jerry

did you install the Garlock Seals (plastic ones) square with the edges, check for any burrs or gashes that may locally disturb the metal (i had to file a small bump off the lowest seal bore due to damage from the pitman arm puller).

additionally, i use some Permatex white paste sealer on the threads of the bolts during assembly as some of those holes are through holes. haven't had a leak on the two i've installed, so far.

aaaaarrrrrrggggghhhhhh!!!!!!!!

i saw those on Craigslist this morning and i couldn't get my fingers on the phone fast enough.....

i called within 30 minutes of his posting so you must of been right on them after he posted.

you stole them at $60 for all four plus tires.

i left a voicemail offering the guy $100 for them.

nice purchase. i'll never be able to look at Mae West the same now.....

cheers

what you are showing has nothing to do with the air conditioning system.

the bracket with the round plastic bushing is attached to the firewall just behind the carburetor. the accelerator rod (or whatever the exact name is) is supported on one end through that bushing.

the other bracket with the clamplike plastic fitting i would guess supports the original colored rubber tubing that is/was part of the emissions system.

My guess is that 02 related items are not on Armond's mind right now. rumor has it that his wife was giving birth to their fourth child today. no word as of yet.

anyhow, let's all hope armond does not trade in his 02 for a minivan that smells of kiddie vomit.

been way too long since i updated this project, but only because i've been working on my late 71 02 so much. anyway, that car is driveable, so my attention turns to this car.

i'm taking small steps, but forward progress nonetheless. front windshield reinstalled. i'm having a little fitment issues with this non-OEM seal, but i think i might be able to work it out.

i've installed the fireshield pad and am currently reassembling the front suspension. brake lines have been cleaned up and ready for reinstallation.

i'm gonna go with a slightly modified suspension on this car, to include Bilstien struts, ST Springs, 19mm sway bars and urethane bushings (swaybar only).

i will likely install a 5spd and probably a LS differential, since i have a couple lying around. i'm not gonna like what that will do to my speedo calibration, but i'll just have to live with it.

i spotted some cool Boranni look-alike steel rims with the small circle cutouts. on closer inspection they were Nissan brand with four lugnut holes. they even listed 13X5J on them.

anyone know if they'd work on an 02? they'd be an inexpensive alternative for the Boranni's for the vintage racer look.

from my stash of reference photos...

there's a few things i'm learning along the way that i'm sure the pros know already.

first off, never trust that the valve adjustment is okay from a PO. i was very concerned that No.2 cylinder had no compression. long story short. adjusted all valves and No.2 exhaust was too tight.

engine runs smoother and stronger now that all jugs are working for me.

second: never underestimate your own carelessness. i had a note that i afixed to the windshield to ensure that i tightened every front suspension bolt before operating car. you guessed it, the reason for the sloppy feel on the original drive was because i hadn't tightened EVERY bolt as intended.

third: tighten the steering bolts to torque spec while the subassembly is out. only tighten the control rod and radius rod bolts with the car's weight on them. would save a lot of time and crawling around.

fourth: never use a used water pump. $40 is cheap insurance. i don't need to make a public confession here. i've repented already. i paid the price.

anyhow, i'm slowly sorting out the odds and ends. took it out again for a spin and noticed the tighter handling. i'm able to toss it around turns and it has enough pull to entertain this slow-poke.

i'm starting to like the somewhat rat-rod appearance it has presently. i think every enthusiast should have a rat-rod to toss around in.

they're supposed to be short. the door seal ends butt up against them and actually the very ends are inserted into the threshold rubber.

i found it impossible to slide them into the groove. i clamped the plastic threshold in a vise a wedged the rubber into its groove. they don't seem to fit as well as i remember 12 years ago.

good luck.

