jerry

i noticed that listing too and was very excited by the prospect until i considered the side indicators on the fenders, and bulging turn signal lenses. maybe they're replacement fenders, maybe they're not, but a genuine ti shouldn't have them.

however, if it's got dual carbs and been christened a ti, then at least the value of the carbs is worth the cost of entry.

then again, it could be like that Turbo back east that was just too good to be true,...

and had us all groaning when it was confirmed REAL.

wow, steve, i didn't make the connection it was you and actually bypassed the post at first. the timing is very creepy if you think about it. someone's watching out for you.

for the other readers: steve and i had just discussed the DAY BEFORE why he was replacing his lowback seats with recarros he was buying from me, because of his concern over commuting with a car lacking headrests. this event gives me pause over my appreciation for the appearance of lowback seats versus steve's reality.

if your rear subframe or trailing arms are bent i can provide you free replacement. unfortunately, i don't have a spare set of rear shock towers to provide as i need them (but you are welcome to use them for measurement/reference/alignment purposes). please try to save that original "black plate" car. the damage does not look THAT bad from this distance.

if you have the room to store em, i'd keep the front and rear subassemblies. it's so nice to be able to rehab a spare set while you still keep your car driveable. you can take your time cleaning and repainting the strut assemblies; rebush everything and put it all back together in anticipation of replacing it all someday, as one complete, clean unit.

btw, i have yet to see a front subframe without a cracked engine mount. prep/reinforce your spare to be prepared.

i'd keep the emergency brake handle and cut out the butter-dish that holds it. they are on the flimsy side and a spare lying around is insurance.

thank god 02's havn't increased in value like that......yet......

when cars get that expensive they start becoming objectified show pieces instead of thrashed, lovingly driven romances

agreed....

i used to LOVE the old 356's and for a brief moment owned a rust bucket back in 1987, but being a poor student at the time and the (then) scarcity of parts, set me straight. was a time a used 356 could be had for about $800-1500. my brother had two convertibles at the same time in the mid 70's that he paid no more than $900 each for. my father gave them away to get rid of them.

now those 356's are so inflated that i no longer covet them as i once did. still like em, but would never buy one.

i, too, hope the 02's stay affordable. if i want an investment i'll play the stock market (i do, btw). save the porsches, ferraris etc., for the moneyied-class. i'm sure, in time these 02's will start to rise in value, but never to the extent of the porsches. the fit and finish just is not up to par on the 02's like they were in the 356's. i understand that up to 1968, all Porsches body panels and doors were fitted by hand, to perfection.

CD is spot-on with his advice. this car is overpriced and your situation is not appropriate with street parking only.

i lived in indpls for 6 years. i had a 69 Chevy C20 pick-em-up truck that i brought up with me from atlanta. i bought this truck originally in lynchburg virginia and worked hard to slow/stop the rust. the rust barely grew in the 3 years i was in atlanta. the rust returned with a vengence within 6 MONTHS of living in indpls. it was painful to watch. it was a great truck and i hated to see it waste away. i eventually donated it to charity rather than bring it with me to california, in spite of a rebuilt motor, brakes and alot of work.

as stated, you'll loose that 02 in a hurry if its subjected to street parking in winter. if the price were more like $600 i'd say do it. that's how much i originally paid for my truck in lynchburg, btw.

should you ever troll within the San Francisco Bay drop by. i've a sandy beach to float up on. i'd love to find a vintage Boston Whaler someday. nice looking boat.

im beginning to think buying crap online isnt the best way

yea,

i wouldn't trust anyone who'd sell stuff over the internet. gotta be crap...

sorry, couldn't let that slide.

i'd be interested in one. i'm not concerned with authenticity so much as functionality and decent appearance.

wow, that's a lot of reading and dedication. there is a wealth of information among the posts of this site.

i too have compiled a rather large binder of info too valuable to loose. i'm on my 2nd upgraded binder at this point.

i typically will cut and paste a thread into a MS Word document and then delete avatars, nonessential comments and signature blocks to save paper.

i consider it as important as the Workshop Manual, maybe even more so.

i had a center-link that got sloppy and made a clunking sound. if you haven't checked it yet, do so, just in case.

the pivot points are designed to get loose within their housing rather than fatigue crack apart. clever design i think, as long as you act upon its warning.

i use a floorjack to raise and lower it to the appropriate spot. where i place the door on the jack determines the pivot-point, so to speak, which allows another degree of adjustment relative to the two hinges.

i'm able to do this without assistance using this method. use a cusion to rest it upon.

once you have the door centered appropriately within the opening you can loosen your door-latch mechanism and play with the alignment of the latch and catch.

you don't need no stinking A/C.

