport/garages

everything else takes 2nd fiddle to that. the loss of an enclosed workshop to tinker in has really stifled my 02 work.

next up is to respray my Malaga and drive it.

reinstall the engine/5spd into my Chaminox.

start on the Fjord tii resto.

help my friend's son on his 75 02 refurbishment.

dig and install the sewer line.

dig and install water and electrical conduit for outdoor lighting.

someday move to the beach....

my BIGGEST hope:

to finally get the building permit to complete my carport/garages

everything else takes 2nd fiddle to that. the loss of an enclosed workshop to tinker in has really stifled my 02 work.

next up is to respray my Malaga and drive it.

reinstall the engine/5spd into my Chaminox.

start on the Fjord tii resto.

help my friend's son on his 75 02 refurbishment.

dig and install the sewer line.

dig and install water and electrical conduit for outdoor lighting.

someday move to the beach....

if you have the original shift platform and shift rod, you should include those as well. i bought a C/R 5spd off ebay about a year ago w/ D/S and shift linkage. it's a crap shoot on ebay but i paid about $1700 shipped. i was happy to see the original BMW OEM orange part sticker still intact on the housing, though.

if you have the original shift platform and shift rod, you should include those as well. i bought a C/R 5spd off ebay about a year ago w/ D/S and shift linkage. it's a crap shoot on ebay but i paid about $1700 shipped. i was happy to see the original BMW OEM orange part sticker still intact on the housing, though.

generally, chrome-moly refers to minute amounts of chromium and molybdenum added to steel to increase hardenability, especially in thicker sectioned parts. you will not gain any weight savings with these alloys over plain carbon steel. you will generally gain higher strength and toughness when heat treated properly.

i doubt that any manufacturer of roll bars is using anything but these cr-mo type steel tubes such as 4140 or with Ni addition 4340.

generally, chrome-moly refers to minute amounts of chromium and molybdenum added to steel to increase hardenability, especially in thicker sectioned parts. you will not gain any weight savings with these alloys over plain carbon steel. you will generally gain higher strength and toughness when heat treated properly.

i doubt that any manufacturer of roll bars is using anything but these cr-mo type steel tubes such as 4140 or with Ni addition 4340.

Guilty as charged...

turned out the problem was simply a poor positive battery cable. replaced it with new and the starter spun like new.

only problem, was that in my haste i replaced the starter with an older unit lying around. damn if the teeth were slightly worn enough to grind on my flywheel. argghhh......

soooo..... got to spend some quality time in the drizzling rainy cold reinstalling my perfectly good original starter.

you haven't experienced the Zen of 02 Wrenching until you've installed then removed an older, big-assed 02 starter in such tight quarters.

bonus points for installing the uppermost bolt if you have a water-cooled choke fitting attached to the engine block.

henceforth, i will replace any old big-assed starter with the smaller bosch units currently available. they even have more clearance to use a socket with on the mounting flange.

thank you very much for the information. i'm on my way to replace both wire cables off the battery as a 2nd pair of eyes described them as poor condition, despite my opinion to the contrary. i'm learning all the time...

will update as to my results when they occur.

hopefully, this lesson will implant into my brain for future reference.

If that section of harness is getting hot it means current is trying to ground through it instead of through the ground strap, as that is the next easiest path back to ground from the block to the chassis. I would just replace the ground strap now. If you let it go, you can melt that whole section of the harness and fry your alternator and regulator. Trust me, I've fixed that mess before...

that makes the most sense. are you referring to the small ground between the alternator and timing cover, or the ground strap from the battery (-) to engine block? will look into that tomorrow. gave it a rest today to work on my Malaga project for the first time in months.

Did you check/clean your battery terminals? What kind of condition are your cables in?

Cris

they're spotless... cables are vintage, but appear intact. suppose i could verify with a continuity check. i should expect 0 ohms if i measure resistance from one end to the other, right? i'm not the most electrically literate wrench.

the grounds appear clean and unencumbered as far as i can see. the mystery area for me right now is the wire bundle from the regulator to the alternator. it's in its original rubbery/gooey sleeve and i'm just about ready to cut it open for a look.

this car was so well behaved prior to this. no prior warning. i've got a spare starter lying around, so for the amount of time it'll take to swap out, i can chance it.

well, after 2 weeks of inactivity, it started up after a few cranks, but was generally uneventful. i let it warm up for a bit then turned it off. about an hour or so later i noticed that it was significantly slower in cranking, but was able to get it to turn over.

parked it for the evening and unfortunately, can not get it started today. it is very slow in cranking. the dummy alternator light does NOT come on.

the battery measures 12.58V and goes to 10.5V while cranking. it returns to 12.5V after cranking.

the noticed that the 3-prone plug wire from the alternator is getting hot after cranking.

i drove it last night and revved it up quite a bit thinking i have a charging issue but i'm starting to think my starter is going bad.

btw, can't seem to get it started to pull the 3-prong plug while running as was suggested in another post to troubleshoot.

is a new starter motor in my immediate future?? ideas??

email sent. thanks for your interest

[

I'm not disagreeing with you. I just can't afford to do both.