Nice work Jerry - your nearly there! Great feeling starting it up for the first time in so long ey!

you got that right!!!! the hardest part now is actually finishing up all the really small stuff that needs to be done to call it DONE. i've already got my eye on my white car.... it's also satisfying to have gotten this far without quitting.

although, if the truth be told, i really AM contemplating having the exterior resprayed by a professional. i'd do it myself but i just can't bear to do that work on THIS car.

i intend to spray my next car myself, but i just wont do it again on this car. sick of working on it, i suppose.

thanks for the help. i reviewed the references and decided to pull the instrument cluster. i had the wires in the right places, but apparently, the black/white paired connection must of come loose during installation. reconnected and i now have a functioning tachometer.

as to what those other hot wires in the engine bay are, will remain a mystery for now. they are taped for safety.

i've bought a couple bay area 02's as you described. last one i bought was a 75 that the girl wanted $1000. it was a fred flinstone car. was able to drive it from pt. reyes to tiburon while looking at the road pass by on the passenger side. didn't even have the accelerator pedal. had to 'wing it' with what was left of the accelerator rod. it has a good engine and very good brakes but that's about all, plus a pre-76 VIN tag. she was resigned to only getting $200 out of me for it. i didn't force her to accept it.

i bought a very nice '73 automatic with blown engine, but NO RUST and straight body for $400

i bought a fair original '71 with blown engine but complete for $200. it's in the project blog as my early '71 02.

my other project blog car is a late '71 with rebuilt engine and little rust for $800.

that should give you an idea of the local market if you keep your eyes open.

i almost forgot, ibjettin *gave* me his rusty, crusty 73tii shell. we exchanged a few items in the process but it was generally gratis. although there are no free lunches in this world. it cost me $360 in back registration fees to title it. i was also able to trade a spare tii engine block to get the matching one for this shell.

i suppose i have enough projects to last me into senility....

the car is a RUNNER now. the idle is smooth after replacing the distributer. used a timing light to set timing and was gonna adjust valves but my resident porsche expert said they sound fine as is. i'll check when engine cools.

this is an all stock car 'cept for the 5 spd. it's not as tight as driving my 75, but it has more of a vintage feel around the corners. must be the narrow, stock wheels. was a gas driving it for the first time.

need to install front seat belts, sunvisors, license plate, bumpers, grills, rear view mirror, fix the turn signals, alternator light and horn, steering wheel and finish the trim.

then i can call this PROJECT complete, but not yet.....

stay tuned.

i did the search. i've reviewed my haynes manual and perused the factory manual.

first off, the wiring diagram is too friggin small for my middle-aged eyes now. i'm trying to locate item 'c' on No.41 of the diagram for the tachometer.

i was under the impression the tach runs off the black wire connected to the condenser.

i have two stray wires in the engine compartment back firewall, yellow-black and green-yellow.

i found out the hard way that one, if not both, are hot as the engine died when one of them touched the valve cover.

there is no smog stuff on this car and i returned the single barrel solex. it had the weber from the PO.

it's my late 71 02 project car.

what get's me is that looking at my wiring diagram the only green-yellow (GN-GE, auf deutch) is within the cabin only and pertains to the blower motor. Huh????? (btw, my new blower motor blows like a hurricane).

i don't THINK, these wires are spliced into position.

anyone have ideas on either these wires or the dead tach?

btw, got the engine to run smoothly after replacing distributor and timing with light and tweaking carb.

the only difference between the two is the appearance.

personally, there's just something special about those all-silver grills on a 1600. when they're shiny they're hard to beat.

thanks for the help you guys. the black wire was improperly placed on the pos side of the coil. my battery ground is verified good. after enlarging the gap i'm not burning the wire.

btw, the wire i'm speaking of is the small pigtail off the points that connects to the male terminal of the condenser which protrudes into the distributor.

as for the gap, it was originally set per the Haynes manual and C.D. you are correct, it is 0.016inch. i was going off memory (a bad thing for me). i will readjust gap closer and have another go tomorrow. i'm a bit disappointed my fuel filter hasn't filled up with gas after all the cranks on the engine.

do i have to prime it somehow?

another problem i'm gonna have to deal with later is that my flywheel teeth are worn and the starter does not engage properly sometimes. i'm afraid to ask what the solution is.

my condenser is brand new and i just replaced it with another new one to no avail. i'm an electrical idiot. how do i use my voltmeter to test it?

