engine and drivetrain Weber Dgav Rebuild

[dwilme]

Hi All,

 

I just bought a 1974 02 with weber dgv carb (32/36) with water choke -dgav. It starts great when cold with a quick double tap of the accelerator.

 

However, after it runs for 10mins or so it doesn't want to start without some trickery (3-5secs cranking with no gas pedal movement, then with 1/3-1/2 pedal depression it starts). Even that isn't predictable.

 

When I look in the carb it's full of gas. Frequently after driving it has a strong smell of gas. The carb looks pretty dirty and seems to have soaked lower gasket and some leakage around the throttle linkage. I have relocated the fuel hoses (off intake manifold) as I figured the fuel was getting too hot.

 

- Is the rebuild pretty easy using part #93323705? Anyone have a video or pic of the step by step?

- Which jets can I clean with the carb still hooked up as normal? 

- There isn't a spacer between the manifold and carb (should it have one?)

- There is also some coolant around the plate (end cap) on the intake manifold directly below the carb base plate. What's behind that plate? Is coolant going to gush out if I remove it? Where do I get a proper replacement, it looks like most guys just make a cover out of scrap metal.  

- If I need a fuel pressure regulator, what's the best location for it and are there any you can recommend?

- I've also heard that I should just get an electric choke and fuel pump. Thoughts?

 

I just want this to predictably fire up whether hot or cold. Thanks for all your help and sorry if the above is wordy, I have limited experience with carbs.

[baller908790]

- Is the rebuild pretty easy using part #93323705? Anyone have a video or pic of the step by step? Use this rebuild kit  -   http://www.piercemanifolds.com/product_p/92.3237.05%20major.htm I posted a link to a step by step

 

- Which jets can I clean with the carb still hooked up as normal? Just rebuild it it is very easy

- There isn't a spacer between the manifold and carb (should it have one?) Use the one supplied with the kit that I linked too

- There is also some coolant around the plate (end cap) on the intake manifold directly below the carb base plate. What's behind that plate? Is coolant going to gush out if I remove it? Where do I get a proper replacement, it looks like most guys just make a cover out of scrap metal.  Idk what this is

- If I need a fuel pressure regulator, what's the best location for it and are there any you can recommend? Do you have the stock fuel pump? If so no regulator needed. 

- I've also heard that I should just get an electric choke and fuel pump. Thoughts? I have been running water chock and its fine. 

Edited May 14, 2013 by baller908790

[Slightly Larger Roundies]

Check out this site:

http://www.mk3supra.org/topic/561-guide-rebuilding-a-weber-3236-dgav-carb/

It gives step by step instructions with LOTS of detailed photos.

I just rebuit my old 32/36 and it was pretty easy. Order what you need form Pierce Manifolds:

http://www.piercemanifolds.com/

[rms_sandiego]

Check out http://www.02again.com/?page_id=56

 

02 again makes a nice block off plate for the end of the manifold. Orginally there was smog stuff that hung off of there.

Edited May 14, 2013 by Rob S

[dwilme]

Baller Robs Ben, 

 

I'm amazed! Thank you. I'm going to order the kit and plate. The link to the 32/36 rebuild is super detailed. I feel really good about rebuilding the carb now. I'll post my progress. Taking the car out tonight was great but some missing and one backfire under acceleration while cold. I gotta get at that carb and plugs. 

 

Thanks again. Glad I joined the group. 

[baller908790]

Did you check the ignition. Someone on here has a 

saying that 90% of your carb problems are in the 

ignition. But if you say it is leaking you might as well

put new gaskets in it. Think about re-jetting it with 

C.d's "prescription" found in the faqs.

[dwilme]

I'm planning on getting new plugs with the carb rebuild kit and maybe a rotor. Do you know where I should start in trouble shooting the ignition?

The inside if the distributer, under the cap, looked really dusty. I couldn't tell if it has pertronix, don't know what I'm looking for. If its a points and confessor then they are really dirty.

[TobyB]

 

- There is also some coolant around the plate (end cap) on the intake manifold directly below the carb base plate. What's behind that plate? Is coolant going to gush out if I remove it? Where do I get a proper replacement, it looks like most guys just make a cover out of scrap metal.  

 

There IS coolant in the cast- in passages in the base of the manifold,

but the plate on the side of it (as in the pic) doesn't connect to that.  So yes, you can pull it.

 

There IS a Cannon manifold out there that has the early base plate that's removable, and that DOES have coolant circulating through it.

On the odd chance you have one of those, you need the gasket for the early single- barrel car.  Or RTV works just fine.

 

If you really do have coolant present there, something is really wrong.  But it's pretty normal, if your carb's misbehaving and the seal isn't

all that good, to have a bit of fuel seepage.  Fuel- resistant RTV is the best way to seal that plate.

 

As to the carb rebuild, I agree- pull it, clean it completely and blow out all the passages, and change all the rubber parts

(especially the power valve diaphragm) and needle (float) valve.  Then make SURE the float isn't leaking and that the

float level's set properly.  Yes, you can completely rejet it mounted to the motor, but you really need to have it off to get all the

gunk out of it.  I like a good dunk in cleaner,  but that stuff is nasty.  Once that's done, no, you'll never need to dismount it again.

 

hth

 

t

[dwilme]

Thanks again for more feedback. I'm picking up the carb rebuild today. I posted a few pics of my set up if you're intrested. I think it's just the stock manifold. Maybe a header, intake, and cam next year

 

You can see the leakage (carb base, note color of leakage) and the makeshift plate I've been talking about(can't see bottom but that is where the green fluid was).

 

The rotor is dusty and some signs of wear I think. Is this standard points and condenser?

 

 

The cap is worn at the top of the connections. Weird right?

 

 

Let me know what you think.