jerry

very nice work brian.

i definitely like the cleaner look with the missing lower trim and rear trim piece. it must be nice to be you right now!!!

outstanding work martin. this is a car for the next generation, too. i just lost my covered workspace and am dealing with the stress of moving ALL my 02 goodies to cramped space. it's gonna be a bear finding bits n pieces now.

i think you are a shoe-in for most patience award...

i hope the ti makes an appearance at the yearly Palo Alto meet. i remember when that car showed up on eBay a couple years ago. i just so happened to be in Meridian Mississippi at the time, on a 3 day business trip, and seriously considered driving the 2 hours to inspect it.

I have what appears to be a 1600/1800 motor with flat top pistons as well as a 121 head. Could be a good combo and I'm close. Drop me an e-mail if you are interested.

just wondering out loud...

doesn't a 121 Head pertain to the 2.0L engine only?

Also if the 1.6L is so hard to get does anybody have an extre 2.0L laying around?

i have a 2.0L short block you can have if you're willing to drive to Marin. All i want is the newish-looking Head and timing cover that is attached to it. i'll give it to you for free. i bought it at the PicknPull thinking it too, was new, but it's only been steam cleaned.

it's a pity i tossed my 1.6L engine block and flywheel earlier this year, would have rather found a home for it. let me know on the engine block, it was from an early 320i.

jerryallsmanATyahooDOTcom

now THAT's a modified 02 i can really get excited about. i'd love to have an 02 truck-ette. man am i jealous...

i'm always amazed at what i can stuff into an 02 trunk, but an 02 truck-ette raises that to a whole new level.

keep us posted. would be great to publish a 'how-to'.

i noticed what appearred to be clear reinforced Tygon tubing used for radiator hose in your photo. Why? are you happy with it and are you substituiting it for all your hose needs? is it cheaper alternative?

although i am not familiar with either nomenclature,

as an educated guess i will assume that 30/40 refers to grit size and would be considered very coarse. more suitable for removing carbon buildup on exhaust manifold internal surfaces and heavy rust on thick walled sections.

stick with glass bead for general use. it is typically around 220 grit

set at 40-80psi and you should be fine.

clean off all grease and oil first to prolong life of media. oily grit is worthless and doesn't flow well.

are those lights those annoying bright lights with the purplish tint to them?

i hate those lights as they seem to flicker when the car hits a bump or some such.

in fact, just this morning i had to take a double look to determine if some cop had his flashers on, only to discover it was merely a car hitting a bump with those overly bright, purplish-tinted lights installed.

did i mention i hate them....?

they're worst of all when the headlights are adjusted too high or worse yet, when you are in front of a big 4WD truck. i always try to rotate my rearview mirror to shine it back in their eyes. don't know if i'm successful or not when i do that.

i've heard of people running a drop of oil along a wire to position oil on the bushing. it should roll like a bead on a string.

as far as wheels go, seeing as you have original blue plates and steering wheel, try repainting the steelies you have and leave the hubcaps OFF. it's a great look that has grown on me after failing to reinstall my hubcaps on my refurbished steelies.

i consider it the alternative to Borani steelie look.

i'd say that's a fair price for just the carbs and a much better buy with the intake manifolds and a GREAT buy if the airbox is truely for the 02ti and not the more common 2000ti airbox (which would have to be modified to fit). if you also got the NLA linkage then you made out very well.

i've kept track of pricing while assembling my 'bunch o parts'.

well, out of all the ratty 02's i've encountered this is the first with the advanced banana deficiency warning system installed.

where is the reset button to indicate that i've ingested an appropriate amount of banana substance? i typically eat a sliced banana with my morning oatmeal, but i did indeed run out of bananas at about the same time i noticed this dim light which is activated once car is started.

interestingly, when i activate the turn signals, i believe another intermittant light comes alive.

ment cluster signify? i think it has a greenish glow to it.

this is a 76 02, btw.

it is NOT the big red Brake light (which is also constantly on).

now THAT is a car i can really ***drool*** over. i love those original cars. Congratulations on a wonderful find. the previous owner obviously cared for this car.

that battery looks like it could power an electric submarine. can't imagine how much lead it contains.

now where exactly is Vigo?

i had this exact same question on my way to work this morning with my recently 'returned-to-service' 02.

all i can offer is an intuitive answer since the distributer rotates clockwise, rotating it counter-clockwise would engage the lobes on the shaft sooner wrt the plastic contact surface on the points, right???

that's my thinking on the subject, anyway.

additionally, anyone know what direction i need to rotate distributer to minimize/eliminate backfiring when letting off the throttle or downshifting?

i used a timing light but was unable to see small ball bearing. what i did see was a scribed line that had been painted red. it's a 76 btw, with a factory replacement engine (no VIN on block).

list your parts on eBay and let us all fight each other over 'em.

you're talking to a bunch of circling sharks here...

not 02 related, but....

i miss the times when i could stuff ALL my belongings into and onto my 68 VW Bug, back in college.

my recent move to a new apartment took a couple truckloads....

