jerry

i have an engine that the PO said was rebuilt approximately 25,000 miles ago. i've only driven it once and it seemed strong. however, it was very oily for such a young engine. i decided to replace all gaskets and have a look-see. it's not all bad, but there are some things i thought i'd share. i've learned enough from this board that i am starting to recognize proper placement of items.

one question: i was planning to return this engine to a single-barrel Solex carb as it was originally configured. however, the PO installed an E12 head with high-compression pistons and a Weber carb. with those high-compression pistons, will the single-barrel Solex be up to the task? i don't want to go to the effort of pulling pistons out.

as i read it, what this bill is proposing to do is change the 2 year inspection requirement on cars from 1976 to 1992 (15 years from current model, actually 1993 because it's not enforceable until 2008) to annual requirement. this will double the costs of inspection and is in effect an additional tax hiding behind the mask of 'clean air'. it's a revenue generator for the testing stations and our beloved spenders of the public's money.

long live 'well-intensioned' bleeding hearts. call it what it is.

it will not affect the 1975 exemption, if i read it correctly.

just wipe it off. they probably used grease to push them in easier.

as for the harm it could do, consider that the CV joints have rubber boots holding all that greasy mess within, and who's worried about that?

(nt)

i may have bought a set from you on a group buy of windshield gaskets a year or so ago, but i'm not sure if i actually used the chrome strips from that purchase or not. i know i also bought a set from Double02 Salvage at one point too. i got parts scattered everywhere.

now if only i could find that damn strip of vinyl for the rear windshield i'd install that next. i know i cleaned it and bagged it for later. but where is it???

is there a distinction between the chrome strip used on the front windshield and the rear windshield. i did not think to check before installing the front and of course it's not even close to matching up.

so i took the remaining one and eyeballed it against the rear windshield and it too appears that it won't likely match up. they're about 5 inches too short.

it would be a sick joke if BMW expects me to stretch it while installing it. also, i just don't have the courage to pre-install it before installing the windshield. pulling on the string is hard enough without the extra tension it would likely cause.

add this task to the list of things i dislike doing on an 02

yeah, another one saved from the crusher. we're all cheering for you in the background. have at it...

i'm making progress on this car and am very exited about finishing it. i rehabbed the dash yesterday and am VERY satisfied at how it turned out. i took a very tired dash from a 72 (with the seat belt fasten sign), filled the cracks with flexible bondo (after cleaning and sanding beforehand) when i was satisfied with the results i sprayed SEM brand textured paint over the whole dash. the cracks did not disappear but the appearance was greatly improved. i finished with a spray of Landau Black vinyl spray paint from Eastwood. Overall a much improved appearance. worth the effort. yes, some of the cracks are still visible, but the overall appearance is SO much better.

i installed the front windshield today. unfortunately, my original cracked during storage so i used an older clear windshield. it looks fine and i'm only sorry my brother left before getting the rear windshield in. oh well, there's always tomorrow.

next up is the rear windshield. the engine will be detailed and reassembled with the original single-barrel solex carburetor.

the engine/transmission will be installed before the carpet. i can't wait.

Great job, thanks for the detailed posting.

This should definitely be added to the FAQ Construction Forum as a good reference for all.

i used to love those cars too. that is, until they became soooo valuable. my brother had two convertibles back in the 70's. paid about $800 a piece. my father gave them away cuz he was sick of having them around and he was having adolescent issues with my brother at the time.

i had a rusty '62 356 Type B in the late 80's but let it go cuz i couldn't afford to restore it and body parts weren't readily available back then. i no longer yearn for them because they are so prized and costly. they are beautiful and the doors close with such ease. the old carreras sound like clocks when they run. i have a neighbor who's been into these cars since the 60's. even he is having reservations about buying them now.

i don't look forward to the day when the 02's start creeping up in price.

spotless polish, perhaps?

i merely used 2-part epoxy supplied in a plastic syringe as found in typical hardware stores. there were a couple cracks where i cut small patches out of thin aluminum and glued the aluminum patch over the crack. glues hold best in shear. if you use patches, ensure that you don't create unintended clearance issues with the flaps, etc.

i made an aluminum bracket which i glued to the remnants of the plastic support for the brass valve. good as new and hardly noticeable. make a template out of cardstock, first. it doesn't have to *look* perfect to work.

i didn't want to post on this until i had firsthand experience, but i just got my 02 back from Gavin Autowerks (7920 Capwell Dr. Oakland 94621) off Hegenberger in Oakland. he's very fair and consciencious and used by a couple coworkers for their 80's vintage 6-series.

he's a one-man shop and works on Mercedes, Porsches and BMWs. i would use him again.

my '75 02 has been running rough for awhile and because i'm so busy on my other two projects i decided to take it to a mechanic to sort it out.

fortunately, my worst fear (stripped sparkplug threads) was not realized. he corrected a couple sources of problems (too embarassing to list here) that i'll know better next time.

however, it appears that my distributor is not rebounding properly when the vacuum advance (or is it retard on the '75?) is activated. this is leading to erratic timing on occasion and he's not able to 'dial it in'.

can this distributor be saved?

nahhh....

a good gloat has to elicite a tad bit of envy from the reader. used recarros don't do it for me. i recently passed on a good set at the junkyard for less $

now a nice set of early hubcaps and useful, NOS parts for minimal cash outlay moves me.

get some brushable contact cement, and about 3 dozen of those nice paper clamps from office supply store (1/2 inch size is fine).

i'll assume your old headliner is removed and you saved the rear support board. you'll need to salvage those pesky spring-like clamps or buy a new bunch, or try short panhead screws as has been suggested by others.

