jerry

i lived nearby for 6 years. that's a suburb west of indy. typically, carmel (pronounced Karmill) and zionsville are the 'to-go' school districts for kids.

i never heard anything BAD about plainsfield schools. didn't hear anything good either.

whatcha got up your sleeve?

my 68 1600 was originally Turf according to mobile tradition, but i believe it was resprayed Agave. at least that's what the color sticker (next to the VIN plate) says. i suppose i won't be able to verify that until i remove the dash sometime in the future.

i'm thinking Agave and Turf are very close anyways.

btw, why anyone would consider Siennabraun is beyond me. it just aint right. ditto on schwartz. just my unsolicited opinion.

i do agree with you. i like the look of the 6-fuse cars so much more. and the absence of side markers and all-aluminum look grills (of 1600's) even better.

that's not a bad price. i've got my own box waiting. what you've shown would likely cost me $75 in an unmarked envelope placed discretely on the foreman's desk by the shipping dock.

sorting it out is a small treat and being able to pull clean bits out of the drawers for reassembly is an even nicer treat. i tend to kit clean parts into little bags as i disassemble dirty items to be tossed in the plating box. makes it so much easier to put back together later when i've forgotten whether or not a spring washer is used or the length of bolt needed, etc.

this is the same car that was pulled off ebay about a month ago the day the auction was about to end. it was holding steady at about $500 when the seller probably got seller's remorse (it was a non-reserve auction).

if it were local i'd have bid on it, but transportation fees...

i suppose if someone was assembling a collection of all the 02 colors, then, maybe.

the color does kind of grow on me, just like ceylon. the new owners cleaned it up quite a bit.

fortunately, you were able to find another at a 'reasonable-like' replacement fee.

look at what i had been watching recently, for my future ti-clone:

http://cgi.ebay.de/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=009&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=190062282224&rd=1,1

words escape me on how THAT could command such a high price. anyone able to translate the original words on the letter?

in case it's not coming up on clicking, the link is to the german ebay listing of an original 02ti VIN tag and i think the original sales receipt. that's all. and the tag is ratty looking too. end price: north of $600 dead presidents.

elbow grease, my friend

best working stuff available. and a scotchbrite pad (though they contain carbide particles so exercise care). 000 steel wool is safer.

you could try sandblasting IF you yourself are at the controls and set pressure under 25psi otherwise you'll probably eat through the finish. no, you won't damage the underlying metal even at higher pressures.

If your current squeegee is the plastic/fuzzy strip as described below, you can probably pull it out without having to remove the trim. In that case, proceed as below:

The only new ones available are plastic with a fuzzy insert glued to one side.

Be slow and methodical, and DON'T BEND THE TRIM! A new piece is $130 from BMW!

mike

i was told recently that this squeegee is NLA. anyone have a part number for me? i need several.

i had similar issues with my 75 02 when i got it. i discovered that nothing was broken, just years of benign neglect take their toll.

my solution was to disassemble one door at a time, keeping the other door untouched, for reference.

the white grease in the window tracks dries out and becomes useless. additionally, the plastic roller on the window regulator arm gets loose from wear and/or rusty.

give yourself a saturday afternoon to disassemble, clean in mineral spirits, grease with white lithium grease, and reassemble. you might as well clean the lock assemblies too.

i did not replace anything and i am now able to roll the windows with ease.

yes, your thoughts are correct. you do not bend the tabs apart. the 'notch' merely provides a seat for the little bend in the spring. the spring needs to be behind that split tab.

it's a bit of a pain to install, but i've had sucess by installing one end of the spring into the hole in the brake shoe, then get the little bend behind the notch that you describe, then take two screw drivers; one to secure the little bend to the notch and the other to wedge the free end into the remaining hole in the other brake shoe. it works, but takes alittle patience. if you have a hooked seal puller you can try using that too.

the trim pieces are installed with aluminum rivets. i will be doing this in the near future myself. i've been considering using a mastic-like sealer between the aluminum trim and sheetmetal just to keep moisture away, as i've seen many cars with rust seeping out from under there.

i do recall when i installed new 1/4 gaskets a decade ago that i had a heck of a time inserting it in the groove. as i recall, it was very unpleasant.