I'd really hate to sell all the turbo stuff I've been collecting, too.

well, seems like you got yourself into a pickle. of those of us who've responded, it appears that the majority is hoping you keep this car original, and i agree.

there are still plenty of shells and half-baked unfinished projects available to do your turbo swap later, at another time, but, as has been stated, (since you asked, btw), this is a rare survivor.

why not just swallow up the purchase and delivery cost for the time being and put this guy in the corner under wraps. FINISH your current project and get the Turbo out of your system then reassess your options. you'll be saving a potential collector's item by NOT messing with it, and you can get the satisfaction of actually COMPLETING a project. the danger is, is that you could disassemble this car, then "life gets in the way" and you are stuck with two disassembled projects. i'm speaking from experience, btw. although, i do eventually complete what i start.

i noticed that the "radius rod" or whatever i've seen it referred to here and in the Haynes manual, is threaded.

what's up with that? looks like it's been there for awhile. i suppose this allows you to adjust your control arms forward or aft, slightly.

also, i don't see the reason for the newfangled configuration of the front swaybar. all the loading on that Moment-arm applied to those little welds on the attachment bracket. perhaps it's easier to install, maybe?

very nice old-skool look...

the alternative to highpriced Borrani/Alpina steelies

i do like that look

i refinished a set of stock steel rims for my car and never got around to installing the hubcaps and the more i look at them, the more i like the raw look of the naked rims. i think having fresh paint makes the difference.

email sent.

you're not getting off that easy. you are going to have to hand deliver that fireshield to me using that high-falutin, monster you've created. then you're gonna have to take me for a spin on Paradise Drive.

this can wait. order the piece before it becomes NLA, though

i have a similar opinion of POR-15. i think it should be rechristened "POS-15", personally. i think it's too brittle to be of any long-lasting benefit. i have used DuPont epoxy sealer with good results. it is a 2 part epoxy coating that appears to adhere well to cleaned metal. i have components exposed to the Bay Area fog with no discernable degradation, YET (knocking on wood).

i was able to peel the POS-15 from my windshield area with little resistance. that was enough for me. if moisture got under it it could actually exascerbate the problem.

i am also a fan of rubberized undercoating available in spraycans. it stays sufficiently pliable to withstand the inevitable dings and minor expansion/contraction/vibration issues.

btw, a post a couple weeks ago from a fellow FAQ'er lamenting the appearance of rust bubbles after only 1 year from a professional paint job enticed me to inspect my amatuer paint job that is currently outside under cover and tarps and within close proximity to the SF Bay. I am happy to report, no rust bubbles found, YET (again, knocking on wood). i attribute that to cutting out rust spots and s couple applications of epoxy sealer/primer before actual primer and paint.

another example for consideration:

http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,50/page,viewtopic/t,283064/highlight,/

I am changing over my dash and want to use the old knobs and switches, but I'm having a terrible time getting the knobs off the switches. Do they unscrew from the post or is there some secret I haven't figured out yet?

Kurt Strause

most of the knobs unscrew easily, however, there is one (i believe it's the blower motor knob), that you must carefully pry off the aluminum cover disk to expose a small nut that needs to be removed. if the knob does not unscrew easily, that's why.

very nice job tom. the whole project is just too intimidating to consider for myself. can't wait to hear your opinion of how much different it is from what your previous engine did. you'll have a car to last you well into dimentia...

should you be so inclined and have a piece of 3/16 - 1/4 inch thick steel stock lying around, it's possible to fabricate a flywheel lock that'll hold the crank while loosening the crank nut.

i merely took a Sharpie pen and layed the plate next to the flywheel gears and marked where i needed to cut teeth. a cheap grinder and cutoff wheel was what i used to cut the recesses for the teeth. used a small file to fine tune the fit. then i located and drilled two holes corresponding to the starter motor mounts on the engine block which i use to clamp the flywheel lock on.

took about 15-20 minutes to fabricate and works like a charm. i've even loaned it out. you can buy similar tool, but making do is so much more satisfying for me.

many aeroengine gearboxes are painted on the inner surface. even some car engine blocks. if it was properly prepped for paint, don't sweat it.