Replacing front struts this weekend

[Biemenstien]

I will be replacing struts and shocks this weekend. I have researched the archives and have found some good information.

Does anybody have any words of wisdom or pictorial project blogs they would like to add before I jump in?

Looks like a pretty straight forward job but I know there are always tricks and tips from those who have been in those waters.

Thanks.

[Husker2002]

I am also performing some front strut/spring removal this weekend and also posted a question asking for tips and tricks. I will be watching your post for any responses and good luck to you sir!!

As with you, I searched the many posts and really didn't find what I was looking for....so I just decided to ask.

[OC2002]

Sorry for jumping in on this but i dont wanna start a new post about the same stuff. When i removed the struts liquid poured out, it was reddish. is there supposed to be liquid ?

[OriginalOwner]

I've replaced struts a few times, the proverbial piece of cake, very straightforward. Last time I did it, it took about 1 hour to remove the strut, disassemble to get the old shock absorber out, install new shock absorber and reassemble, then install strut back into the car.

One MUST-DO: be sure to use lock wire on the three lower bolts attaching the strut tube to the steering arm. They have holes in the head, that's for lockwire.

OC2002 ... the reddish fluid (transmission fluid perhaps??), that is in there simply to prevent the shock absorber tube from rusting & sticking to the inside of the strut tube. I use oil, works the same.

(p.s. I had a shock absorber tube rust into the strut. If you'd like to hear the long story of that, and how I fixed it, feel free to PM me).

Cheers,

Carl

[Chris_B]

Not entirely sure what your question is. but you should know that it is possible to remove the struts from the car without disassembling them. Basically, you just have to remove the sway bar links, detach the struts from the body and push down on the control arms. You should be able to clear the tops of the struts from the fender tops and move them out. Then, you can use a spring compressor to compress the spring and remove the strut bearing.

Don't be so stupid as to try and remove the strut bearing without compressing the spring after the spring is out of the body mounting, before some fool come around here and want to kill you or me... (paraphrase from Lynyrd Skynyrd).

[Biemenstien]

Yep. In the words of Bill Williams "You might encounter some poo inside the strut tube. Many stories on why it is there. No need to replace".

You might take a look at the forum search under "Strut replacement " I found some great older posts by the Master Bill Williams dated back in 2006 and 2009 "Suspension rehab (*UNDER CONSTRUCTION )" great pics and step by step instruction.

Cd also has some good diagrams marked up with notes.

Good luck.

[cyclopticgaze]

I did a complete teardown and rehab of my front suspension. Your weekend project will be much easier (and shorter!), but you might find my experience useful:

http://www.cyclopticgaze.com/2002/26front_rebuild.html

[Biemenstien]

Great post.

Nice to have the pictures and see some of the potential pit falls during the process.

Thanks for posting.

[Guest_anonymous]

loosen but don't remove upper strut mount center nut with the car on the ground makes it much easier to loosen, as well do not fully tighten and torque same nut until car is on the ground. Weather or not the strut has a D, allen or hex it is easy to strip it is worth considering some type of pass through tool like an oxygen sensor socket...

[mike472]

Use an impact gun on that top strut nut. It'll spin right off. Loosen control arm bolts so the control arms push down nice and easy and detach calipers and hang them so you don't stretch your brake lines. Not a bad time to change those rubber lines while your in there.

[Biemenstien]

Good advice.

Yep. I already loosened the strut nuts with the ol' HILTI SIW18T impact, 340 ft. Lbs. of ground pounding torque.

I like the idea of removing the calipers instead of the brake lines, saves bleeding later, I just replaced all the rubber and hard lines so it will be nice to keep the system closed.

Thanks

[Nathan]

The fluid in the strut is oil that was used to keep the shocks cool. This is not needed if you are replacing shocks with new Bilsteins. A small amount of oil makes sense so the inside of the strut is protected from rust.

Do not forget the washer on the underside of the upper strut bearing when replacing the shocks. This is essential for proper stearing.

[Cupid]

Old, I know...but, this is good advice. Thanks.

[tomjensen]

I rebuilt my entire front end. I didn’t have an impact gun so I took it to a shop and it came back in parts. It’s all back together but something must be binding. When I place the car on jack stands the steering wheel is extremely difficult to turn. I’ve loosened everything in the steering linkage and it’s stiff. I’m guessing the strut assembly. I followed this diagram. I read somewhere there is an oversized washer for each side but all four washers are the same size except for the two cupped washers. Any ideas?


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[tomjensen]

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