jerry

brian, that is an issue i'll have to tackle someday as well. there is a new hand press at work that will stamp clean numbers, but the size and font is too small. it's used to stamp engine tags on helicopter engines. however, this particular machine has various fonts and sizes available. i was planning to investigate further when the time came.

i don't think the number wheel is cheap though, but if enough interest was available perhaps we could pool resources.

if the font and size doesn't matter to you i'd be happy to stamp your plate, or alternatively, i could stamp a piece of aluminum and snap a photo for all to see (in my infinite spare time).

been a couple weeks of time off from the project. not making the palo alto show kinda took the wind from my sails. additionally, i'm still under the gun to relocate all my crap. been selling my childhood stuff on ebay lately. i'm making some nice spending cash while cleaning out things. i regret selling most of my very old 1940's Schwinn bikes and parts really cheap to a person who turned out to be nothing more than a parts whore. rather than restore them as he said, he parted them out. oh well.

anyhow, this past weekend has been spent on ONE DOOR, only. it's amazing how much effort is involved to fully reassemble one of these.

the driver's side door is on. the seats are in and the glovebox is installed.

i found my seatbelts, finally, but they'll need some rework (tears and frayed).

i found a pair of really poor grills for this car. i bead blasted them and painted them silver. i intend the paint the black slats appropriately. don't want anyone thinking it's a 1600.

i thought you were dead....

i am sorry to hear this. mitch was a stand-up person, as evidenced when he and i had a minor disagreement and he extended an 'olive branch' and i realized it was foolish to hold a grudge. i am sorry i never got to meet him personally, but i know he would have been a great person to hang with and shoot the breeze.

we should post his Project Blog on the FAQ section to memorialize his bodyworking skills.

RIP

moly disulphide has been used in grease for a very long time. it's used in the gas turbine industry in the cold sections of the engine. it is avoided like the plague for high temperature turbine section due to embrittlement issues with Ni-based alloys. M10 engines DO NOT reach the high temperatures to cause a problem. I have not seen it added to any turbine or gearbox oils. i use powdered Mo with oil as an anti-seize on bolts and as a lubricant. this mixture is also used during assembly of some aeroengines.

don't bother adding it to motor oil...

Please post pics of the car and not what your going to beat on, thanks.

now that qualifies for the drum roll..... BATTA-BOOM.

you stepped into that one steve.

bennet's comments are right on target.

i'd like to add to the discussion by relaying my brief experience with the single-barrel solex. for in-town driving it is zippy and provides plenty of punch. it may suffer from freeway driving when you desire a punch at the top end as it can only deliver so much fuel.

i remember talking to you at palo alto. your car is a nice unmolested example as-is. i'd leave it alone. it appears from your signature that you have an M3, if so, don't try to play catch-up with your 02. it's a whole different experience.

as for rebuilding the Solex, the key is determining whether the shafts are worn. if you don't have idling issues you are probably all right. if the shafts are worn there's not much you can do other than trying work-arounds like i'm gonna do. i've installed a rubber grommet to try to cover the air leak past the shaft. the grommet actually is compressed against the housing to try to squeeze the gap shut. installing a rebuild kit is pretty straight forward.

your car is a nice example of how they came off the boat. those examples are becoming harder to find and when they are found, their values tend to be higher than the 'modded' examples.

wow, either that's one giant cat or that's one small person. i didn't think cats got that big!

sorry, way off-topic, but...

i bought some MMO, too, in response to previous posts. i have yet to rub it on my cat's butt, though

getting nearer to completion after taking a week off. didn't finish in time for palo alto show, oh well....

it's now a matter of finishing all the small two-bit tasks that drag on. i've completed all work underneath the car so all that remains is to re-torque rear hubs and front suspension when car is on the ground under its own weight. hydraulics are complete and fluid is bled.

remaining items:

reassemble doors, hardware and install

bumpers, front and rear

glovebox, center console

find front seatbelts and install

install front seats

sunvisors

attach hood and trim

attach battery, fill with gas, insert key, turn ignition and listen to the engine fire up as soon as gas enters the combustion chamber.