...and that does not include my workshop and carparts, yet to be moved to my new carport being built.

there's a certain freedom in living "light". downsizing on Craigslist and eBay is my new committment to myself.

Yes, the neighborhood is less than great, but honestly I've never had any trouble there. I leave NOTHING in my car and just walk with purpose. As for the prices at the lot, it's seems a lot to do with the person working the register. Today was a good score, I got a round VDO washer bottle for $2, $1 for a shift boot, and a few other small odds and ends. I also pulled the ECU for an E30 for a friend and paid only $22. All in all, a pretty good day.

yea, once i cross the railroad tracks towards the yard i feel more secure. i have no concerns with the safety within the yard or parking lot.

as for cashiers, AVOID the blonde guy with the wimpy beard. i think he gets paid on commission, or evaluated on sales.

points/condenser connects @#1 coil. These 2 wires should make the ignition spark. Use a digital voltage meter to test the wires if you want to know whats going on.

BINGO. YOU ARE MY HERO.......

it started right up.

it's purring as i type.

gonna take it for a ride right now!!!!!!!!!!

i used to like visiting that P&P on occasion but i've noticed two things that keep me away.

a)driving through the neighborhood from the Marin side is getting very intimidating. it's getting really rough. i have some co-workers who've lived on the edge of the neighborhood on Gertrude street for several years and they even moved.

the cashiers at that particular P&P are much more picky with pricing than the Oakland site. the pricing is CONSIDERABLY higher. "oh, you wanted that ratty old rubber tubing attached to that plastic radiator overflow tank, the one identical to 10 million other ones in the yard?"

thanks for the heads-up though.

no, they are the same

check the easy stuff first. make sure the nipple in the bottom of the dist cap is good. Take a meter and make sure that the rotor is good...

just compared the new rotor with a used one and the resistance on both was about 5ohms

the distributor cap, although used is in very nice condition. carbon nipple is fine.

i think the key is determining why the small wire between the points and condenser is heating up.

as a follow up to yesterday's plea for help, i replaced the distributer with another used unit which still had the small grounding wire intact.

i removed smog wires.

i installed one wire from No.12 to (-) side of coil (terminal 1 on the Bosch blue coil)

i installed the black wire that comes from the OEM harness to the (-) side of coil.

i installed one wire from the (+) side of coil (terminal 15) to the solenoid valve on the weber carb.

after turning the ignition several times and not even getting a cough i inspected the distributer to notice that the plastic on the small wire between the points and the condenser has melted.

distributer installed with the rotor pointing to the notch on its housing, camshaft notch in line with oil tube rod on head. spark plug wires installed in accordance to firing order on valve cover in clockwise rotation. condenser is new. point gap is 0.016in

it is a Bosch blue coil with no external resister or starter relay installed.

what am i missing? comparing the starter relay and external resistor on my '73 indicates colored wires that don't exist on this 76, ie grn-red etc.

this is driving me crazy.

i've got battery ground from engine block to neg terminal on battery with a smaller braided ground wire attaching to area adjacent to the relays above battery, with the harness grounds too.

thanks in advance

it's a blue coil btw. wish they'd use + or -

anyhow, i'm not getting spark.

verified TDC on Camshaft mark and notch in distributor housing and crankcase pulley.

held No.1 sparkplug up to valve cover while assistant turned key. sparks did not fly...

i swapped over from red coil to blue coil because i don't have a ballast resistor. i desmogged this 76 and ran a wire from No.12 fuse to what i HOPE is the neg. side of coil. and another wire from + side (i think) of coil to solenoid valve on Weber 32/36.

checked point gap: 0.015-0.016ish

spark plugs look okay.

this car did run before i desmogged it and removed the PO hack wiring. the OEM wiring harness was in VERY nice condition beneath all the other added wires. there was a funky potentiometer used as the ballast resister for the red coil. looks like they salvaged it from the airconditioner or something.

gonna swap out distributer this evening when it cools down. i noticed a grounding wire is weak between housing and platform. never noticed that wire before till i compared with other distributor.