jerry

While building a second engine with piano tops, a set of those pistons came on ebay. I bought em and installed in my original chasis engine. Got the set with rings for $50, the only bidder. Seller was 2002AD. Klobenschmidt mfr. The honing marks were in my block, had less than 85k on it, so fit right in with a buff on the cylinder walls and clearanced within specs. Klobenschmidts need a hair more than Mahles. Engine now on a storage stand with less than 500miles. Have a Ti head on it.

now THAT's a gloat. and i was happy to score my unused set of genuine Mahle 02ti bathtubs for $335. my dilemna is that i can't use them with the S14 crank i had envisioned. gonna find another application for the crank i suppose. they're easier to come by.

I want something that you just spray, preferrably low odor and paint just runs off or can easily be wiped away with a putty knife or rag.

TIA

you, me and the rest of the auto, aero and general overhaul and maintenace world. low cost would be a plus too.

unfortunately, there's just no substitute for elbow grease or a hot tank of sodium hydroxide

i didn't respond cuz my subassembly is on my workbench and from that vantage point it's a breeze to replace.

i'll assume yours is still attached with and engine in the way as well.

yes, you'll have to remove the idler arm and to do that, the tie-rod linkage needs to be loosened. after removing the cotter pin and cleavis nut. if you have a ball-joint separator use it otherwise reinstall the cleavis nut upside down and whack on it to try to separate the joint. some have suggested a whack on the side of the joint will help to free up the connection.

remove the idler arm and inspect for wear.

use a drift to bang out the idler arm bushings, two pieces (top and bottom).

clean and reassemble. replace cotter pin and cleavis nut if necessary.

HTH

Here in Santa Cruz you need an environmental impact report to dig a post hole, and a permit to set the post (No joke. I heard it from a county planner.)

Changing our roof shingles, toilet, or circuit breaker are all outlaw behaviors. My neighbor was busted for "outdoor storage of personal property".

Sorry for the off topic, but it makes my blood boil to live in a place where it is impossible to get through the day without breaking some law.

Mitch, this topic makes me mad as hell and i could fill up a whole page of off-topic rants on this topic. i'm 5 years and waiting for a building permit to enlarge my workshop and add a garage. Marin County is populated with lawyers and the people who hire them and the MC Planning Department is only concerned with covering their A$$es.

i had to revise a complete set of architecturally rendered plans because she (miss planning commission queen), was concerned that, although the current neighbors had already agreed to my plans in advance, the fact that a former neighbor who no longer lived there, raised a concern 10 years ago, she was concerned with the 'potential' possibility that sometime in the future, some future neighbor MIGHT raise a concern. btw, the original issue was a result of petty jeolousy from a neighbor who played the system at our expense, but it's now public record and i allowed myself to be screwed by her (miss planning commission queen's) cowardice.

i'm sorry, this is WAY off topic but it's not hard to tell how mad and frustrated i am. there's more petty neighbor crap but i'll step down from my soapbox.

..........kicking the soapbox to the middle of the floor....., sorry... move along folks. the madman is finished. hurry along, nothing more to see.

there seems to be a lot of panel-replacement in preference to metal-work these days. i guess in the era of 'time is money', the black art of actually working the metal is relegated to the artisans, truely expensive unique cars, or cheap-skate hackers like myself.

i have a co-worker who literally saved a 'muscle car' from certain destruction by pulling the rear-end out (the trunk had been pushed nearly to the rear window) and slowly and methodically hammering the metal. he showed me before and after pictures. truely amazing and yes, he's an amatuer. he's now a pretty good, and quick amatuer.

point is: remove the bondo, try your hand with a metal dolly and ball pein and tap away. i bought a cheapo kit of ePay that works okay.

supposedly, there are ways to shrink stretched metal but that's beyond me. if it's too bad, cut and weld.

i second kangaroo's advice.

if money's short use elbow grease instead.

i hope you haven't sanded too much yet. before you walk down that long path consider a day's effort with rubbing compound and wax.

learn the car a bit, tackle a few little bits and pieces. if you're short on money you can get overwhelmed real fast. just keep the rust at bay and keep the interior dry.

it's a GREAT looking car from this distance, btw. i love to see original wheels on these cars.