yea right.....

i resealed my steering box and did not do anything different than you described. my box has been in the car, filled with oil, and no signs of leakage. i have not DRIVEN the car yet, but, no drips, to date.

your mileage may vary....

fill 'er up and don't look back

congratulations!!!

i considered that car for a bit as i have yearned for a real ti ever since reading about them. good thing it was a fair distance from me and coupled with the fact that i have collected just about 95% of all the ti-specific bits to make a clone, including distributor, carbs AND proper linkage.

i wish you were closer, i'd love to set eyes on a real one someday. it'd be great if you'd start a project blog.

keep us posted. there's a fair bit of info on a german website regarding the carbs, linkage and other stuff. google Solex PHH and you'll find it.

One detail I worked out is the crossmember mounting ears / brackets. A local BMW wrecking yard used to supply me with used 4 speed mounting ears from all the '02s he dismantled. The trans is a tight fit with those ears in there but I used to also widen the tunnel a little there for an easier fit.

that's a nice little tidbit of info to be aware of beforehand. i learned another tip from a mechanic at the palo alto show who was selling a very nice powder-coated shortened shifter, fairly priced.

if you are on the board, pardon my paraphrasing your information and please correct me if i've butchered your description.

anyhow, apparently, the older 228mm clutch/flywheel combo, when mated to a 5spd has a different clutch engagement distance than what we're used to for the 4spd. he suggested two workarounds:

1. use the newer 74-76 clutch/flywheel combo, or

2. elongate the pivot point on the bell housing where the little plastic cone-like appendage is pressed in place, by removing the plastic piece, tapping the hole and screwing a bolt in place that can be adjusted outward to move the clutch lever arm pivot point.

i believe his advise for two reasons

a) my only other experience with a 5spd conversion was with a 74 02 (thus smaller clutch/flywheel) and no discernable difference. and

my recent 5spd came with a bolt where the plastic pivot was supposed to be, just like he described. However, I, in my infinite wisdom removed said bolt and replaced with plastic cone, thinking to myself, geeze, what was the PO thinking? i am now faced with learning first hand if the clutch engagement point is indeed different.

also, wrt the Bavaria speedo cable. i'm using it and it's quite a bit longer than necessary. was a bit of a pain to attach to the speedometer and i needed to use a tie-wrap to secure it to the clutch master cylinder to keep it from dangling too low.

one last point: in my instance, the stock shifter platform support bar had to be modified to clear the darn rear tranny support and the u-shaped bracket which is bolted to the rear of the tranny (removed from the 4-spd, btw), had to be turned somewhat to install the bolt. a bit of work that required me to bend and weld the support bar somewhat.

FWIW, thought i'd share my recent experience.

Jon,

sorry for the threadjack.

would you please email me about the 3-piece dash i purchased from you and recently received.

cheers,

jerryallsmanATyahooDOTcom

it's comforting to know i'm not the only one with thumbs for fingers. i had difficulty with both sway bars. why i waited to install them with the subframes mounted i'll never know. to think i had front and rear subframes on my bench at one time. we constantly learn how NOT to do things with these cars.

thought i'd update my progress by copying text from a previous post in the general forum. it's a mad dash till this saturday. i had to modify the shifter support because of clearance issues but i made it look clean and deliberate. the rear seat is in and looks great. rear shelf board is in with new black vinyl. i'm sooooo anxious to drive this car!!!!

i'm peddling as fast as i can.

got the following to do:

hook up shifter, driveshaft, differential DONE!!!

halfshafts. TOMORROW ................................done

hook up clutch line DONE................................done

connect accelerator linkage. DONE

install alternator,DONE

belt, .....................................................still TO DO

radiator, hoses DONE

reassemble solex single barrel and attach ALMOST DONE, NEED TO FIND ACCELERATOR ROD.......................................done

install seats, seatbelts, REAR SEATS DONE

visors, glovebox........................................still TO DO

sort out rear battery hookups DONE

connect headlights/tailights .........................done

finish trim installation ................................still TO DO

install doors and hardware, windows, ............NEED TO DO

door seals DONE

bleed hydraulic system ...............................done

install trunklid DONE

and hood and related hardware ................still TO DO

wetsand DONE

FORGOT TO LIST BUMPERS AS WELL.