ok, i just readjusted my points and set the gap wider. no burning. however, i'm not getting the engine to start yet. i'm gonna assume that i was getting electric spark before i adjusted points....

i'll keep plugging away.

btw, i have no idea how far off of TDC i am anymore as i had to rotate the distributer to get the cam lobe in the right spot. i have an idea of the original location of the distributor.

well, after 21 months of down time, my engine came to life this morning. i had to prime the carburetor several times with gas but eventually the fuel pump did its thing.

there's some knocking in the valve train which will need some adjustment and looks like a small exhaust leak or perhaps, hopefully, just burning off never-seize compound.

my driver's side turn signal flasher will not turn off.

my tachometer is not working.

my alt light does not turn off.

at any rate, i'm one step closer to driving it....

you are correct. the bottom wire attaches to the nearby post on the alternator. the connection typically has a flimsy rubber boot covering it. they are usually MIA by this time.

the upper connection is a ground between the alternator and the front timing cover of the engine. typically a slightly heavier guage wire, originally brown (designates ground on these cars). get an appropriate length of wire and put eyelets on both ends and attach as necessary.

you might be on to something wrt stamping at the destination country.

compare the different fonts between US spec and the Uraguay VINs

the 7's and 5's are different.

Armond, are you looking for a square light car to go with the roundie?

I've been thinking of getting a 74 or 75 in a few years - they've been growing on me.

Yeah, I've been thinking about it but we'll see.

yes, the under-appreciated squaretails....

i hated selling my beloved '75 to my poseur nephew. first thing he did when i sold it to him was have it professionally cleaned. Gawd, i never saw it looking so nice and it REALLY made me regret selling it. been 02-less for 3 months. they have a smart, more contemporary look and don't have the frightfully tender nose sticking out so far ahead of the bumper.

as for the 76 armond, if it hasn't been altered, they can be smogged and you get a great car. in the meantime keep your eye out for a rusty, junker 74 or 75 with clean title.

as for my nephew's 02, the engine fell off it's left mount (or it broke) so it's up on stands at his mother's house. he drove the car HARD. time to see if he'll get his hands dirty. i figure, worst case, i buy it back from him for a song....

i'm at a loss as to all the fuss about a tii manifold. there's been a fair bit of discussion about em, with photo reference provided on the my2002tii site as well. as stated above the only difference is the drilled out bosses for the smog stuff. other than that, if you can find a regular one and merely remove the exhaust probes and block off the holes, i'd argue that you've just configured a tii manifold.

i have both types lying around and they are essentially the same. However, having just typed all this, i have indeed noted on my spare 74tii engine, the exhaust manifold does appear slightly, and i mean, slightly, larger than the other tii manifold i have (too bad it has a large crack at the No.3 port).

getting closer.........

here's a couple teaser photos. hope to try to start it tomorrow. it's been a year and a half and the sense of satisfaction is immense.

i can't wait to return to my white car to get it sorted out. however, i will not immobilize it to the extent this car was.

I am working on getting these into a package.

that would be great if you would persue more kitting of parts for the 02. there are so many opportunities to help the DIY crowd to merely replace as a unit and be able to know that everything needed is in one tidy ziplock bag.

nuts,bolts,washers come to mind.

being able to order a kit to reassemble a rear trailing arm, or a pedal box, or reassemble the timing covers and oil pan (there's bolt or two there not used anywhere else), or the doors. the list goes on and on.

in fact, when i have time, as i disassemble an area, i assemble my own kit from my replated bits and pieces and label accordingly, then i toss the dirty bits in my carboard box for the Cd platers.

kits would spare the drudgery of going through the parts manual.

i've attached a photo of a sample stamping on an aluminum plate.

unfortunately the font size and type is significantly different.

looking at the manufacterer's website (google: numberall) there is a closer match "open Style Gothic, No.531", but the price of the wheel and indexing gear is $500 and change.

too bad, because once if figured this press out you can see that the numbers and alignment are very uniform.

if only there were 100 members willing to chip in $5.00

oh well, back to the drawing board...