jerry

check for LS Differential, too.

pull the 1/2 shafts for LSD conversion at a later date.

keep the front section of the driveshaft for 5 spd conversion inorder to weld forward end to 02 driveshaft.

of course check the tranny and keep if 5 spd.

that year front hubs will need tii struts.

deskin the rear seat covers to match your new fronts.

hold on to the engine if you have the space. and the radiator, alternator.

did i miss anything?

some folks pull the sunvisors and rear view mirror and if you are lucky the door mirrors are the metal flag-type as used on 02s.

More info please?

Some idiot almost rear ended me in the middle of the day. Not to mention he didn't even try swerving to any of the two open lanes next to him. Just aimed at me and hit the brakes.

wow, i hope you weren't driving that beautiful 02 of yours at the time.

is a 75 or under.

took the words right out of my "keystrokes"....

buy a beater, rustbucket, POS 75 or 74 and title it, then do a VIN-up restoration on your 76.

i bought a 76 a while ago as a parts car then couldn't bring myself to scrapping such a potential 'year-round' driver. i was lucky to find a POS 75 for $200 (which, fortunately, even I will scrap).

there's something to be said about having a rat-rod squaretail to just drivearound in and not worry about parking lots or the delicate nose.

the "roundies-only" crowd will never know.

they have moved to Atlanta Road in Smyrna, GA just NE of Atlanta. .

hey, isn't smyrna NW of atlanta....? i used to work in Vinings, on Overlook hill, No.7 IIRC. restored my 1st 02 out there.

sorry, WOT

sounds like that guy in canada who let two ti's rot into the ground rather than part them out or facillitate importing them to the US. that was a true heartbreak for me at the time.

your texas ti sounds like it was a neat car at one time. if it's not rusting away i'm sure he'll find someone to throw money at him someday. at any rate, it's not gonna be a fire-sale or barn find car.

i bought my 97% mint chrome-trimmed dash with underpanels (they are unique to the dash) for around $500 and another $250 to ship it from england with insurance (yes it's LHD). bought it from Jon_UK a fellow FAQer.

with the exception of the underpanels you can recreate that type of dash by cutting a normal 3-piece dash just above the heater vents, straight across (i believe that's all the factory did). Then you'll need the trim pieces which includes a built-in ashtray. it's good trim that will make the deal.

btw, Pat, if that guy ever decides to part with the shell and you don't want it, let me know. i have everything i need to clone one except an authentic shell, VIN and engine block.

if your ball joints are still riveted. replace them, it's time.

also on the list of to do while you have easy access is the idler arm bushings (might as well, i feel).

your center link and end links can be replaced at your discretion, later.

as for control arm bushings i found the following technique useful

click here:

http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,50/page,viewtopic/t,283064/highlight,/

also check out the nice writeup with photos on the FAQ Construction directory by bill williams.

replacing the control arm bushings is a much less expensive alternative to buying two new arms with bushings. how much is your time worth?

the only area i lubed were the two giant bolts that hold the control arms to the subassembly.

don't forget to inspect your motor mount (by the steering box) for cracks.

tail car, once the dang threaded part starts spinning with the nut???

this cheapskate is afraid what the answer might be...

i don't have any needlenose vice grips to hold the thread.

okay, i did a search and checked the FAQ construction site. didn't find complete story for my needs.

just want verification.

Question: When removing ALL the smog related items from the engine bay i must make the following two connections: T/F?

1) wire from the (+) Coil to the Solenoid Cutoff Switch (Weber 32/36)

2) wire from No.12 Fuse to (-) Coil

and of course, plug up all the ports on the intake manifold and exhaust manifold.

this car (76, btw) has a RED Bosch Coil so no external resistor needed (correct?) and there's no starter relay like my 71 has, either.

it appears that most of the monkeying on the wire harness from the PO was done to the emission harness as the remaining harness looks to be fairly intact.

thanks in advance

brian, did you get your rear seat recovered yet? you'll need to show off the fronts to the upholstery guy. i'm sure he'd like to see em. he'll be an old man before he ever gets to see where my set ended up.

i'm sorting out my 'soon-to-be-re-VINed' 76 02, as the most likely driveable 02, in the shortest amount of time right now. seeing yours just made me stop for a moment and pick a wrench up. i dropped 60lbs of air conditioning dead weight last 2 nights and will remove the smog crap and clean up the cobbled wiring harness. i'll return to the Malaga car when the dust settles a bit around here.

those clusters, the smaller bumpers and the lack of lower trim are the reasons i really like the 6-fuse cars the best!

saw a nice early chaminox on 880 south this morning on my way to work. nice armco bumper guard and 'blue plate' to boot.

ground up restoration......?