Depends upon the extent of rot, IMO. I just finished patching the floor using 16-gauge sheet steel. It took time to cut/bend/shape/weld/grind, but it would have been overkill to replace the entire floor.

Randy, that is some good looking sheet metal work. i can appreciate the time it took to make it look seamless. was there a tinsmith in your lineage, years ago?

the original 02 headlights are an odd thing for me. currently, i drive to work while still dark. the first part of my journey is practically devoid of cars for about 5-6 miles at that time of morning.

i have NEVER considered my stock headlights to be inadequate. they seem to illuminate the road sufficiently, and i'm able to see the occasional deer in the road with sufficient warning (i don't speed around corners for this very reason). i'm typically driving faster than the typical SUV driver, though.

however, when i'm surrounded by other cars on the freeway with their brighter lights, it almost appears that i have NO HEADLIGHTS. yet i can still see sufficiently whether it's from my own lights or the other driver's ridiculously bright 'search n rescue' lights.

i don't know, i'm thinking all this brighter lights swapping is perhaps more to 'keep up with the jones'. i'm amazed sometimes that those lights are even legal. there are times i'd like to shine a spotlight out my rear window just to get even.

hey gazanik,

just in case you did not understand how this FAQ board is organized,

there's a FOR SALE section more suitable for listings like this.

yea, picky, i know, but just imagine if every purveyor of parts started filling this section of the FORUM with similar posts.

slavs, i appreciate your discussion on this topic. there are a lot of threads on how to make a snorting, monster engine but it's nice to hear the perspective on how these cars can behave in stock configuration.

because of threads such as this i am looking forward to trying out the single barrel solex carb that the PO fortunately saved when he converted to weber after the engine rebuild. i resisted 'upgrading' to bilstien struts and installed the new Boge struts that were in the trunk when i bought this car.

the only upgrades i plan are Crane ignition, 5spd and battery relocation.

i don't recall any shifting differnce between the 5spd and 4spd, btw but i will try to compare when i get the opportunity.

my one concern is that the PO mentioned he installed a mildly upgraded cam during the rebuild (i'm guessing 284, perhaps). will the single-barrel solex be able to keep up with that?

thanks for the offer on the socket. i too fabbed one already.

Found out from Mobile Tradition that my 1600 was born on April 16, 1968, so I plan on getting her back on the road looking decently nice by her 40th b-day.

I need to start a project blog already...

Alan

hey, your's is close to my 1602. i got the following from MT

"The BMW 1600 US VIN 1564726 was manufactured on April 9th, 1968 and

delivered on April 19th, 1968 to the BMW importer Hoffman Motors Corp. in

New York City. The original colour was Turf, paint code 073."

what's your VIN? they may have gone down the assembly line together.

mine spent a large portion of its life in Oakland, btw. it's gonna be my spoiled 1600ti-clone someday.

thanks, this is what i needed to read.

i've got two kits on their way.

i'll be reinstalling my motor and transmission in the near future and would like to ensure that it does not leak transmission fluid all over my newly cleaned underbody.

has anyone here ever rehabbed a transmission (4 or 5spd) at home?

i'm wondering if this is doable by a "gifted orangutan" or do i need to be higher up on the evolutionary tree?

i'll be installing a 5spd and don't have a manual for it. any special tools other than the thin-walled socket needed to loosen the output flange bolt?

anyone have the p/n's needed for a general refresh?

my intent is not to rebuild this unit, just seal it up assuming it would need it.

Wow! I'm impressed. How long did the whole ordeal take? ... really?

okay, the real answer. that's hard to answer IF you are asking about acquiring and modifying the tools. (approximately one afternoon).

however, once i sorted that out, each bushing took about 5-10 minutes to futz with and they were done. i wanted to do a second set while i was at it but didn't have the inner bushings on hand.

i would assume that given the suggestions listed, the next person trying this could minimize the up front effort and get right to work in short order.

well worth the effort as new control arms are over $100/ea whereas the bushings are about $40/set give or take. and the fixtures can be had for about $10.

folks, a big hearty thanks to Pinepig and Zenon (and another FAQer whom i've forgotton, who i took the plumbing fitting idea).

anyhow, these bushings have been installed, and with the proper setup and tips offered, this job is very much doable and rather rewarding.

the key was Pinepig's use of bailing wire to wrap the rubber bushing. i used the wire that is made to tie rebar for cement forms; commonly available and cheap.

