jerry

as much as i hate to admit it, i was a hack today. i could not get the m-fing bottom dash out cleanly. i missed one turn-screw that's about in the middle of the dash, plus i struggled with those damn trim plates.

i don't recall having this much trouble removing a 3-piece dash from a car in the junkyard a year or so ago.

at least this particular dash was trash to begin with, but i was hoping to rehab it. oh well, i've got its replacement anyway.

anyhow, i'm VERY pleased with the lack of rust underneath the windshield and inner channel. this car is well worth saving. i sandblasted and will spot prime to hold me over till i can spot paint this area and be done with it.

maybe, just maybe i can get this one running in time for Palo Alto, too

and btw, those piss-ant little screws that hold the trim pieces will NOT be used for reassembly. i'll use bubble-gum to hold them in place if i have to...

well, i used the inspection mirror and flashlight and lay on my back and saw the two small nuts holding the trim plates snugly to the dash. there's no way i can get to them so i figured i might as well remove the dash (it's VERY cracked and needs replacement). i just wasn't planning for that, yet.

so, an hour later i'm struggling with trying to remove the bottom part of the dash without removing the top piece. the instrument console and cover are out by this time. no dice.

so now the front windshield is out (wasn't planning on this task yet either). it was glued in place so i'm cutting, scraping and doing anything i can to remove the residual sealant. on a bright note, at least the window channel is relatively rust-free. thank god for small favors.

all this just to remove those damn trim plates...

there is absolutely nothing wrong with a 75 car in general, if the smog equipment has been removed.

i just recently sold my beloved 75 02 to my nephew, to thin the herd and it was a very nice car. almost zero rust and never left me stranded. the squaretails 'feel' more solid than the roundies as well.

now i need to get one of my projects running so i can once again drive an 02...

folks, i'm trying to remove my heater box for rehab and i'm not sure if the aluminum trim cover plates on the dash pop off as do the later cars or whether they're secured by small nuts behind the dash.

before i permanently make an impression in my dash trying to pry them out i thought i should ask.

i'm only trying to remove the heater box, so if this can be done without removing the trim pieces that's fine too. i'm just anticipating that the levers are secured with two screws behind the trim plates.

assistance please. oh yea, the car's an early 71 w/ 3-piece dash.

although i don't have the diameter of the spindle on hand, i do have a couple photos of what wear on the bearing journal looks like. these were taken from a set of tii spindles that the seller graciously accepted back with full refund. a member of this board, btw.

i can not draw arrows, but you should notice a uniform wear spot the length of the bearing roller.

yes, you are becoming conservative in your old age. just keep your threads clean and use a torque wrench. i recently thought i had stripped a spark plug hole but it turned out to be dirty threads due to carbon buildup. a threadchaser cleaned it up.

as for coldrolled and plated plugs. that's marketing. the plating is probably either zinc or cadmium. cadmium has an inherent quality of actually being a somewhat lubricant (lubricious, is the term, i think) as it oxidizes.

use anti-seize, regardless.

was wondering if the belt alignment would line up. i found out the hard way that the water pumps are not interchangeable, so that got me wondering about the crank pulley too.

those sound like the openings which accept those squarish clips that the fender bolts screw into.

Post a pic.

this is a copy from my project page. i lightened the photo before reposting so the black appears alittle washed-out. the area below the plastic bag was all cracked and is virtually hidden now. i'm confident i could have done more for the big crack at the end of the heater vent but it doesn't bother me enough to continue.

this was a dash destined for replacement until i played with it.

i very recently 'rehabbed' a ratty, cracked dash with missing vinyl.

i sanded every crack till smooth (they tend to curl up at the edges) and filled with flexible bondo (it's typically used on plastic bumpers and as a type of thin glazing filler). sanded smooth and reapplied as necessary.

after cleaning whole dash thoroughly, i sprayed with SEM brand textured coating to apply a light texture to even out the appearance. don't need a lot, btw.

when dry i resprayed with 'landau black' vinyl spray from eastwoods.

i am VERY pleased with the appearance. it's NOT perfect, but so very much better looking. just respraying a faded dash with the landau black would do a lot to freshen the look in its own right.

I beleive the Ti also had a slightly wider front track...53" I think--same as the Tii if I'm not mistaken.

can you clarify what you mean regarding the front track? i'm not sure what you are referring to. what are the applicable parts?

61 13 1 353 662 cable holder by radiator 61/11

FWIW, these coatings being shown in the photos appear very similar to what is used on aeroengine components and is referred to as Sermetel coating. it's a sprayed aluminum coating contained within a binder and is allowed to dry then baked at about 400F.

it is polished by simply using No.13 glass bead in a typical sandblast cabinet. it's pretty durable stuff and when it's dull it can be repolished simply by reblasting it with glass beads (fancy form of sand). it's applied to compressor cases on the larger engines and some helicopter operators like to apply it to the visible portions of the engine for show.