Isn't it most likely that ht eblue marks are the result of teh heat treatment. The shaft itself could be treated with a flame whilst the threads and flange are not thus leaving blue marks at the edge of the flame.

yes, i think you may be right. darn me for not taking a reading on the flange surface to know conclusively.

i was thinking these were loaded into a furnace whole, but selectively hardening them would provide both hardness where needed and ductility elsewhere. i was suspecting they were finish machined after hardening, but that would be extra tool wear or slower grinding process. i have seen tool burns from too fast a feed rate, but i think your comments are on the mark.

i just got back from testing the hardness on the stub axle.

i'm pleased to report that it is indeed a hardened steel.

The hardness values were in the range of 48-49 Rockwell C (HRc).

this is typical of a quenched and tempered steel. I would expect higher numbers for a carburized steel.

i was unable to test in the vicinity of the blue tint without sectioning this part (it is scrap (due to spline wear) and i would have no objections to cutting it up, it's just a time/effort issue now).

anyhow, this particular part has the blue tint at two locations

a) inboard of the threads adjacent to the outward edge of the splines

the fillet just inboard where the dust cover seats against

looking at location (, there's no logical reason why that should have turned blue 'in-service'. Therefore, i'm suspecting the discoloration occurred during machining operation at the factory.

if anyone has had a stub axle fracture, and care to describe the location of the fracture, please post and add to the collective knowledge-base.

i've seen the same discoloration on a few of my stub axles. clean your bearings up and check them for discoloration. if they are dull grey that is consistent with overheating. that would explain the discoloration. alternatively, it's possible you or a PO merely heated them up to remove the hub.

i don't believe these are heat treated, but i could be wrong.

maybe it's time to do a hardness test on one? i'll bring one to work and check. watch this space for update.

as for being worried about the blue tint, i'm not.

i posted on this subject in the FAQ Construction Forum, with photos.

seals can be sourced at a bearing supply company (about $2-3/ea). there's one paper gasket used on the top cover. i used an OEM one to cut copies from gasket material available from McMaster-Carr and such.

can buy all the seals from BMW for about $25-30 i think.

i did buy a tube of thread sealer that i have yet to try but i think it is a good idea to use on the bolts. kinda pricey at $15/tube at NAPA.

it's not difficult job.

for what it's worth:

a little neumonic i use to remember which way the shoes move with turning those adjusters is

"down and out" (think hard luck story)

anyhow, as you pull the wrench towards the pavement, the shoes move outward. this applies to all four(2/wheel) of these adjusters on both rear wheels.

geez, the color you are showing looks very similar to what i have. i think there must have been a sale at Maaco's back in the 80's or 90's for that color.

i actually don't like my dark blue, probably because the metallic portion is more pronounced than i care to have. i like a more subtle metallic. also, my car was originally Fjord Blue, a beautiful color for these cars and it pisses me off that it was covered up.

do you think a garden variety 3HP compressor with 20 gallon tank would be sufficient to power that spot weld cutter?

remove seats at the rails (4 bolts/seat).

remove center console/or loosen a/c unit

rubber strip on rockers can be wedged up with a screwdriver on the end.

probably need to remove the underdash panels too.

look for very tiny screws holding up some of the vertical pieces on the kick-panels (drivers side and passenger side)

there may be a tiny screw located on the outbound seat support pillar holding that small tongue-shaped piece of carpet.

early sets had snap buttons on the rear pieces that have tiny screws within.

by now the carpet is probably enmeshed in the tarlike undercoating so it will need to be pulled with effort. take your time if you want to save it.

typically, if the section covering the inside rockers is presentable, get yourself some carpet scraps to replace the bottom portions and enjoy a refreshed look.

if you want to get to the metal underneath the tunnel you'll have to remove the a/c unit completely to expose the forwardmost piece of molded fiberboard.

then look for round metal stubs at the bottom edge of the fiberboard. these need to be bent upward and away.

you are now ready to remove the fiberboards and see the what's below.

approximate time to accomplish all this: give yourself 1.5 - 2 hours for 1st effort.