cut off about 18 inches or so and wrap around the center portion of the bushing. it does not have to be perfect nor necessarily tight (see photo).

assemble a nice pulling tool. i saw a fellow FAQer's use of galvanized pipe and copied it. i ground to small scallops for clearance as shown (see photo). these allow it to seat squarely on the Control Arm (don't want an akward angle to add to the effort). buy a handful of hardened washers and a couple spare nuts.

i took Zenon's comment to heart, not to apply load to the rubber. i accomplished this by salvaging the center tube from the old bushing. use a hacksaw to slice it lengthwise in 2 places. you will still need to pry it off. as Zenon said earlier, these things are tough and can take the abuse. you'll notice that i still have residual rubber on my tube.

the setup should be self evident from the photos. as the bushing is pulled into the hole merely pull the wire one wrap at a time to clear it.

IT WORKS and the effort is minimal. i was able to use my wimpy all-thread rod without fear of pulling the threads apart or mashing the washers. this was tremendous difference from my earlier effort.

pull the bushing past the spot you think it needs to go so that you can properly seat the outer flange. you can adjust the final position of the bushing by reversing the tool and pulling in the opposite direction till it aligns as you want it.

That's all there is to it. Very rewarding and a much less costly alternative to replaceing the entire control arm.

Addendum (3/15/10) (I am unable to upload my photos for some reason)

I found using an ACME threaded rod and a thrust bearing to significantly ease the effort of installing the bushing. These can be purchased from McMaster-Carr.

P/N 93410A120 6ft 1/2-10 ACME threaded rod $37.59

P/N 94815A107 ACME HEX NUT 1/2-10 $2.44/ea Buy 4

you'll only need a 12 inch section of the rod. (the ACME rod is merely a suggestion)

apply grease to the threads to prevent galling of the nut while tightening (the applied loading is quite high)

Also, I strongly advise the use of Silicone grease (not petroleum grease). Dow Corning makes some for labratory glassware. the glycerine is not nearly as effective. Liquid Soap has been suggested but i have not tried it.

Mike Macartney's book, BMW 02 Restoration Guide

is a readible book with the info you seek.

i bought my copy used on Amazon.com

you can also find it on ePay

that'll get you what you're asking for.

there's a ton of free info on the internet, btw

Well think about how dry ice will work on the plastic bag. it will freeze the plastic and on the first hit break a hole in the bag.

Sam

not necessarily.

i broke the dry ice slabs into smaller chunks by hitting it with a rubber mallet on a cement floor while it was contained within a regular bag. granted, i wouldn't be able to hold water in the bag after this treatment, but the bag withstood the pounding suitably for what i needed it for. and the plastic bag did not embrittle to the point of shattering. i think you'd need liquid nitrogen temperatures for that to happen.

transferring the broken pieces into a trash bag afterwards sounds like a great way to keep the dry ice contained. only issue is that you are sacrificing a little bit on conduction efficiency, but probably trivial with the flimsy trash bags out there.

this would also allow you to cover up the dry ice with your finest linens and down comforter (to hold the cold), guilt-free without contamination, and your 'significant other' would never have to know.

if you don't want to mess with dry ice bits mixed with tar scraps merely let the whole mixture evaporate. you'll be left with only the detrious to clean up. no dry ice.

Heavy and messy... aren't they usually filled with auto trans fluid???

this is relevant to my needs. i will actually be going in the opposite direction of installing an auto trans into a working longblock.

do i fill the torque converter with fluid before assembly or is it filled from the dipstick spout when it's all bolted in and installed in the car?

If you go with dry ice do so with lots of ventilation. Lots of CO2 in a confined space won't be good for your health.....

i think you MAY be confusing dry ice (carbon dioxide) with carbon monoxide which is very dangerous. dry ice is/was commonly used in dance houses and stages for the smoky effect.

it WILL, however attract mosquitoes if they're nearby.

ASK ME HOW I KNOW.

i'm also confused with the earlier post describing how messy it is...

i don't get it. was not my experience. really

Edit: I stand corrected, come to think of it, i do recall getting a slight headache after dealing with this. that memory must have been suppressed by the more irratating memory of the mosquitoes.

now that sounds like a clever solution. i can't wait to try it. brilliant indeed. thanks