adjusting clutch pedal ?

[ryanOC]

is there anything i can adjust with the clutch pedal to make the friction point engage when the pedal isn't so close to the floor ?

right now my pedal basically needs to be hitting the floor before i can shift gears, and it's kind of annoying. it's also caused me to accidentally grind gears a tiny bit a few times now.

[winstontj]

is there anything i can adjust with the clutch pedal to make the friction point engage when the pedal isn't so close to the floor ?

right now my pedal basically needs to be hitting the floor before i can shift gears, and it's kind of annoying. it's also caused me to accidentally grind gears a tiny bit a few times now.

Look a little further down... I posted this same thing (sortof) a few days ago. There is an adjustment in the pedal box, bleed your clutch system, make sure the proper step is on the flywheel surface and shim between the flywheel and crank the amount the machine shop had to take off to resurface. Finally you can go with a thicker TO bearing or put a weld bead on the TO bearing release arm. Start with the simple & work your way down the list.... personally I'm going to pray that I can adjust the pedal because it's gonna be a PITA to pull the transmission... again!

Good luck!

[Zenon]

is there anything i can adjust with the clutch pedal to make the friction point engage when the pedal isn't so close to the floor ?

right now my pedal basically needs to be hitting the floor before i can shift gears, and it's kind of annoying. it's also caused me to accidentally grind gears a tiny bit a few times now.

Where is the clutch pedal sitting at rest? The spec for pedal travel is 6.57"-6.77" - basically it should rest about even with the brake pedal.

To adjust it, you vary the length of the pushrod at the clutch master cylinder inside the pedal box. Loosen the pushrod locknut and turn the fat part of the pushrod - no need to disconnnect the pushrod from the pedal.

Often, the locknut comes undone (or is left loose) and ever so gradually the pushrod gets shorter as the pedal is operated until one day you cannot shift any more.

This job is a major PITA in a car with one-piece molded carpet. ;-)

regards,

Zenon

[Mike Self]

pushrod--the piece that connects the slave cylinder to the clutch throwout bearing withdrawal fork...This was eliminated in March, 1969, so it's the early cars only. Pedal height adjustment is as posted--at the clutch M/C pushrod.

cheers

mike

[ryanOC]

damn that was easy!

i didn't even need tools to adjust it, only needed a hand. will take a look later to make sure it doesn't self adjust.

now it feels a ton better when shifting gears. how the hell did i drive around this long without having adjusted it before!!

[AlfaBMWGuy]

I wanted to bump this 15 year old thread because it was the key to me finally getting my clutch engagement point properly set on my '74 tii I bought two months ago.  I knew I needed to adjust the pushrod length, but I still have the original molded carpets and they are just in too nice of condition overall to consider replacing for a few more years.  Even once I got the under dash panels off and removed the console, the task of pulling back the carpet to expose the pedal box looked daunting and way out of proportion for the amount of effort for such a simple adjustment to the MC.

 

I figured out that there was just enough space for me to get to the bits needed for the clutch MC, the lock nut and the collar for adjusting the pushrod length, in the channel in the carpet needed for clutch pedal travel.  In my case, by peeking into the pedal box with a flashlight, I found that the collar had separated from the lock nut by about 1 cm along the threaded screw and this was the reason for my high clutch engagement point.  The collar was frozen so that I couldn't turn it with my fingers initially, but some pliers freed it up and then I was able to turn the collar with my fingers aided by pushing in the clutch pedal a bit to reduce resistance.  I snugged up the collar back against the lock nut, which was right near the point where the clutch pedal face was in the same plane as the brake pedal.

 

A test drive confirmed the clutch engagement point was what it should have been all along making it much more pleasant to drive.  Even if the collar and lock nut separate again (I suspect it gradually went out of adjustment over years and the previous owner never noticed because it was so gradual and just immediately obvious to someone used to driving other '02s), at least I now know the trick.  Finally, note that my "trick" of getting around pulling up molded carpet may not work if you have really fresh carpet around the pedal box area (mine was already a bit ratty in that area so I wasn't too concerned with any additional stretching from my efforts).  Same goes for the foam pedal box cover.  If you want to preserve a pristine cover, you may not be able to make this adjustment without pulling back the molded carpet.  But, I just wanted to get this out there that it's not always absolutely necessary to pull back the carpet to make this pushrod length adjustment.  Before the posts above in this thread, I also thought it was necessary to disengage the clutch pedal completely from the MC to adjust the length, but that not being required is also key to making this adjustment without pulling back molded carpets.

 

-Gary

Edited October 12, 2021 by AlfaBMWGuy

[AustrianVespaGuy]

While we're here necroing this 2006 thread. . . anyone know what happened to @Zenon? The guy still has his site up with a treasure trove how-tos on his early EFI stuff which is awesome.  Hope he's still around and enjoying his 2002!