it's doable, but definitely not certain, yet. i'm thinking of pulling the doors off my scrap car to save time.

this begs the question:

can we form a volleyball game

roundie wearing teeshirt people vs. squarelight wearing teeshirt people???

the finish would have to be severely scored before i'd worry about it. although i avoid blasting the spindles when i do them, it's not a big deal. i don't even bother masking them beforehand.

very very nice car. looks like you just drove it off the showroom floor.

i'm publicly hoping you enjoy it as-is. it's so easy to "improve" things, so much harder to leave well enough alone.

have fun whichever direction you choose. how about some background info.

Heck, BMW owns Rolls-Royce, so why not invite Rolls owners (not that they'd come...)

cheers

mike

ah shucks, i can't let that misperception fly.

BMW owns the exclusive rights to USE the Rolls-Royce ltd. name/trademark, only.

the REAL Rolls-Royce, ie Rolls-Royce plc divested itself from the car company back in the early 70's when the whole company almost went bankrupt developing a composite fan blade for the RB211 engine for the L10-11 aircraft. RR-limited was sold to Vickers who also owned Bentley. Vickers in turn sold Bentley and they ASSUMED Rolls-Royce ltd to VW. VW got a rude awakening when they found out that the RR name was still owned and controlled by RR-plc. at the time BMW was outbid by VW for the Vickers holdings at the last minute.

pay-back's a bitch though because BMW and RR-plc was already involved in a joint effort making V2500 engines near Berlin. VW was allowed use of the RR-ltd name for 3 years only at which time BMW took the name over. details may be in error but this is the gist.

btw, there were rumors of a RR-plc buyback of RR-ltd back in the 90's but keener minds prevailed.

no pictures but i was able to chip away at the car in between homestead issues. new wheels are on. door seals and threshold installed. grab bars, 1/4 window levers, alternator and water hoses installed, rear trunk seal installed. exterior trim installed on shell.

next up is the seat belts, rear seat, rear panels and front seats, glove box.

i'm thinking i should be able to finish in time to at least start it up in a week.

thanks for the generous offer tom. right now my biggest obstacle is sorting through my pile-o-crap for the missing bracket, bolt etc. i thought i was more organized than this, but...

for example, didn't realize that out of ALL the neatly organized nuts and bolts i have, i have to scavenge one from another car to install the alternator. it's a unique size. stuff like that is driving me nuts.

rub it in Brian...

i'm peddling as fast as i can. armond and my brother helped me install the engine/5spd tuesday evening. i just got tires mounted and balanced on my repainted steel rims.

got the following to do:

hook up shifter, driveshaft, differential and halfshafts.

hook up clutch line

connect accelerator linkage.

install alternator, belt, radiator, hoses

reassemble solex single barrel and attach

install seats, seatbelts, visors, glovebox

sort out rear battery hookups

connect headlights/tailights

finish trim installation

install doors and hardware, windows, door seals

bleed hydraulic system

install trunklid and hood and related hardware and wetsand (maybe)

it's Finals time all over again, and the term paper is due on the 19th

(i know, get off the computer and get to work... will do).

go to the plumbing section of your favorite hardware store and buy plumber's caulk. it comes in a roll and is the same consistency and color as the original stuff.

i hate to belabor this point and i'm feeling like an 02 geek, but i have heard mention of late 71 cars being referred to as Model 72's. in fact, the build date of mine was july '71, but my title states it as a '72 although the VIN is 2576240 (technically, a 1971 year issue). so i'm in this grey area of is it or isn't it wrt seatbelts. my gut says it did, and should have, retractable belts.

i kinda have a fondness for this particular year for some unexplained reason that i don't have for the 72's or 73's. probably because i have examples of an early and late model from this year.

this site, you just become a fuckin bigger idiot.

geeze, who dumped a turd in your punchbowl???

what's up with that?