use your original headliner to locate the position of the support board on your new headliner. measure distance to the first seam, distance from edge, etc.

glue this board onto your headliner and allow to dry. use patience and pliers to reattach the board to the ceiling. it's not a pleasant experience but it's doable.

insert the 5 rods in the sewn pockets. install the rearmost rod in its appropriate hole in the roof. pulling it forward, carefully, will aid in getting the headliner tight. work your way forward. at the front windshield start clamping. apply clamps to the sides. pull as needed to sort it out.

another awkward part is pulling the headliner tabs down and towards the c-pillar. i made a very careful cut to help pull it rearward.

it's not rocket science. several folks here have done it and posted results.

good luck.

when you're happy with the positioning, slowly add glue to the edges and reclamp as needed. hopefully you kept your old headliner as a guide.

your vinyl edging, sunvisors, hand grips will all help in further tightening it after it's installed.

just finished spraying the engine bay and am i happy. it's nice to know i'm capable of learning. my paint is more uniform in appearance. i can't wait to see it in full sun tomorrow. time to let it sit and cure for a week or so while i get back to work on my other car.

i received my latest box of nuts and bolts from the plater. for some reason i didn't get the yellow-cadmium i asked for. instead i got clear cadmium. they look like nickel plate. i think i'll use these bolts on this white car. should give it a distinctive, subtle look.

Why not remove it and soundproof the interior firewall?

Dash & carpet is easier to remove than motor & engine bay equipment. quote]

you know, that never occurred to me to leave that pad off and accomplish same idea from the inside. anyone done this? if so, what's the verdict. the pad is a great accumulator of moisture and grime anyway.

and i agree with earlier post, a little descriptive title is much more helpful for everyone.

this sounds like a gloat masquerading as editorial content.

very nice score. i'd gloat too....

concave out.

a couple photos showing the sealer/primer and textured undercoater applied. i bought the paint this afternoon. i'm gonna go with Ford Wimbeldon White as it is a pretty good color match and since the formula is known it should be easy to match in the future.

the nosepiece and both fenders are replacements. rust-wise they are in very good shape. pity that the nose got 'tapped' at one point because otherwise it is the best i've seen on an unrestored car.

the previous installation of the nosepiece was well done and barely noticeable. however, the fenders will have to be removed at some time to install proper sealer strips at the contact points. presently it's metal to metal contact with a gap. this will be addressed sometime in the future, i hope.

i hope to paint color tomorrow after work.

that looks great brian. you really nailed it. spot on. it's amazing how fast you were able to get this done. it took me 4 months to do what you did in a couple weeks.

btw, i started working on my white car so that it will run on its own so i'm working long hours in the evenings and weekends now.

thought i should post a picture to prove that i have not stopped working on this car. i have been VERY busy the past couple weeks sandblasting and painting miscellaneous parts including THREE complete sets of steel rims, so now i'll have a painted set for this car and my white car and my tii (whenever i get to it).

i finished the battery relocation installation with the mounting of the distribution block on the firewall. next up is spraying some rubberized undercoating in the rocker panel cavities and laying down some sound deadner. as soon as i get back on my dash refresh i'll install it then the windshields can be installed.

thanks for the offer Armond. so far my compressor is holding up, especially since i'm not planning a whole car repaint with this current car. it's a paint as i go project.

as for the pressure pot blaster, i bought it used off Craigslist but i'm sure it's a harbor freight type. for the most part, THE biggest issue is keeping the air supply DRY, DRY, DRY. i have two water filters and the 2nd one really helped. i also use the mini-one at the end of the hose.

i got 30 minutes of absolutely the BEST flow and use out of this blaster yesterday. the air was dry and it was the first time i've used it since last summer. i was really impressed. however, after a while the flow started to be hindered and an occasional shake was necessary. fortunately, i was able to accomplish most of what i needed within the 30 minute timeframe.

btw, i bought one of those pistol gun small blasters and tried it for one load before putting it away. WAY TOO SLOW.

these blasters are great but be prepared to sweep sand and vacuum the heck out of your car.

Hey there, could you give me some info on the products you are shooting, as well as the gun? I too am planning an engine comp repaint and was planning on just sanding it down and using the aerosol touch up paint. Would it really be prudent to shoot it with a gun? I have a good compressor and am willing to learn, I just wasn't sure that it would be worth the added cost.

Any help or advice would be great. Thanks, Jordan

my first choice for sealing CLEAN bare metal is epoxy sealer from DuPont. unfortunately i used mine all up so i used my off-brand 2 part (typically referred to as 2K) high build primer/sealer with extra reducer added to thin it up. i go over everything with a wax/silicone/oil remover prior to paint. this step is essential to avoid fisheyes and bonding issues.

i will likely use a 2-stage paint to finish the job. i will likely use a ready-made color that is closest to original. colormatching in stages is not easy so i want a catalog color.

i use a gravity feed SATA gun for primer. it is a great gun and i like it. i use an ACCUSPRAY gun for everything else. it is also nice but is on the big side and difficult to reach some areas sometimes. my ACCUSPRAY runs off a turbine blower but i have an air compressor version too. i use the Turbine sprayer when i want to do quick jobs without powering up my small compressor. i have two water filters on my compressor and a disposable dessicator at the end of the hose. very important to eliminate moisture.

i spent a fair bit on my sprayers and other bits but i figured i'd be doing at least a couple cars.

what's best for you depends on what you want for your car. i considered spray cans for the engine bay and i'm sure it would look fine if done with care, but i figured since i already had the equipment, why skimp.