Alseal is another variant that we use in-house. i was fortunate to slip a whole set of M10 aluminum bits through the paint shop for coating. someday, someday....

details for the list:

larger front spindles and brake calipers as used for later tii variant

boxed rear trailing arms

dash clock with chrome trim ring and different front face than what is on the tii clock.

brake booster, as found on tii variant.

early 3-piece dash with chrome trim as found on the 67 model year cars

'sport' steering wheel

no 'snorkel'

6-fuse cars only

4-bladed radiator fan

btw, that is a great photo of a clean ti engine bay. i'll add a copy to my reference file. i did not know about the stiffer valve springs.

i was getting ready to post a new topic on this, but your's is perfect and timely too.

anyhow, i used an aftermarket seal on my rear window and contrary to some comments on aftermarket seals, my experience was positive and installation was no less difficult than with OEM seal.

i did wrap the windshield with the seal and let it sit for a week, if that helped it preform or not i'm not sure.

i used thick nylon twine and two sticks (for pulling) and swabbed with glycerine. i did not swab the rubber seal with glycerine this time as i felt the twine was slippery enough from the previous use on the front windshield.

i won't say it dropped right in, but with some thoughtful working and coaxing it installed beautifully.

now for the best part: installing the chrome strip. i generally dread this job but decided to try something new. i soaked the chrome strip in hot water to soften it slightly. while it was soaking i thoroughly worked glycerine in the rubber groove with the end of a disposible paint brush. the angle of the handle was perfect. i merely dipped the end in my bottle of glycerine and worked it till it slid smoothly. what a difference this made.

installing the chrome strip was almost effortless using the installation tool. i installed it singlehandedly for about 80% of the length asking my brother to hold the tool only so i could reposition myself.

my windshield is tight and i did not see a need to use sealing compound on it. i've seen many 02s without sealant and i'm confident this will hold up as long as the rubber stays pliable. i did use sealant on my front windshield btw.

i'd like to get a couple good ones to replace the damaged ones i have.

depending on your location i'd be interested in whole sets. i prefer the OEM to the 320i sets i have.

email me please: jerryallsmanATyahooDOTcom

i'm in SFbayarea

[quote name="

fun to install' date=' too - yes? My hands hurt just THINKING about that job.

Paul[/quote]

you know, i dreaded this job because of the memory i had of it when i last did it a dozen years ago, however, i tried a new technique and it wasn't bad at all.

first thing i did was to remove the vinyl u-channel trim along the headliner. i started at the bottom of the c-pillar and wedged the rubber edge under the metal lip. i had both a bamboo paint stirrer and metal spatula to coax any stubborn section, but it really did go in the channel fairly easy.

on the first gasket i used glycerine to ease the installation but did not use it on the second one and it went in just fine.

i haven't cut to fit and the curling of the gasket looks terrible. i might take a half inch off or so.

dang brian, you're hauling ass on this....

i'm having trouble keeping up with you. i busting butt to finish in time. this is great incentive to keep me on target. good work. if you finish beforehand drive it up here.

cheers.

to fit? i got one side installed and i literally had to scrunch it up to make it fit the entire length. unfortunately, this created some curling of the weatherstripping which i fear will allow moisture in.

can i expect this rubber seal to shrink when it hits the sunlight after a while?

i have seen gaps in this weatherstripping on older cars which i'm sure lead to the dreaded rust streaks where the water hits the trim rivets.

the other side, btw, seems about an inch longer than needed.

my bracket looks just like the one shown, too. it was so bad it wore the aluminum mount on the lower timing cover down. i removed the stud, filed the mount level and epoxied two bronze washers to make up the lost material. it's gotta be better than what i started with.

that really looks nice. i love polaris.

anyhow. i noticed they covered the roof, bottom of both windshields. are you going with a different color, or is it a paintability issue, or what?... i like the idea of painting the car in sections if possible but i'd be concerned with matching/blending.

it's really 'hit or miss'. back in the 90's i could always count on at least one 02 in the picknpull whenever i'd visit the bay area to see my folks. now that i live here i rarely see them anymore.

i think Craigslist may be partly responsible, wherein before a person was happy to get the 'heap' out of the driveway, now a simple Craigslist posting can generate at least someone willing to pay for it.

Click here for a good photo documentation of a SunRoof Headliner installation.

it's too good to get lost:

http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,50/page,viewtopic/t,287554/

another possibility to consider:

those MAY also be the new configuration for the rubber bushings that are installed on the exhaust pipe hanger that attaches to the rear of the transmission.

i ordered several a month or so ago and what arrived, look similar. the old configuration used a small metal tube inserted into a 'flanged' rubber grommet. apparently those are NLA. i got the metal tubes, but not the rubber bushings.

that is too funny. i actually think it's pretty cool. get some red primer paint and complete the effect. and if you can simulate a cracked dash and torn seats, all the better. in fact, i think i'd even prefer one like that over a pristine example.

don't forget the spare tire well....