EDIT: you have a one piece molded carpet. you're gonna have to improvise a little. but you are forced to remove the a/c unit for sure

it really comes down to how thick is the coating/plating.

realize that 99% of all chain link fences are coated in zinc. the higher the quality the thicker the coating. hot-dipped galvanized (zinc) bolts will last a very long time and are used in marine environments, such as holding piers together.

unfortunately, what passes for zinc coating is in fact a flash coat and is relatively thin. however, cadmium coatings nowadays are pretty thin too.

when dealing with the thinnes in available coatings, cadmium is considered a bit more durable, but in reality, a lot of these coatings serve to keep the nuts and bolts shiny on the shelf at the hardware store.

if you can get good quality zinc coating, choose it for environmental reasons if nothing else.

looks good as is from this vantage point. keep in mind, once you spend serious money on paint and have a nice shiny car, your stress level is likely to increase relative to the proximity it is with other potentially harmful objects, such as shopping carts, narrow parking stalls etc.

unless the primer is showing through i'd just drive it and do whatever is necessary to keep rust at bay. but that's just me.

on the other hand, i can understand the desire to have a nice new piece of refurbished automotive jewlery.

on the whole, though. i'd buff it out and keep driving. also, new paint typically leads to new trim etc....

get one of those plumber's MAPP gas torches and apply heat to it (about $15 at hardware store).

apply a load to the puller and heat, then tap it with a hammer. the vibration sometimes helps. i just removed two of them yesterday and had similar resistance. one of them literally popped off after a dose of heat, tapping and applying a load with a 2-jaw puller. it was a bit of a surprise, so be forwarned.

btw: i added a photo to the FAQ Construction Forum showing the difference between a C/R gear and Standard gear if anyone's curious.

I'm going stock on this one. Well, except for a 2 barrel. I'll let you know if I go 12 volt. I really dig this interior!

glad to hear this. those early ones are really neat. especially that chrome dash. i looked long and hard before finally finding one for my 1600ti clone to be.

hurry up and replace that steering wheel before posting any interior pictures; it hurts to look at it.

i've never seen door panel color combo like that one has. wonder if it's original.

click here for my writeup on replacing these bushings:

http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,50/page,viewtopic/t,283064/highlight,/

and this thread preceded the above thread:

http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,50/page,viewtopic/t,282943/highlight,/

click here for my writeup on replacing these bushings:

http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,50/page,viewtopic/t,283064/highlight,/

i repaired a crack in my subframe and posted the following information about a year ago:

I recently reinforced two cracked subframes by welding a small metal plate approximately 1/8inch thick as shown in the first photo. I used a small jigsaw to rough out the piece then molded it with a ball pien hammer and file.

As it took approximately 30 years (and 150K miles or more) for the crack to grow approximately 3/8 inch I considered the stresses low. This plate transmits the bending stress as shear loading across the newly placed weld bead.

Note: the engine mount was originally fabricated from a steel stamping. The edges were not chamfered (beveled) and thus consisted of a rather sharp edge which is VERY suseptible to crack initiation and subsequent crack growth.

If you have the opportunity I strongly recommend that you take a file or stone (sandpaper will work too) to the edge of the engine mount and lightly dress the edge to remove the burr. IF and I stress IF a crack hasn't initiated, this will serve to extend the cycles to crack initiation.

i've attached the following two photos which show the difference between a close ratio gearing next to the standard pitch gearing.

just in case you were curious.

these are the only differences between the two steering boxes

all the 02's i've ever towed, get towed by the front wheels. with enough rope and imagination, you can secure the steering wheel just fine.

alot easier than climbing under it to undo driveshaft.

the jealous switch will only be activated if you reveal additional information to the effect that this batch was found in a dumpster or bought for less than 5 quid.

or is merely the first batch of NOS parts found in a barn owned by a recently deceased 02 fan whose widow wants all that CRAP gone as soon as possible.

details?

whet our vicarious pleasures

was this car, by chance, the one on Craigslist in Oakland? with the rust on the trunk and wonderfull black-plate license plates?

those early cars are special. congrats on where ever it came from.