$17.5K opening bid.

gotta pay the mortgage down somehow i suppose

yea right.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BMW-2002-BMW-2002-Tii_W0QQitemZ170138272655QQihZ007QQcategoryZ42601QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

great news brian. glad it was something silly after all.

now, about that pump and injectors.....

anyhow, i think you really put together a great looking package with your car and you know what a 'fuddy-duddy' i can be, to actually admit that. it really looks good, and i mean that.

now, if only i could find the time to figure my charging issue out, and get it resprayed....

quick question on this setup... where do you pick up the vacuum advance for the dizzy?

Len

the original dual carb 02 was the 02ti and it had a mechanical advance distributor with a slightly different advance curve than the tii distributor.

Bosh number: 0 231 129 033

btw, nice illustrations Fernando. these should be saved on the FAQ for reference.

brian, rob a bank or bounce a check but do whatever it is you need to do to get that car driveable.

you are sooooooo close and it really looks like soooooo much fun awaits you. i wouldn't be able to tolerate myself if i left something like that in my driveway.

move it........

brian, you got that car sorted out yet??????

nice shot. i'd be showing that off too.

i've got a charging issue and lack of time keeping my car off the road. what's your excuse?

i usually adjust my valves by hand instead of a feeler gauge

huh????

care to elaborate on that?

i have a set of OEM pads, unused for 74-76 cars, that i bought off ebay a year or so ago. you can have them for what i paid which is about half what you were quoted. front seats only, complete padding

jerryallsmanATyahooDOTcom

wish my cats would drag something like that in....

worthless bastards.

all i get from them is kitty crap, vomit, mouse entrails and demands for food.

first requirement is CLEAN cu wire. swab with methanol or isopropyl alcohol to clean any residue if you suspect oil contamination.

apply a dab of flux to cu wire.

apply your solder tip to the cu wire and allow it to heat up then touch the solder to the heated wire. the solder should wick up towards the colder part of the wire.

correction: the solder will wick FROM the colder area TOWARDS the hotter area.

this method works great for copper plumbing too, btw

i'm a fan for simple looking steel rims.

wow, that looks great.

Please tell me you've painted a car before or that you were under close supervision. i'm feeling really inadequate right about now when considering my first attempt to paint a car.....

Malaga is one of those colors that have really grown on me. excellent job.

cheers

there's a couple neat items on it that i can see.

3 out of 4 rims look like Ronals

Dash appears to be an 8 out of 10 in condition w/ no fasten seat belt sign

steering wheel looks neat

the motor may or may not be terminal. you'd be surprised what can be made to turn over again.

pull up the carpet or look underneath for rust to determine whether it's the sum of its parts or a project.

i think $200-400 is in the ballpark.

BUT. if you are new to 02's, unless you have space, patience, mechanical leanings, and spending money, don't start the hunt with a parts car.

i'm about to reinstall a set of gold-colored springs on my latest project and these removed from a scrapped car i had. they are from Suspension Techniques and are essentially the same as ST's current offerings, just a different 80's era color scheme.

yep, sounds like you've got a handle on the cause. you shouldn't need any sealant on the shim plates.

i use a small cold chisel to wedge open the couplings by tapping it in the slot, inorder to seat them onto the splined shaft. use a little never-sieze on the splines too.

except for the fact that the tightening bolt will only fit if alighned with the narrowed section of the steeringbox input shaft; i'm wondering if the steering column is too far forward. i believe there is some forward-aft alignment under the steering wheel area.