i survived Hotlanta with a 74 02 and non-functioning A/C, but admittingly, i did try like hell to make it (the Frigiking) work....

just clean and re-grease and adjust your window regulators.

as i recall, my old '68 VW Bug keys were similarly shaped.

must be a german thing....

ah....

it's only a flesh wound.....

my apologies to monty python fans

speaking only for myself, i consider salvage title cars less appealing. unless you have a very rare exotic one-of -kind car, the salvage title will decrease resale.

however, as MOST 02's are not collectible to the extent that the 356 Porches have become, don't rebuild ANY common 02 with any hope of reaping a tidy payoff in the end.

money is made by the parts and suppliers to the car hobby. think of how much Eastwood's has grown since i used to get small pamphlets of their products in the mail. now they're a full fledged business with glossy catalogs.

salvage title cars are good platforms to rebuild a car that you will enjoy DRIVING without an obsession to replace everything with new. enjoy it as is or sell it to someone who may or may not repair it or part it out.

wow, you're gonna have a tailgate too???

i am so jealous. as big as the trunks are, i could always use more space. would love to have someone make one of these from a squaretail car someday. i think the bigger bumpers would be more in keeping with the 'heft' of a truck. now all you need is a lumber rack and a gun rack.

easy Rapdi city Sd to Refugio TX

Rear wheels down please.

tried the out way and did a 4 wheel drift on I 80 . Big truck pass me @ 90mph and I did the down the mittle in the dirt sideways @ 70. Re loaded it frt first no more problems

did you have to change your shorts too????

i thought i could be lazy and rely on the steering lock to hold the front wheels steady. about 3 miles down Highway 80 in Berkeley/Albany car began swaying slightly back and forth. there was enough play in the front suspension to cause trouble.

yeah, i should of known better.... pulled over and tied the steering wheel securely with no other problems. i always tow on the rear wheels.

i've used Gary's Sandblasting in San Leandro, off Williams Street. i was quoted a while back $700 to blast a bare 02 shell, once.

a coworker has used Meyer's sand blasting in oakland. there is a bodyshop nearby where you can coordinate to have it primed afterwards. don't recall the name offhand.

don't know about a '69 02

but i DO remember when an older sister drove up in her shiny new '74 Malaga automatic with sunroof and gave my father and me a ride in it.

i recall she said she paid about $6000 for it at the time, to the horror of my father, who considered such expenses, needless extravagance.

do NOT replace your original air filter with aftermarket crap. there is much more available surface area for air filtering with the OEM configuration than those puny little K&N chrome boxes.

You should also get the rubber elephant trunk and plastic airbox that's missing to channel cooler air from the front of car into carburetor.

the condition of the engine bay paint actually looks good from this distance. clean as best as possible with mineral-spirit-soaked rag then rinse as best as possible with soapy water. rub some car wax on it and you should be pleasantly surprised.

use cloth friction tape to rewrap your wiring harness after removing the vintage oil soaked tape. i avoid those black hard plastic wiring tubes. they just don't look neat to me.

i don't think you have that much to do to actually see great results. it all depends on how much you are willing to scratch your knuckles cleaning grease and rewiring your harness.

that "George Jetson" car is cool beyond words. although, personally, i'd be too self-concious to drive such a car.

is it just me, or is that car just too garish.

the appeal of the 02's for me was the 'wolf in sheep's clothing' aspect.

if a pile of money were to fall out of the sky and into my lap i'd be interested in buying one, i'd just not want it to scream "go fast car"

i've used the Turbine guns and i like them. i use it with an Accuspray gun and was able to adjust the spray pattern as necessary. they are a bit loud (like a cheap vacuum cleaner, which they actually are, in reverse). it took me awhile to do it right, but i think that was more due to inexperience in general.

using them eliminates the need to filter air for moisture and/or oil as needed with compressed air systems. they are suitable for the DIY'er, but i don't think professional shops would deal with them.

and yes, a gravity-fed gun is the best option.

Tom aka Grover,

i've got a new one in Tiburon if you want to get it ASAP then you can merely replace it when you get another.

i don't have access to yahoo at work so i'll be able to check in the evening if you're interested.

jerryallsmanATyahooDOTcom

it's well worth the effort to remove the 60lbs of dead weight from a dead A/C unit. give yourself a full afternoon to remove the system.

remove your front grills.

jack the front up high because some of the brackets are easier to access from underneath.

you may have to loosen the front swaybar to get a little more clearance when you get the compressor free from the engine block. you will probably replace a couple longer bolts with shorter ones when you remove the A/C related brackets, inorder to secure the lower timing cover to the block. after 30 or so years, expect some difficulty loosening the hoses from their attachment points.

take your time, it's not rocket science.